The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 177

Quote:

Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy 

Thanks Chris. Much appreciated. The back waistband will definitely be lowered.

How's this? Same issue? Or much better, with the back needing to be lowered so it can be raised up without cutting into my ass?

I've got prominent calves.

I apologize for the location. LOL

toilet and towel holder in the background = beaucoup bonus points

Quote:

Originally Posted by Despos 


Half canvassed means the other half is fused.

When the jacket is unbuttoned and hanging freely, how much space is there between the edges of the jacket? How much shirt can you see between the two fronts at the buttoning point?

The backs are long on both jackets. The jackets aren't made for your erect posture.

Sorry for the late reply. Here's a pic. Thanks for your input

I have run across some incredible deals at Lands End for donegals and flannels. 

I have a pair of slacks in my sights but, in the matching blazer, they only have either 44L or a 48L for me to choose from. I am a perfect 46L. 

Of course, with either, I'll need some deep tailoring. With most everything I've purchased from LE (even from their tailored line) in a 46L I've had to get taken in along the body to create the correct silhouette. 

My question: Considering the 46L has to always be taken in along the body, I'm leaning toward purchasing the 44L and having my tailor adjust out vs. getting the 48L and having him to work with the excess (especially where the sleeve joins the body) that I've seen go so wrong. Do you think that is a wise choice? 

TIA

Really really need this Tux to work, but just not loving it after having someone take some pictures. Obviously brand new so still need a good tailor  to do the sleeves and more (I see your not too far from me OTCtailor). Any help/suggestions would be great.

It is an Isaia Gregory 36R Drop 8 so sizing down is not an option. I was worried it is also a tad on the long side (about 1/2" longer then I like my suits to measure). I folded the right hand cuff up which prob wasnt the best idea.

THANKS!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redlinemac 

I have run across some incredible deals at Lands End for donegals and flannels. 

 

I have a pair of slacks in my sights but, in the matching blazer, they only have either 44L or a 48L for me to choose from. I am a perfect 46L. 

 

Of course, with either, I'll need some deep tailoring. With most everything I've purchased from LE (even from their tailored line) in a 46L I've had to get taken in along the body to create the correct silhouette. 

 

My question: Considering the 46L has to always be taken in along the body, I'm leaning toward purchasing the 44L and having my tailor adjust out vs. getting the 48L and having him to work with the excess (especially where the sleeve joins the body) that I've seen go so wrong. Do you think that is a wise choice? 

 

TIA

The risk is in the shoulders, chest, and back. If you go a size down, the body may fit you well with minimal alterations, but the chest and back could be tight creating pull lines and shoulder divots. Also, the point to point on the shoulders could be a tad to narrow. The thing to do is get measurements from lands end. That is, shoulder to shoulder, pit to pit, etc and guage it off a jacket that already fits you well. Def don't wanna go a size up because the expense in tailoring with the result given is stupid. You might as well just wait until you can find it in your actual size even if it means purchasing at full price. There are always hidden costs to poor fit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by katabatic 

That looks like you'd be better served by a 36S, if one's available.

Agreed, but never going to happen. The luck to find a high quality 36R that sorta fits (at least in the shoulders) at a discount price took over 2 years. Need to make this one work if I can even if that means chopping off a 1/2" or so from the bottom unless it will totally throw off the balance of the jacket/pockets/etc

Here are 2 M2M suits made for me by Hiras Tailors freshly pressed.  The top one is Black and the lower one Charcoal Grey.  I think both were cut the same. The Hiras tailor is coming to our area in 2 weeks and I have an appointment with him to inspect the fit.  I like how both suits fit and how they feel on me. The Black fabric is Dormeuil Amadeus, has a pleasing sheen, I am not sure about the charcoal but the cost was lower so i am thinking it is of lesser quality. My right arm is about 1/2inch longer than the left and the length of the right sleeve is exactly 1/2 inch longer so they got that right.  The shirt is off the rack, 16 1/2neck 34-35in sleeve so it is not fitted and I am sure the sleeves are too long.  I may get some M2M shirts at the next appointment.  To me, the front view looks great except for a little tension on the upper button on both suits. The measurements were made in late November and I have gained an inch due to holiday over feeding but the inch should be gone soon so this should resolve. On the back view there appears to be excess fabric on the sleeve in the triceps area and in the back in the lats area. I'm not sure if this can be fixed or needs to be fixed. My posture may be more miltary than relaxed.  The length of the jacket is also a question. In the lateral view on each suit I am cupping my hands to show the relation to my hands.The length is right at the cupping of the hands. There was a issue with the hemline stitch being quite visable on the Charcoal suit (see post #27 on Hiras Fashion Affilliate Thread for detailed pictures) and Hiras has offered to fix this at no cost. I asked for a full break on the trousers and I think they got this right.   These pictures were made with a Sony DSC-RX100 mounted on a tripod aimed at the bottom of the rib cage. The pictures were formatted with Photoshop Elements 11 and lightened to show more detail. Thanks for your thoughts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brianpore 

Really really need this Tux to work, but just not loving it after having someone take some pictures. Obviously brand new so still need a good tailor  to do the sleeves and more (I see your not too far from me OTCtailor). Any help/suggestions would be great.

