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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 167

post #2491 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSizzle View Post

Hopefully these pictures are acceptable to get an idea of fit.

 

1.) I had to retake a couple jacket shots after troika commented on the amount I bent my elbows in the full suit pictures. Thus, there are some with just jeans.

2.) Please ignore the shirt. It just happened to be the one I had on.

3.) I apologize for the lack of posture in some pictures. There's only so much time to hustle into the frame with a 10-second timer.

4.) I realize this suit is not a classic cut. It's a slimmer cut with a lower rise. (I actually only realized that latter part once I brought it home.)

 

Oh, and yes, I found my green socks thanks to these pictures!

 

Well, here we go. (I only put one picture before the spoiler. The rest are inside it.)

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More suppression in the waist of the jacket to clean that up. Probably by reducing the back parts only because it looks like a slight lack of fabric at that waist. Could possibly let out the forepart of the jacket slightly in that area and take in the back parts to achieve suppression. The button stance is incredibly high which is not helped but a low rise pant. The low right shoulder could be padded out a little to pick that sleeve up a bit.

The back rise of the pants is too high and the cloth is collapsing down your leg. The back of the waistband need to be dropped to compensate.

Length of pants is ok unless you want a neater break.

post #2492 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doughnuts View Post

Thank you for helping us with this thread!

 

I recently got this jacket at a steep discount, and was curious about how I should get it tailored or if I should return it? Please ignore the too-long sleeves from my shirt.

 

 

 

 

1000

 

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I apologize for the lousy iPhone pics and feel free to request more pictures.

The jacket balance looks off a little. The fronts are a little too long causing the bottom button to spread open like an inverted V.

The sleeves are too short because the jacket length is a little short, too. Let the sleeves out.

Once the balance is fixed then you can suppress the waist. If you suppress while the balance is off, it'll make it worse.

post #2493 of 5222
Wondering if I could get some advice on the bunching in the sleeves and armpit. Unfortunately only have an iPhone camera on hand at the moment. Thanks in advance!





post #2494 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by FillW View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamWill View Post

I'm guessing he means the topmost lapel (so, left lapel) bows outwards (doesn't lie flat against the body).


 Yeah. If I unbutton it I can get it to lie against my chest. Someone in the DB thread mentioned he was having his tailor move the buttons on a coat he has to get the lapel to lie against his chest normally.

 It's a used coat at a second hand store but it looks great and fits good otherwise.

Could be you have square shoulders and the strap is long and makes the lapel stand away from your chest. Could also be a short back balance causing this. Unless you post a picture it's hard to help you.
post #2495 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

If you really love the suit and it's the best thing within your budget, you can get certain things altered on this suit to get a better result. Take the suggestions in stride. Consider what it is you do for a living and what type of people you'll be around. 
Regarding the jacket, it's long in length and it can be shortened. See a tailor to discern how far you can go but no more than 2" or the proportions will be off. The sleeves are long, as well. What's more important than all of this is the balance. It is hard to tell but it looks like it's off somehow. Also, your shoulders are pitched forward slightly so you're fighting the jacket. From the side, it looks tight mainly in the seat area. There are different ways to suppress the waist of a jacket when you have a prominent seat. Sometimes you can take in only the foreparts of the side seams or maybe even add a dart under the arm that no one would see while giving the back room for your seat. 
The pants are too long and they could need adjustment in the waist and seat.

Thanks for the input. I passed on it. Definitely agree with you that the fit felt off.

Seeking other suits in the $400-500 range. Next trial is SuitSupply.
post #2496 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamWill View Post

from earlier posts in the thread, I believe the tailors would need you to post a picture, as there can be more than one cause of the lapels not sitting flat.

 Yeah, I wasn't sure if i wanted to take a chance on buying it even though it's pretty cheap. I just wanted to ask to get an idea if it could be made to look OK. I may get it and post a pic. Maybe they'll take it back if I can't fix it. I like the jacket and would use it as an odd jacket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

The gaping lapel, or what sounds like a gaping lapel, is from not enough room in the chest. Moving the buttons can work, it just decreases the cross-over and may force the non working buttons too close to the working buttons creating a strange phenomenon....especially if you're a little bulkier.

But of course, not easy to visualize without a picture.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Could be you have square shoulders and the strap is long and makes the lapel stand away from your chest. Could also be a short back balance causing this. Unless you post a picture it's hard to help you.

 Thanks, guys! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

post #2497 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

More suppression in the waist of the jacket to clean that up. Probably by reducing the back parts only because it looks like a slight lack of fabric at that waist. Could possibly let out the forepart of the jacket slightly in that area and take in the back parts to achieve suppression. The button stance is incredibly high which is not helped but a low rise pant. The low right shoulder could be padded out a little to pick that sleeve up a bit.

