The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 175

Quote:

Originally Posted by TweedyProf 

Tailors:

 

A question about fit of pants. This effect from the side seems to be common to every pair of trouser I own including higher end trouser makers. Is this problem pervasive with OTR, namely the absence of a nice line in the back. Is it just a matter of posture? For I find that if I lean forward a bit, I can get that straight line. Can this be fixed in OTR pants reasonably simply? And how good must the tailor be to do so?

 

The cuff measurement is 8.25 so not too skinny. I'm a 33 waist. This is a slim fit pant.

 

BTW: I wonder if there is still too much cuff showing or if this is within norm, though on the "forward" side?

 

It is a matter of posture or perhaps weight loss but it can be fixed. First and foremost, is the waist/seat loose? If not, it's probably because the back rise is a little too high and the stride is a little too full. Back rise is fixed by dropping the back part of the waistband slighty to take up the slack. Stride is fixed by slicing open the crotch seam and opening both inseams to the knee then taking in the back part of the inseam only. When the wrinkles are horizontal, the problem is in length. When they're vertical, the problem is in width or stride. When they're diagonal, it's a little bit of both. Your tailor should easily be able to do either of these alterations.

The jacket cuff may be a little high in the forward part of the sleeve. Looks like the cuff is working. Not an easy fix whether dropping whole sleeve length (depending on how those cuffs are sewn up) or dropping only the front part.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SloopyNoob 

Gentlemen, after the failed attempt with Indochino, I went to Suitsupply and tried their MTM program. This is the outcome. Can I get your inputs please? Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is an OTR jacket also from Suitsupply:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last and probably the worst-fitting is an OTR Brooks Brothers jacket. I think the shoulder is more sloped than mine shoulder (forgive my lack of technical terms) Is the jacket fixable?

 

 

 

 

 

First off, these pics aren't bad and should be the bare minimum of what is posted. Just saying...

Also, nice shoes.

The first jacket looks pretty clean. Upon closer inspection, the back balance may be a little long. Worth having it checked.

The pants may need to have the back rise/stride checked to clean them up back there. Total length may be a little long, too.

Second jacket is too tight in waist and seat.

Third jacket is too long in back balance and needs to be cleaned up in the back.

So far, I've seen better results with suitsupply than indochino from other people, indeed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven 


Ted
this is not the worst fitting shirt i have ever seen.
the darts are not an issue.
I use them all the time.
it gives a cleaner look when you want to reduce the fullness.

the sleeves are a touch long and a little full..
there is a problem fitting your shoulders.
this is a very common problem today.
some MTM companies have not adjusted their patterns properly for how young men are built today.
the collar seems fine.
I don't have an answer on what should be done by the vendor.
but again.
I have seen a lot worse!

Thank you Shirtmaven.

I'm still thinking about what to do with the shoulder. I don't think they can fix it, so should I accept it and leave it be? Or try to return the shirts for that reason?

Also, I'm not sure the drape will get better/good enough...

dual post, where is the delete button! :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy 

Have a question I'm hoping to get some feedback on: I worked with the tailor and managed to get a clean line/drape in the front. However, at the back, whilst the calf area drapes well, the thigh area has a bit of sagging.



1) Is this because the thigh area is bigger than what it should be?

2) To what extent can I expect a clean back like shown in the picture below? Is it reasonable to expect smth like this at the back?

Your trousers look pretty clean in the back. I assume you're referring to the point where they're hitting your calves? That is what looks to be causing that mild sag.

You've got a flat seat with prominent calves so the back of the trouser will fall straight, hit your calves, and sag. The way the trouser hangs to avoid hitting your calves has everything to do with its balance. That relates to the way your pelvic girdle is tilted and the rest of the build of your legs.

It could be something like a few small tweaks in different areas ...

OR something really simple like the trouser leg is too narrow for your calves! hard to tell with no side pics

sometimes "free" costs the most 

Quote:

Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy 

Thank you OTCtailor. That picture of the back (above) isn't me.

My back (THIGH AREA) looks something like this in the picture below.

What's the reason for this?

Too much material back there. You've got a semi prominent seat it looks like but your pelvis is shifted forward but tilted backward. The cloth is just following you around 

The fix might be letting out the seat a little and shortening the back rise.

Here's a diagram to help you understand what's going on with your body:

You'd be somewhere inbetween those two middle postures. Just FYI.