 

It is an Isaia Gregory 36R Drop 8 so sizing down is not an option. I was worried it is also a tad on the long side (about 1/2" longer then I like my suits to measure). I folded the right hand cuff up which prob wasnt the best idea.

 

THANKS!!!!

 

 

 

You're in luck...it's not that bad.

Obviously, the sleeves are very long. Long enough that either a) when shortened you lose the vent or b) it costs more money to piece in fabric to extend the vent up the sleeve. You can also go to the extreme a bit and mess with the sleeve pitch. The back balance of the jacket looks long so the shoulders may just need to be squared from the top. The back/waist can be suppressed and possibly let out a bit in the seat or maybe once the balance is fixed, so will that. No diagonal wrinkles or excess drape in the chest so suppression will give you a nice result.

And last but not least....

shortening the jacket by up to 2" even is possible without seriously messing with the pocket/button balance. To your benefit is the higher single button stance, the jetted pockets, and no vents. Not saying you should shorten that far, but that is your range. Half inch is nothing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brianpore 

Agreed, but never going to happen. The luck to find a high quality 36R that sorta fits (at least in the shoulders) at a discount price took over 2 years. Need to make this one work if I can even if that means chopping off a 1/2" or so from the bottom unless it will totally throw off the balance of the jacket/pockets/etc

36 in anything but a R is not an easy find OTR...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gosroth 

Dear tailors, I have a rather straightforward fit question that has been causing me some serious angst with loss of sleep over the last few days. I know it's silly but the time & money involved is rather significant to me.

 

The story: I had DB suit A made at a local MTO shop. Was reasonably satisfied, and made suit B, with few adjustments based on the experience from A. Then the shop had a blow-out fabric sale with very significant discounts, and I had no less then 3 more DB suits made up based upon the previous suit B.

 

The problem: After placing my order (and blowing most of this years clothing budget in the first week of January), I started to feel that among the tweaks I made to suit B, I had button stance lowered too much (The strange thing is that I felt perfectly happy with the lowered button stance, before before placing the order for 3 more, so it might simply be some kind post-purchase worrying on my part).

 

It's too late change the order at the factory, so my questions are:

 

1. How bad is the low button stance on suit B?

2. How hard and expensive is it to have the incomming suits altered after delivery (is it possible to close up two front button holes, move all six buttons upwards, and add one internal button hole?). The suits are delivered with a spare buttons and a piece of the cloth they are made with, if that helps. Is there any other way to alter it to bring the suit upwards so to speak, make it sit 1-2 cm higher, a little more like suit A?

 

 

Suit A:

 

 

 

 

Suit B:

 

 

 

 

Please don't trouble yourself with judgments apart from the button stance as the pictures are much too poor for that (and I'm not wearing the pants).

I'd truly grateful for your assistance, as having spent significant cash on 3 suits that will might end up badly is causing me some serious angst. 

Or maybe I'm just being silly?

The difference in button stance doesn't appear to be that significant. Patching up those buttonholes and making new ones a cm higher will cost you $$$. Also, the question is whether it will affect the crossover point/roll line of the lapel. Owning a few DB's myself with varying heights of button stance, my personal suggestion is wear it without the bottom button secured thus visually increasing the height of the button stance. Overall, the proportions are not off on either. The higher stance on suit A looks modern. The slightly lowered stance on B looks classic although the position of the gorge in relation to the stance may attract the attention of a better trained eye.

All in all, I think you can start counting sheep again 

Hello Tailors, thank you for your help in previous posts. This is my first BB suit, had it altered twice now by the in-store tailor and looking for additional feedback. The jacket from the sides and rear view has many wrinkles. In response to my concerns posed over the wrinkling between the shoulder blades, and above the gluteal area, the tailor pressed the jacket, flipped the collar up and down while I was wearing it and indeed, many of the wrinkles did disappear, though when trying it on under normal circumstances, as is seen below, many are there. In response to feedback from previous posts, I've taken it home to get better pics and to bring to another tailor. I welcome feedback regarding fit, alterations, and also if anyone might comment whether cardelino might be a good place to have the adjustments made. I have been using LNC, but for more complex alterations of a jacket, I'm not sure if he is ok.

Also, there is a bump along the line of the right shoulder, which I've circled in red. The tailor in the store seem to think it was 'nothing,' not sure if it is anything worth addressing.

As an aside looking at these pics I may try for a more tightly fitting shirt, I didn't realize the degree to which this shirt billows out.

Thank you very much.