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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 176

post #2626 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by couture-auction View Post

Hi,

 

I am new to the forum and posted these fit pics a several days ago but didn't get any reply, so maybe they just go lost in the shuffle.

 

I'm looking for advise on how to clean up the back of this jacket. This is a RTW canvased suit. My tailor is saying he needs to take in some fabric behind the arms to remove the vertical and diagonal lines. Is this correct or is this less and issue of too much fabric and more a matter of compensating for the slope of my shoulders? In that case would it be best to take in some material from the back, at the top of the shoulders? I also want to get rid of the fold in front of the arm on the chest, is this simply a matter of taking in some fabric at the armhole?

 

(I am also having the sleeve pitch corrected on the left arm and a little on the right)

 

Any help you could provide would be wonderful. If you need different photos let me know what you would like to see and I'll take them.

 

Thank you

 

 

 

700

 

Tailors! 

 

Quick question: Why does the jacket look like that in the chest? When I tried the jacket I ordered, on both sides this happened to the chest. The tailor says that it is becuase I asked for it tight (which I doesn't, I think that's why it is made to measure, cause they measure you) but he didn't offer some fix to that problem, instead he blames me. 

post #2627 of 5202
I went to pull the waistband (back) upward and the creases/sagging more or less disappear. That diagnosis was spot on,

However, the back rise began to cut into my ass crack when I did that. This probably means that the back rise HAS to be shortened to eliminate the creases, correct? Moving the braces buttons (in order to hitch the back upward) is not a solution, unless I want the feel of cloth riding up my ass crack?

Any insights would be very much appreciated.

Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Too much material back there. You've got a semi prominent seat it looks like but your pelvis is shifted forward but tilted backward. The cloth is just following you around

The fix might be letting out the seat a little and shortening the back rise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Thank you OTCtailor. That picture of the back (above) isn't me.

My back (THIGH AREA) looks something like this in the picture below.

What's the reason for this?

post #2628 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Great. Is this an easy fix?

I think my body conforms to the picture of the anterior pelvic tllt lordotic back diagram.

Hard to tell based on how you're standing, but ultimately if you are wearing something that doesn't conform to your posture, you'll fight it and it'll fight you.

Those trousers look mtm, bespoke, or maybe thrifted?

messing with the rise on any trouser is the same type of fix..it's just dropping the waistband. It's just about where and how far down you need to drop it. I deal with anterior pelvic tilt as well so sometimes I drop the front of the waistband or it will otherwise collapse creating "droop" (whois the redheaded step-child of "toe", whois the long lost cousin of "wad", whois the grandfather of "sag", whois the patriarch of "bulge"cloud.gif).

It's all fixable, it's just a matter of proper diagnosis. Not being able to see them at multiple angles makes it almost impossible to speculate what is causing the problems.

post #2629 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

First off, these pics aren't bad and should be the bare minimum of what is posted. Just saying...

Also, nice shoes.

The first jacket looks pretty clean. Upon closer inspection, the back balance may be a little long. Worth having it checked.

The pants may need to have the back rise/stride checked to clean them up back there. Total length may be a little long, too.

Second jacket is too tight in waist and seat.

Third jacket is too long in back balance and needs to be cleaned up in the back.

So far, I've seen better results with suitsupply than indochino from other people, indeed.

 

Thank you very much. I have one more question. Today I put on a tie and tried on the first jacket again (the MTM one). I noticed a pretty big collar gap. This is bad, right?

 

 

 

 

 

post #2630 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

I went to pull the waistband (back) upward and the creases/sagging more or less disappear. That diagnosis was spot on,

However, the back rise began to cut into my ass crack when I did that. This probably means that the back rise HAS to be shortened to eliminate the creases, correct? Moving the braces buttons (in order to hitch the back upward) is not a solution, unless I want the feel of cloth riding up my ass crack?

Any insights would be very much appreciated.

Thank you.
 

That's why I also suggested letting out the seat and shortening the back rise. You may potentially have to a) let out the seat b) let out the stride c) shorten back rise. That will kill the wrinkles in the back and make the pants more comfortable. Next step would be slimming the legs if you want a more trim fit.

post #2631 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

 

Tailors! 

 

Quick question: Why does the jacket look like that in the chest? When I tried the jacket I ordered, on both sides this happened to the chest. The tailor says that it is becuase I asked for it tight (which I doesn't, I think that's why it is made to measure, cause they measure you) but he didn't offer some fix to that problem, instead he blames me. 

Those vertical folds are probably the result of shoulder slope and tightness in the blades which causes the material to pull from behind. That crease probably rolls right under your arm. You need better pics to go beyond that with your original question. Probably why no one really suggested anything...?

post #2632 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopyNoob View Post

 

Thank you very much. I have one more question. Today I put on a tie and tried on the first jacket again (the MTM one). I noticed a pretty big collar gap. This is bad, right?

 

 

 

 

 

More than anything it's the type of collar you're wearing. It doesn't look bad at all, but it depends on your style standard.

post #2633 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Thank you OTCtailor. That picture of the back (above) isn't me.

My back (THIGH AREA) looks something like this in the picture below.

