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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 163

post #2431 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Regarding lifting weights and stretching...the verdicts on this are all across the board. Part of how I got into tailoring is my own personal history with weight lifting, fitness, etc and how it affects the body. I actually have pitched and sloped shoulders as well but with a muscular build. I tried different things forever to get my shoulders to retract and not slope so much but the older you get the harder it is. If you're not a weightlifter normally, posture is affected by primarily genetics and your normal day to day movements. People that have pitched shoulders and a stooped neck by genetics really have it tough when they're sitting at a desk or doing something that makes the body bend over too frequently. Especially if you're tall.

If you are a weightlifter, doing too many bench presses and lat pulldowns...you know the 'ahnold' moves? That'll take your posture in the direction of pitched and stooped because it tightens your chest pulling those shoulders forward and the lats and rotator cuff are actually fully responsible for forward shoulder rotation...not the chest. Combine that with endless sitting as Americans are more prone to than standing and your rhomboid muscles will start to weaken and lengthen as well. There arent' many exercises that strengthen and tighten those rhomboids which are primarily responsible for shoulder retraction. There is one, however, which you can try in conjunction with stretching your chest and front shoulder muscles.

What you do is you buy two smaller nerf footballs. You take those footballs and you position them at the very back of your shoulder deltoid muscles while leaning against a wall. Yes, you may need help. From here you're going to contract the center of your back muscles...the rhomboids. You hold and release. Over time and repitition this will tighten them up. You use nerf footballs because they don't exert resistance outward when you contract and release so it disengages your lats. There is no rear-ward pulling exercise that specifically isolates your rhomboid muscles like this one. Every pulling exercise will engage your lats. An uninformed well-meaning person with pitched shoulders will pull with his lats til he's got a back like Ahnold only to no avail because big lats make shoulder protraction worse.

Hope this helps!


Thank you. My work tends to be pretty physical (I'm a filmmaker, so I have to lug gear around) and I've been able to work out a schedule that will let me get to the gym with an eye towards building some strength for that and, as a secondary thing, making it easier to fit into OTR clothing. I figured my lats must have been part of the issue. I may just try that exercise -- fortunately, I'm still young and malleable.

post #2432 of 5378

I would really appreciate some more input for the fit below...I'm hoping to get as much done in the first alteration as possible (hopefully the only one) as I'm on quite a tight schedule...

 

Thanks again!!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmoo View Post

Hi all, just got this new MTM suit. Please ignore the shirt, forgot to bring a better one.

 

I feel that the shoulders are a bit wide, and asked them to take it in by 0.5 inch on each side (the least they do...). I also feel that the armholes are somewhat anteriorly rotated, causing the appearance on the side. There's also quite a bit of bunching up on the back side of the arms.

 

Any suggestions for tailoring would be tremendously appreciated. Thanks!

 

 

 

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post #2433 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

There's no point in altering an mtm suit to that extent unless they absolutely will not remake it. Shoulders are too big and a little too square for you. You could pad them out to lift them up a little but you said you want to take the pads out? Your right shoulder is VERY low and that should be compensated for in the measurements. Too much drape in the chest. Back would look ok when cleaned up. Shortening the jacket? That'll throw the pocket proportions off as well as the button stance.

This is an mtm suit...who took the measurements? This is a bizarre result.

Thanks for the input! I'm going to try and get it completely remade today, we'll see what happens.  And it's cheap Shanghai tailors mainly targetted towards foreigners, probably explains the shoddy work lol

 

I thought that if one had sloping traps they should get more unstructured/softer shoulders? Or am I wrong? My shoulders are sloped and I don't really feel the need to hide that to be honest (in terms of aesthetics) - but if it makes the suit look/hang better then by all means I'll embrace the extra padding

post #2434 of 5378

Thanks for this, is that the only cause of the creasing up? More suggestions would be really appreciated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chase H View Post

 

Sleeve pitch issue.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmoo View Post

Hi all, just got this new MTM suit. Please ignore the shirt, forgot to bring a better one.

 

I feel that the shoulders are a bit wide, and asked them to take it in by 0.5 inch on each side (the least they do...). I also feel that the armholes are somewhat anteriorly rotated, causing the appearance on the side. There's also quite a bit of bunching up on the back side of the arms.

 

Any suggestions for tailoring would be tremendously appreciated. Thanks!

 

 

 

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post #2435 of 5378
I got more fat. My pants are getting too tight and the pleats are open even when I'm standing.

Can a tailor alter the waist AND close the pleats, or should I donate said pants?
post #2436 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by justsayno View Post

I got more fat. My pants are getting too tight and the pleats are open even when I'm standing.
Can a tailor alter the waist AND close the pleats, or should I donate said pants?

Pants often have a couple inches of room to let out from the seat, unless they've been let out before.
post #2437 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotCrispy View Post

Thanks for the input! I'm going to try and get it completely remade today, we'll see what happens.  And it's cheap Shanghai tailors mainly targetted towards foreigners, probably explains the shoddy work lol

I thought that if one had sloping traps they should get more unstructured/softer shoulders? Or am I wrong? My shoulders are sloped and I don't really feel the need to hide that to be honest (in terms of aesthetics) - but if it makes the suit look/hang better then by all means I'll embrace the extra padding

Do you want them looking sloped? Then go that way.

But he isn't talking about the overall look. He is saying one of your shoulders is lower. I'm guessing he wants to even out the look between the right and the left.
post #2438 of 5378

Gotcha.  Just got back from the tailor place and looks like it's a lost cause/money down the drain.  Oh well, lesson learned...I guess..

post #2439 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by justsayno View Post

I got more fat. My pants are getting too tight and the pleats are open even when I'm standing.
Can a tailor alter the waist AND close the pleats, or should I donate said pants?

