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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 168

post #2506 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

hugh51271 and oman112 both post questions about what is commonly referred to around here as a "divot" on the sleeve, and ask if this has anything to do with the shoulders being too wide, and the answer is no. Divots have nothing to do with the shoulder width. Here is a gross oversimplification:
The sleeve must be drafted in a size and shape that relate to the size and shape of the armhole. When the garment fits correctly though the chest (that includes, most critically, across the back) the sleeve will fit correctly.
If there is tension in the chest, the garment will pull, compressing the armhole. It gets shorter and wider. The sleeve, however, has not changed, so it will pull, and the excess cap height in relation to the armhole height will result in the divot.
We can see where hugh's full blades are pulling on the jacket- this tension is pulling the armhole and sleeve out of shape.
There are a few other, more arcane things at play here, but the gist of it is that. In most cases, if there is a severe divot, it can not be fixed. Minor ones can sometimes be fixed but you need to be seen, in person, by a competent tailor to get a proper assessment. Since it involves removing and resetting the sleeve, it won't be a cheap fix either.

 

Thank you for that great explanation jeffryd! Fortunately I am still in the stage where I can request a remake from Indochino. Will I be able to solve my shoulder divot simply by increasing my chest measurement? If so, by how much? Again, thank you for the lesson.

post #2507 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

The jacket balance looks off a little. The fronts are a little too long causing the bottom button to spread open like an inverted V.

The sleeves are too short because the jacket length is a little short, too. Let the sleeves out.

Once the balance is fixed then you can suppress the waist. If you suppress while the balance is off, it'll make it worse.

 

Thank you very much!

 

I will post an update when I get it back from my tailor.

post #2508 of 5281

This is the MTM tuxedo that I just got. While I'm happy with parts of it, the sleeves have some pretty noticeable issues. From what I've read in this thread, it may be a matter of sleeve pitch? I also have somewhat forward pitched shoulders, which I think they failed to take into account. Ironically, the sleeves on my OTR Suitsupply Sienna don't show any of these issues. 

 

(Parenthetically, I want to add that I'm in awe of everyone who gets great pictures, in this thread and others! It's surprisingly difficult to get good pictures of yourself in a suit on your own, especially in a cramped and poorly lit flat). 

 

 

 

 

 

post #2509 of 5281
Apologies if this is mis-using the the thread but I have a question for the tailors rather than members specifically and this seems like the most unobtrusive place to ask.

Is there a technical, historical or practical reason that double breasted suits almost always have a peak lapel? Naturally you see a few shawl lapel DJs, but I can't recall ever seeing a notched lapel version. If anyone could explain why this is (or might be, if "tradition" is the only suitable answer) it would be much appreciated.

Edit: I should clarify, I am not thinking of making/buying one, I just want to fill a gap in my knowledge.
post #2510 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by yfarmanara View Post

Wondering if I could get some advice on the bunching in the sleeves and armpit. Unfortunately only have an iPhone camera on hand at the moment. Thanks in advance!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Reposting, just in case it got lost in the middle of a couple of others. Appreciate the help, thanks! Thread has been very informative.
post #2511 of 5281


Thoughts? It's a bit snug in the armholes, especially when I try to reach up above my head or down to my toes, does this mean its too small? It's a 38. Sorry for the crappy picture!
post #2512 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by unclesam099 View Post

Another photo of my waistcoat - please give suggestions on what I might change on a future order.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Did you post a few pages back? If so, it look better, but I just can't get over the style of the button at the bottom. I've never seen that before.

Yes.

I plan on never ordering that model waistcoat again. I might end up cutting the button off and living with a buttonhole on the other side.

I think the angle of the photos is what does it. I still want to make the front points a bit shorter on my next order.
post #2513 of 5281

I would greatly appreciate the input of tailors. I am a long time lurker, and I have gained knowledge from this site, I just want to begin by thanking everyone for their contributions..

 

Ok, So I purchased  this is Polo Black Label suit, the Anthony pinstripe in a dark navy color. I bought a 40S, I usually wear a 38s slim fit, I tried the 38s in this suit, but the Black Label 38 lapels bowed slightly and the shoulder felt too cramped. 

 

I want a timeless fit, slim yet professional, nothing skin tight like Euro HM models (nothing against that, just my personal pref)

 

I am 5'8 140 lbs, broad shoulders, athletic build.

My measurements are:

 

Chest: 37-37.5 inch , (sometimes it is 37.5 when i am working out regularly)

Neck: 14.7

Waist: 31

 

My shoulders are broad, and squared, I have been told by numerous tailors that I will always have a slight collar roll or pulling of the collar in the back of my suit jackets due to the shape of my shoulders. 

 

Here are some pictures in various poses of the jacket:

I know the sleeves need to be shortened and waist/body needs to be taken in, but is this a good fit? should i keep it? 

 

Please let me know.. thank you in advance.

