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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 173

post #2581 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by katabatic View Post

So, I just had a gentleman tell me that the bunching at the back of the sleeves on my MTM dinner jacket was "comfort creases", extra room which prevents the sleeve from pulling tight when you raise your arm towards to front.

That sounds like...something that might emanate from the rear of a large male ruminant to me. Is this an obscure term that I'm as yet ignorant of, or does that sound fishy to anyone else?

Did he also say that those same creases would reflect more light thus adding to the intentional contrasting effect of a dinner suit? Because that sounds just as reasonable yet untrue. Just wondering sarcasm.gif

post #2582 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

a decent tailor can do this. I've had people bring me jackets wanting the lapel buttonhole thread color changed. It's usually a waste of time, in my personal opinion, but they pay so I do it.

Thanks for the response.
post #2583 of 5092

Hello OTC tailor, thank you for the pics.

Here are some more pics I took yesterday. Could you please give me some advice before I take my blazer to a tailor who usually alter my clothing ( I wish I lived in the US so that I could bring it to you).

 

 

 

 

Please figure out why there is a crease at the back (is it a "shelf" as you said?) and how to fix this problem?

Thank you.

post #2584 of 5092
Yeah, about what I thought smile.gif. This is getting interesting.
post #2585 of 5092

Yeah, this thread always is interesting. Is it right, man?

When I wear a sweater outside my shirt, it seems that the crease on the bạck of my jacket is smoother, or vituarlly disappear. So I guess the reason is the back of my jacket is tight a little bit?


Edited by azumi - 1/14/13 at 7:03am
post #2586 of 5092

Hi everybody,

 

first off: I really appreciate this thread and the time you invest for helping people with less knowledge.

 

Blessed with few knowledge I had two MTM shirts tailored but am now a little bit unhappy about them. I would love to know whether it is me who is wrong with his opinion or whether it is the sellers that are telling me the "wrong things".

 

The shirt you see on the pictures has been worn one day. That is how it would look on an afternoon at work.

 

Which annoys me most is that the fabric is causing waves (I'm sorry, I'm not a native speaker and I hope you still understand what I mean). It just does not fall smoothly as it should, instead the fabric stows up at the chest and waist area. The seller tells me, that the fabric such a good material it has to be washed a couple of times before it falls alright. I just can't believe that. I've chosen one of the best fabrics they had to offer and now I'm stuck with a shirt I have to wash I don't know how many times? Does anybody believe that this is true?
 

The second thring is the wrinkling on the shoulder close to the neck/throat. When first trying on the shirt it had a tendency to have the "neck wrinke" so I asked them to alter the whole area and to remove very much of the surplus fabric that could be found on the back. What do you thing about the wrinkling in that area?

 

Lastly, what do you think about the back, the amount of fabric still remaining, the amount of fabric at the waists and the overall shirt appearance? I asked for a reasonably slim fitted shirt, but the overall amount of fabric is just way too much, isn't it? I also think the buttons are a catastrophy but they didn't offer any others. Certainly, I will not have anything made there again but for now I have to make the best out of it and am grateful for any advise.

 

Many thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #2587 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by azumi View Post

Hello OTC tailor, thank you for the pics.

Here are some more pics I took yesterday. Could you please give me some advice before I take my blazer to a tailor who usually alter my clothing ( I wish I lived in the US so that I could bring it to you).

 

 

 

 

Please figure out why there is a crease at the back (is it a "shelf" as you said?) and how to fix this problem?

Thank you.

Okay...

If you look at your jacket from the side view, you can see how it's level to the ground at the bottom if not falling down where it's longer in the back than the front.

That means that it was either designed that way, which I'm sure it wasn't, or the back balance is too long.

It's still hard to see, but is that a ridge/roll of fabric up under the back of the collar? If it is, the fix for your jacket is a bit more extreme than the typical squaring of the shoulders.