 

 

How valuable are they to you? Both of those alterations can be done at the same, yes, but the cost of doing so is $$. Removing pleats is no small task. 
post #2440 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


It drapes like this on the body of the coat because of your low left shoulder. The sleeve needs to be pressed properly. Did you try to steam out wrinkles in the sleeve?

The picture was pre-steamed. Even if I straightened out shoulders, there was still a weird drape. I tried steaming just the arms and it seemed to help. Have to find a place a properly press it now. Thanks, Despos.

post #2441 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmoo View Post

Hi all, just got this new MTM suit. Please ignore the shirt, forgot to bring a better one.

 

I feel that the shoulders are a bit wide, and asked them to take it in by 0.5 inch on each side (the least they do...). I also feel that the armholes are somewhat anteriorly rotated, causing the appearance on the side. There's also quite a bit of bunching up on the back side of the arms.

 

Any suggestions for tailoring would be tremendously appreciated. Thanks!

 

 

 

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1000

 

 

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It looks like a definite sleeve pitch problem but there could be other hidden issues we can't easily see while you're wearing the suit. Some possibilities that you should ask the tailor or mtm fitter are:

Did they properly account for your posture? It's hard to tell but it looks like the collar may not touch your neck the way it should. The balance of the jacket looks off but maybe it's the way the photo was taken with a phone. 

Do you have forward pitched shoulders? The pressure on the front of the armhole and the little horizontal ripples across your upper back suggest you might.

Do you have a flat seat?

Do you have anterior pelvic tilt? The pants are very messy despite the obvious length issue.

The pictures seem to indicate that you might be dealing with some of these issues and they may not have been accurately accounted for.

All of these posture elements can be adjusted for in most mtm programs. 

post #2442 of 5378

Hi guys!

 

Yesterday I went to pick up my MTM jacket, but I didn't accept it cause it needed some alterations. I must say that I'm quite dissapointed with the work. First of all the sleeves were super short! I mean that's why they measure you right? To get the right lengths and all stuff. They are going to compensate the short sleeves with the process that you all know. Problem is that I asked for fuctional buttons... so I don't know if between the first button and the end of the sleeve, there's going to be a huge gap. So I would like to ask, what is the common or correct distance between the buttons and the end of the sleeve?

 

Also in the middle of the back there was a huge bulk or fold, I don't know hoy to call it. I feel that the jacket is to tight in my waist, for a MTM jacket, the waist can be let out a bit? Then the lapels they were definitely not what I was expecting, the patch pockets and the chest pocket. I have to pick the final jacket on monday, and from those measurements they are going to make the other one. I will have an arguement on monday cause I think I will tell them that I don't want the other one, that I want my money back. Seriously, I had a different idea of the final product, I ordered these two jackets as a test, if they came out well I will stick with them to make all my jackets ans suits, but as far as it has gone, I don't like how they work. 

 

I will take my camera on monday and I will take some pictures of the fit, so I can upload them. 

 

Thanks!

post #2443 of 5378
Ah i want to keep the pleats. If the waist is let out, won't the pleats still be open?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

post #2444 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by justsayno View Post

Ah i want to keep the pleats. If the waist is let out, won't the pleats still be open?

The words you use to describe or ask questions is a bit unclear. You will have a benefit from letting out the waist and seat but the effect on the pleat will depend on how much weight you have gained and where you carry the extra weight. Letting the waist and seat out is all done from the center back seam and increases the waist and hip size overall but doesn't make the front panels larger and that's where the pleats are.
post #2445 of 5378

Thank you so much for your suggestions OTCtailor. What's frustrating is that the MTM fitter thought everything fit perfectly fine except the slight long pants length. He didn't mention anything about posture and everything else you mentioned. I'm not sure if he just wants to avoid further tailoring (save costs??) or just frankly not know what he's doing. It appears that I need to be proactive about how I want the jacket/pants tailored, but I'm obviously a big noob when it comes to this...

 

The suit is already sent off for initial adjustments, of course he didn't even mention the words sleeve pitch, but he took some pictures and hopefully the actual tailor will recognize it??

 

Any additional advice from other tailors on the forum for what I should let them know at the next fitting would be really appreciated. Thanks again!!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotmoo View Post

Hi all, just got this new MTM suit. Please ignore the shirt, forgot to bring a better one.

 

I feel that the shoulders are a bit wide, and asked them to take it in by 0.5 inch on each side (the least they do...). I also feel that the armholes are somewhat anteriorly rotated, causing the appearance on the side. There's also quite a bit of bunching up on the back side of the arms.

 

Any suggestions for tailoring would be tremendously appreciated. Thanks!

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

1000

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

1000

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

1000

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

1000

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

It looks like a definite sleeve pitch problem but there could be other hidden issues we can't easily see while you're wearing the suit. Some possibilities that you should ask the tailor or mtm fitter are:

Did they properly account for your posture? It's hard to tell but it looks like the collar may not touch your neck the way it should. The balance of the jacket looks off but maybe it's the way the photo was taken with a phone. 

Do you have forward pitched shoulders? The pressure on the front of the armhole and the little horizontal ripples across your upper back suggest you might.

Do you have a flat seat?

Do you have anterior pelvic tilt? The pants are very messy despite the obvious length issue.

The pictures seem to indicate that you might be dealing with some of these issues and they may not have been accurately accounted for.

All of these posture elements can be adjusted for in most mtm programs. 

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