What's the reason for this?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
[
/quote]

The issue is the balance of the trouser is out of sync with how you stand, your posture.

The back of the trouser is too high and the out seam of the back part is too crooked. You did try pulling up the back part and could see the wrinkles go away. The adjustment is to lower the waistband along the back part enough to raise the back part of trouser and clean up the wrinkling. You also need to take in the out seam from nothing at the half way point of the knee to the hip to 3/4" at the top of the out seam on the back part to help clean up the wrinkles. You look like you have a low seat so the bottom curve of the seat has to deepened. That will keep the trouser comfortable. A lot of this is possible to correct on this trouser and you benefit from not having back pockets.

I don't like the way the side seam curves to the back at the top of the out seam just below the waistband. The front panel looks too wide compared to the back part but that is another issue.
post #2634 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopyNoob View Post


Thank you very much. I have one more question. Today I put on a tie and tried on the first jacket again (the MTM one). I noticed a pretty big collar gap. This is bad, right?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







Do you know if this is a fused garment. It looks like the chest isn't shaped to curve over your chest and the area between the breakline of the lapel and the armhole is too narrow causing the lapels to bow out ward like ( ) instead of having a straighter line of the lapel like this \ /.
post #2635 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Do you know if this is a fused garment. It looks like the chest isn't shaped to curve over your chest and the area between the breakline of the lapel and the armhole is too narrow causing the lapels to bow out ward like ( ) instead of having a straighter line of the lapel like this \ /.

 

Hi, I'm pretty sure this one is half canvas. Suitsupply doesn't have fused garment as far as I know. I could be wrong though, others who have experienced with SS can chime in.

 

Do you mind taking a look at my previous post #2661, I have full body shots, which might give more insight to your observation. Thanks.

post #2636 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

More than anything it's the type of collar you're wearing. It doesn't look bad at all, but it depends on your style standard.

Thanks, I will try a spread collar shirt.

post #2637 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedBaxter View Post

Hi everybody,

first off: I really appreciate this thread and the time you invest for helping people with less knowledge.

Blessed with few knowledge I had two MTM shirts tailored but am now a little bit unhappy about them. I would love to know whether it is me who is wrong with his opinion or whether it is the sellers that are telling me the "wrong things".

The shirt you see on the pictures has been worn one day. That is how it would look on an afternoon at work.

Which annoys me most is that the fabric is causing waves (I'm sorry, I'm not a native speaker and I hope you still understand what I mean). It just does not fall smoothly as it should, instead the fabric stows up at the chest and waist area. The seller tells me, that the fabric such a good material it has to be washed a couple of times before it falls alright. I just can't believe that. I've chosen one of the best fabrics they had to offer and now I'm stuck with a shirt I have to wash I don't know how many times? Does anybody believe that this is true?

 
The second thring is the wrinkling on the shoulder close to the neck/throat. When first trying on the shirt it had a tendency to have the "neck wrinke" so I asked them to alter the whole area and to remove very much of the surplus fabric that could be found on the back. What do you thing about the wrinkling in that area?

Lastly, what do you think about the back, the amount of fabric still remaining, the amount of fabric at the waists and the overall shirt appearance? I asked for a reasonably slim fitted shirt, but the overall amount of fabric is just way too much, isn't it? I also think the buttons are a catastrophy but they didn't offer any others. Certainly, I will not have anything made there again but for now I have to make the best out of it and am grateful for any advise.

Many thanks!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)















I agree with the maker to wash the shirt before judging the fit. The shirt will settle in a bit.

Changes I would suggest are to make the chest bigger under the arms on the front parts only. 3/4" on each side. That will release the front and help with the diagonal pulling. You can see how the shirt lies flat against the chest from the side view right now. You need more room there. Reduce the waist on the front part
Would reduce the back chest 1/2" at the bottom of the armhole and shape the shirt thru the waist. Would take more out of the back at the waist than the front.
Make the collar 1/2" bigger and I think everything will lie better.

The issue here is measurements tell circumferences but you need more cloth in certain areas and less cloth in others. Measurements don't convey this. When you have something made like this it takes a few tries to figure things out.
post #2638 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopyNoob View Post


Hi, I'm pretty sure this one is half canvas. Suitsupply doesn't have fused garment as far as I know. I could be wrong though, others who have experienced with SS can chime in.

Do you mind taking a look at my previous post #2661, I have full body shots, which might give more insight to your observation. Thanks.

Half canvassed means the other half is fused.

When the jacket is unbuttoned and hanging freely, how much space is there between the edges of the jacket? How much shirt can you see between the two fronts at the buttoning point?

The backs are long on both jackets. The jackets aren't made for your erect posture.
post #2639 of 5202
Thanks Chris. Much appreciated. The back waistband will definitely be lowered.

How's this? Same issue? Or much better, with the back needing to be lowered so it can be raised up without cutting into my ass?

I've got prominent calves.

I apologize for the location. LOL

post #2640 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Thanks Chris. Much appreciated. The back waistband will definitely be lowered.

How's this? Same issue? Or much better, with the back needing to be lowered so it can be raised up without cutting into my ass?

I've got prominent calves.

I apologize for the location. LOL

toilet and towel holder in the background = beaucoup bonus points

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