In part, the jacket's total fit around your waist down thru your hips is a little too tight. It may have to be let out a little mostly in the fore part of the jacket. Unfortunately, it's still too hard to tell from your pics so this part of the analysis may be more of a guess.

I don't know why that ridge goes away when you wear a sweater except that it may change the way the jacket drapes down your back. Basically the back of the jacket is simply too long. You may not really understand why it can't just be shortened from the bottom, but it can't be. You'd just shorten the jacket and the ridge would still be there. It has almost everything to do with the way it's hanging from your shoulders. Put the same jacket on another person with a longer back and it wouldn't be as bad. The fix is shortening from the top...possibly requiring shifting the back part upwards....recutting the shoulder line and armscye portion and then letting out the bottom to compensate for the shift. This is not an alteration I've actually done before because I don't come across people that actually want to spend the money to get it done, but I can see it in my mind how to fix.

 

@despos @jefferyd @a tailor: Am I correct with this analysis based on what I can see?

post #2588 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedBaxter View Post

Hi everybody,

 

first off: I really appreciate this thread and the time you invest for helping people with less knowledge.

 

Blessed with few knowledge I had two MTM shirts tailored but am now a little bit unhappy about them. I would love to know whether it is me who is wrong with his opinion or whether it is the sellers that are telling me the "wrong things".

 

The shirt you see on the pictures has been worn one day. That is how it would look on an afternoon at work.

 

Which annoys me most is that the fabric is causing waves (I'm sorry, I'm not a native speaker and I hope you still understand what I mean). It just does not fall smoothly as it should, instead the fabric stows up at the chest and waist area. The seller tells me, that the fabric such a good material it has to be washed a couple of times before it falls alright. I just can't believe that. I've chosen one of the best fabrics they had to offer and now I'm stuck with a shirt I have to wash I don't know how many times? Does anybody believe that this is true?
 

The second thring is the wrinkling on the shoulder close to the neck/throat. When first trying on the shirt it had a tendency to have the "neck wrinke" so I asked them to alter the whole area and to remove very much of the surplus fabric that could be found on the back. What do you thing about the wrinkling in that area?

 

Lastly, what do you think about the back, the amount of fabric still remaining, the amount of fabric at the waists and the overall shirt appearance? I asked for a reasonably slim fitted shirt, but the overall amount of fabric is just way too much, isn't it? I also think the buttons are a catastrophy but they didn't offer any others. Certainly, I will not have anything made there again but for now I have to make the best out of it and am grateful for any advise.

 

Many thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



I'm no expert by ANY means but that shirt just looks big on you.  I think the sleeves are too long and there is way too much fabric on the sides by the waist and by your armpits.  I'm not sure if this is because of the darts but I don't think so.

post #2589 of 5092
Quote:
@despos @jefferyd @a tailor: Am I correct with this analysis based on what I can see?

Can't see much from the lighting of the suit and twisting of the torso in the side view distorts the view
post #2590 of 5092

This is a very interesting thread and I would like your take on a recent purchase.

 

I'ts a low cost suit purchased from TM Lewin, this is the suit. It's cheap and I took a chance as I usually can fit into OTC-suits quite good.
http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Cushing-Slim-Fit-2-Button-Grey-Check-Suit/45221B,en_GB,pd.html?start=5&cgid=Mens-Suits&prefn1=Suit_Fit&prefv1=Sackville


I recieved it today and promptly unpacked it and put it on:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Would it even be possible for a tailor to save it, or should I return it?

 

Thanks in advance for your take on this. I really appreciate getting second opinions from well versed guys like yourselfs.

 

/Coupas

post #2591 of 5092
Quote:

Originally Posted by TedBaxter View Post

 

The seller tells me, that the fabric such a good material it has to be washed a couple of times before it falls alright. I just can't believe that. I've chosen one of the best fabrics they had to offer and now I'm stuck with a shirt I have to wash I don't know how many times? Does anybody believe that this is true?