 

Front

 

 

 

 

Side: 

 

 

 

Back:

 

 

 

 

Arm Raised and in Motion

 

 

 

 

diff angle, while moving, 

 

 

post #2514 of 5281
Hey everyone. Here is a photo album of my trial suit before MTM alteration. I will withhold my comments for now as to not affect what anyone here says. I would greatly appreciate any feedback, especially from the esteemed tailors who are so active in this thread.

http://imgur.com/a/bdX2u#0
Edited by Badandy - 1/10/13 at 10:53pm
post #2515 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leader12 View Post

I´m taking my suit tomorrow to the tailor to have the sleeves shortened but I would like some more advice on what else to do for it to look as good as possible. I feel the sleeves around the biceps bunch up a bit.

 

Excuse my cell phone pics. Thats what I had at the moment. Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Agree that the sleeves could be shortened a bit. 1/4" at most. The waist is a little tight. The rest of what I can see looks alright.

post #2516 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by sciphiyem View Post



Thoughts? It's a bit snug in the armholes, especially when I try to reach up above my head or down to my toes, does this mean its too small? It's a 38. Sorry for the crappy picture!

The lack of movement in the armhole indicates that the armhole is a bit too big. However, reaching above your head or down to your toes really isn't a movement that anyone wearing a suit would normally do. 

Hard to tell with your picture, but if you have a tailor, take it to him. It may need to have the sleeves shortened slightly and the hem of the pants adjusted.

post #2517 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by yfarmanara View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by yfarmanara View Post

Wondering if I could get some advice on the bunching in the sleeves and armpit. Unfortunately only have an iPhone camera on hand at the moment. Thanks in advance!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Reposting, just in case it got lost in the middle of a couple of others. Appreciate the help, thanks! Thread has been very informative.

From the pictures, it looks like the back balance is a little short. A front picture would've been helpful, but the chest may be tight, as well. The jacket looks like it's fighting your posture. The bunching in the back around the armhole has to do with the way it's cut. The sleeve bunching only occurs on one side. Is it a pre-owned garment, mtm, or OTR?

post #2518 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhood View Post

Apologies if this is mis-using the the thread but I have a question for the tailors rather than members specifically and this seems like the most unobtrusive place to ask.

Is there a technical, historical or practical reason that double breasted suits almost always have a peak lapel? Naturally you see a few shawl lapel DJs, but I can't recall ever seeing a notched lapel version. If anyone could explain why this is (or might be, if "tradition" is the only suitable answer) it would be much appreciated.

Edit: I should clarify, I am not thinking of making/buying one, I just want to fill a gap in my knowledge.

Ultimately, you'd have to look up the history of the suit, but a double breasted lounge suit is a step-up in formality from the single breasted version. The peak lapel is a step up in formality from the notch lapel. It's a sartorial mismatch to have a notch lapel with a double breast. You do see it occasionally, but it's more of a fashion move than anything else. The shawl collar is is found on DB dinner jackets, mostly.

Lastly, DB suits are designed to present a specific visual aesthetic, which is the broadening and lengthening of the torso. The different button stances allow for different builds of torso. The peak lapel is a natural fit for that purpose.

post #2519 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by katabatic View Post

This is the MTM tuxedo that I just got. While I'm happy with parts of it, the sleeves have some pretty noticeable issues. From what I've read in this thread, it may be a matter of sleeve pitch? I also have somewhat forward pitched shoulders, which I think they failed to take into account. Ironically, the sleeves on my OTR Suitsupply Sienna don't show any of these issues. 

 

(Parenthetically, I want to add that I'm in awe of everyone who gets great pictures, in this thread and others! It's surprisingly difficult to get good pictures of yourself in a suit on your own, especially in a cramped and poorly lit flat). 

 

 

 

 

 

The immediately obvious is that the sleeves are too short. Granted, shirt sleeves are a little long, but the jacket sleeves are a good 1/2" short.

The front balance looks to be a little short. Sleeve pitch? It's off but that could be an incorrect posture analysis within the mtm order.

Lastly, the pants are far too long and the stride is out. The waist and seat may be loose as well?

I am, however, enamored by the Juki behind you.

post #2520 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

The immediately obvious is that the sleeves are too short. Granted, shirt sleeves are a little long, but the jacket sleeves are a good 1/2" short.

The front balance looks to be a little short. Sleeve pitch? It's off but that could be an incorrect posture analysis within the mtm order.

Lastly, the pants are far too long and the stride is out. The waist and seat may be loose as well?

I am, however, enamored by the Juki behind you.

 

Thanks for the analysis! Re: the sleeves, it's an off the rack shirt that hasn't been altered - I have an 18" neck, so getting shirts that fit in sleeve off the rack is pretty much impossible. I'll be getting the sleeves shortened at least 1/4"; I hate the feeling of them resting on the sides of my hands. 

 

The Juki is one of my favorite things I own :) (in my spare time I make outdoor gear). 

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