The back rise of the pants is too high and the cloth is collapsing down your leg. The back of the waistband need to be dropped to compensate.

Length of pants is ok unless you want a neater break.

 

Thank you, OTCtailor. I thought the button placement was a little high, especially for those pants. I'll take this all under advisement and try to get this handled. 

post #2498 of 5222
I didn't take a shot without the jacket from the side. Sorry.

Feedback is much appreciated.
This is MTM. The thing that I notice of course is the shoulders, hence the close shot of the shoulders from the side.








post #2499 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by hugh51271 View Post

I didn't take a shot without the jacket from the side. Sorry.
Feedback is much appreciated.
This is MTM. The thing that I notice of course is the shoulders, hence the close shot of the shoulders from the side.







Looks pretty clean, to me. A few small issues here and there like the seat of the jacket looks a tad tight. The shoulder issue could be a few things. From the front they look too wide and hanging off the right side a little. Hard to explain what all is going on there. A lot of technical jargon. What did the maker say about this or is it online mtm?

post #2500 of 5222

Hi all-- I am new to styleforum and I am new to MTM suits. I got my first Indochino suit a week ago, and I am generally please with the fit (as compared to the OTR suits that I'm used to anyway). However, I wanted to run the pictures by y'all to get some feedback--specifically on the jacket. My biggest concern is the bump/divot on the right shoulder. Not sure if it is because the shoulders are too wide or if the fit is bad elsewhere (e.g., chest). I am open to any feedback that will help improve the fit of my future indochino suits! Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 
post #2501 of 5222
hugh51271 and oman112 both post questions about what is commonly referred to around here as a "divot" on the sleeve, and ask if this has anything to do with the shoulders being too wide, and the answer is no. Divots have nothing to do with the shoulder width. Here is a gross oversimplification:

The sleeve must be drafted in a size and shape that relate to the size and shape of the armhole. When the garment fits correctly though the chest (that includes, most critically, across the back) the sleeve will fit correctly.

If there is tension in the chest, the garment will pull, compressing the armhole. It gets shorter and wider. The sleeve, however, has not changed, so it will pull, and the excess cap height in relation to the armhole height will result in the divot.

We can see where hugh's full blades are pulling on the jacket- this tension is pulling the armhole and sleeve out of shape.

There are a few other, more arcane things at play here, but the gist of it is that. In most cases, if there is a severe divot, it can not be fixed. Minor ones can sometimes be fixed but you need to be seen, in person, by a competent tailor to get a proper assessment. Since it involves removing and resetting the sleeve, it won't be a cheap fix either.


post #2502 of 5222

^^That has to be the best example of shoulder divots. I never imagine that they were caused by that. Thanks jefferyd!

post #2503 of 5222

Tomorrow I´m taking my suit to the tailor to make some arrangements but I need some advice. I will have the sleeves shortened so I can show some cuff from the shirt, but what else besides that should I do?

 

Heres some pics for reference. Sorry for the cellphone pics.

 

 

 

 

post #2504 of 5222

I´m taking my suit tomorrow to the tailor to have the sleeves shortened but I would like some more advice on what else to do for it to look as good as possible. I feel the sleeves around the biceps bunch up a bit.

 

Excuse my cell phone pics. Thats what I had at the moment. Thanks!

 

 

 

 

post #2505 of 5222
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

hugh51271 and oman112 both post questions about what is commonly referred to around here as a "divot" on the sleeve, and ask if this has anything to do with the shoulders being too wide, and the answer is no. Divots have nothing to do with the shoulder width. Here is a gross oversimplification:
The sleeve must be drafted in a size and shape that relate to the size and shape of the armhole. When the garment fits correctly though the chest (that includes, most critically, across the back) the sleeve will fit correctly.
If there is tension in the chest, the garment will pull, compressing the armhole. It gets shorter and wider. The sleeve, however, has not changed, so it will pull, and the excess cap height in relation to the armhole height will result in the divot.
We can see where hugh's full blades are pulling on the jacket- this tension is pulling the armhole and sleeve out of shape.
There are a few other, more arcane things at play here, but the gist of it is that. In most cases, if there is a severe divot, it can not be fixed. Minor ones can sometimes be fixed but you need to be seen, in person, by a competent tailor to get a proper assessment. Since it involves removing and resetting the sleeve, it won't be a cheap fix either.

Thank you, jefferyd...

These are all things that I see but simply don't have the time in to communicate certain problems quite like that. Learning experience over here, too!

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