 

If someone smarter than me (any of the tailors...or anyone else really) says different, then believe them not me, but as I understand it: yes, I believe your seller. It doesn't matter how good quality a cotton shirt is - if it's straightforward cotton, even _really good_ cotton, it is going to shrink when you wash it. This is a fundamental property of cotton fabric. It doesn't mean the maker did anything wrong or cheaped out on the fabric. A tailored / MTM shirt *should* be made slightly 'oversize' in order to shrink to the correct dimensions when washed, or you'd never be able to wash it. So, wash it once or twice, then try it on again.

 

edit: I'm not saying that shirt is okay or not, I'm not qualified to comment on that, and maybe one of the tailors could tell you if it's good or bad even without you washing it. Just saying that as I understand it, regular cotton shirts are always going to shrink a bit the first time or two they're washed.

 

Do let me know if I'm wrong, OTC/Despos/etc.

post #2592 of 5092
What he was told isn't about shrinkage, it's about the drape of the fabric. Essentially that the fabric would relax after several washings, kind of like denim. This may or may not be true, but I think the issue with TedBaxter's shirt is that it isn't cut very well for his body.
post #2593 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedBaxter View Post

Hi everybody,
The problem really has to do with who the mtm supplier is or uses. Mtm can be a blessing or a curse because if what is expected gets delivered then great a blessing. If you screw it up...and its easy to screw up....then you don't get what u expect and its worse than rtw. Maybe I should write an article on how to select a good mtm supplier since there are so many.
Anyway, the shirt is too big on you. All of your posture elements that ideally dictate how the pattern should be cut may not have been taken into consideration completely which is where those odd wrinkles come into play. Shrinkage? Yes and no. Good tightly woven cotton will not shrink much. Maybe 3-5%? Also, did the darts come sewn in like that? There's no reason for darts on a mtm shirt and they don't even fix the fit. It looks like an oversized express shirt. It can be altered. I'd rip those darts out, take it in thru the sleeves and sides. When I dart those HUGE rtw shirts I dart them right next to the side seam so u can barely see them. Who wants to wear a woman's blouse?
Ultimately the problem is a breakdown somewhere between the mtm reseller agent and the maker. Probably on behalf of the seller. My guess of course...
first off: I really appreciate this thread and the time you invest for helping people with less knowledge.

Blessed with few knowledge I had two MTM shirts tailored but am now a little bit unhappy about them. I would love to know whether it is me who is wrong with his opinion or whether it is the sellers that are telling me the "wrong things".

The shirt you see on the pictures has been worn one day. That is how it would look on an afternoon at work.

Which annoys me most is that the fabric is causing waves (I'm sorry, I'm not a native speaker and I hope you still understand what I mean). It just does not fall smoothly as it should, instead the fabric stows up at the chest and waist area. The seller tells me, that the fabric such a good material it has to be washed a couple of times before it falls alright. I just can't believe that. I've chosen one of the best fabrics they had to offer and now I'm stuck with a shirt I have to wash I don't know how many times? Does anybody believe that this is true?

 
The second thring is the wrinkling on the shoulder close to the neck/throat. When first trying on the shirt it had a tendency to have the "neck wrinke" so I asked them to alter the whole area and to remove very much of the surplus fabric that could be found on the back. What do you thing about the wrinkling in that area?

Lastly, what do you think about the back, the amount of fabric still remaining, the amount of fabric at the waists and the overall shirt appearance? I asked for a reasonably slim fitted shirt, but the overall amount of fabric is just way too much, isn't it? I also think the buttons are a catastrophy but they didn't offer any others. Certainly, I will not have anything made there again but for now I have to make the best out of it and am grateful for any advise.

Many thanks!















post #2594 of 5092
Remind me not to post or reply any longer from my smart phone.
post #2595 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Remind me not to post or reply any longer from my smart phone.

Please don't post or reply from your smart phone anymore! smile.gif

Actually I enjoy reading your posts, you are very articulate and actually understand the conceptual side of things. Your contributions are bringing new perspective and life to the thread.
Good job!
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