or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 160

post #2386 of 5149

they're going to be lengthened when I take them to the tailor to have satin covered buttons put on...

post #2387 of 5149

& more shots!

 

 

400

 

400

 

400

 

400

 

400

 

400

 

400

 

400

post #2388 of 5149

I'm an alterations tailor located in PA, US. It's my primary business and how I make my living. I've never really posted much here in the forum so my comments to your photos are being reviewed. I'll also issue a little disclaimer that the more experienced tailors in the forum may have a more accurate description of what fixes you may need and if you doubt anything I recommend, do indeed wait for their input. They simply have a lot more experience than I do. 

post #2389 of 5149
Bought this RLBL suit on sale for 800 down from 1950. Navy Peak Lapel Pinstripe. Quality is amazing as you all know. Will be hemming the trousers, and lengthening the sleeves - might take in some in the waist. Opinions on the fit?





post #2390 of 5149
So I am in the market for dress shirts for starting a job next year.
I have singled it down to either the Brooks Brothers ESF Non-Iron or the H&M Premium Cotton Easy Iron or to just buy shirts from both

I am wearing the Brooks Brothers in a 14.5/32 and the H&M in a Size S. The first shots are BB and the second two are H&M

Can you comment on the fit of both? I Know the H&M one will need the sleeves taken in but do you think the BB one does? And also the shoulder seam on the BB one seems to be a bit higher. Is it too high or is it acceptable as well? Also, is the BB pocket in a bad place and is there a way to remove it without showing? Thanks!




post #2391 of 5149

Those shirts don't look too bad for RTW. The BB looks a little snug around the hips but you can't fix that.The pocket can easily be removed...or moved...by a decent tailor. Regarding the fit of the sleeves, they are a little billowy but you don't want them too tight. The length of the sleeves is good too. I would caution against the non-iron shirt as it's probably chemically treated or made from polyester or something. These shirts just don't do as well on your body as a pure cotton shirt. If you're gonna buy a shirt from BB you might as well buy a cotton shirt. Your preference, though.

post #2392 of 5149
Thank you for the comments!

I would prefer an untreated shirt as well but I will be doing a lot of traveling and client work for my job so I need a couple of non-iron white and light blue shirts for the plane rides and to stay wrinkle free in the suitcase.
post #2393 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by AriGold View Post

 

Are your shoulders that different in heights, or are you leaning? You might need to adjust the sleeves to compensate for that, but I'm no expert. I could also be thrown partially by the different amounts of visible cuff.

post #2394 of 5149

The jacket length is too short. You may like it because it's fashionable, but because it's a RTW jacket, the length of the sleeves corresponds to the length of the jacket. It looks like you need almost 1.25" released from the sleeve. You may run into a problem with not having enough fabric up inside the sleeve to make this happen. You won't know until a tailor opens it. Your shirt sleeve lengths are also too short for your arm length. It's a nice suit, indeed. Reminds me of this time I was in a thrift shop and there were 2 beautiful Paul Stuart suits there. They fit perfectly everywhere...except the sleeves were as short as these with working cuffs. Despite the incredibly cheap price on them, the beautiful fabric, the fancy details right down to side tabs on the trousers, I gave up on the purchase because I could never get those sleeves to fit right (barring insanely stupid amounts of odd work)

There's a lesson in there...

post #2395 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSizzle View Post

 

Are your shoulders that different in heights, or are you leaning? You might need to adjust the sleeves to compensate for that, but I'm no expert. I could also be thrown partially by the different amounts of visible cuff.

This gentleman has a natural low right shoulder. The difference in sleeve length is more obvious to the average eye than the shoulder is. The right side looks longer because the sleeve is just following the drop in his shoulder. The easy fix is padding out the right shoulder slightly to create left to right balance then dropping the sleeves evenly. This is pretty common.

The harder fix is detaching the right sleeve, in particular, and recutting the shoulder probably right up into the collar as the drop in his shoulder is not just at the tip but all the way into his upper trap muscles (or so it appears). Better have a competent tailor to perform that task no matter what the value of the suit is, but especially if it's RLBL.

post #2396 of 5149
Gentlemen, I need your help.

I made the mistake of ordering MTM shirts that were too slim for myself and I was not able to breath.
I changed a lot of measurements and unknowingly ended up with Mr. Kabbaz's recommendations for a super slim shirt.
+4 chest, +3 waist, +3 hem from one's body measurements.

Unluckily I still suffer from one problem in all of my shirts.
Upon moving both arms at the same time or if I reach to pick something up the ground, the fabric in the back is fully outstretched and I am restricted in my movement because the sleeves cut into the flesh of my upper arm/shoulder.
I addressed this to my tailor and wanted to increase the chest by 1-2 inches, he said he wouldn't increase the chest but add an inch to the yoke width.
I am not sold, because I feel the most tention around the area of my back that meets the armhole rather than on the very top of the back where the yoke sits.
Thus I still think it has something to do with the chest measurement, the balance of the fabric around my chest, the height of the armhole and/or the sleeve width rather than the yoke.

Maybe you can teach me what to do judging from my pictures.
Please excuse the lousy quality of pictures and the shirt being without cuff buttons.
It's the oldest shirt of mine and has lost all of them after years of wear.
Collar, shoulders, yoke and chest measurement are identical to the most recent shirts.

The first two pictures show the outstrechted fabric.
In the third picture you can see how high I can pull up my arms before I run out of fabric.
The fourth picture shows the wrinkels on the upper arm/shoulder caused by this problem.





Edited by Louis XIV - 1/3/13 at 2:52pm
post #2397 of 5149

Hi, all. Thanks in advance for any feedback you can give.

 

I have a sort of odd situation with this jacket -- the shoulders and chest feel a touch wider than most jackets in my size (this coat was bought in a thrift store, and there's no size tag), but the silhouette seems to work well. I don't know enough about fit to be sure if this is me being fooled by "almost," or if it's a complicated issue. I'm afraid I may have, without thinking, puffed my chest out a bit for these pics. My shoulders don't look that uneven in real life. I haven't helped things by using a slightly wide lens, doing a poor job of leveling the camera, and shooting from below chest height.

 

Nevertheless, any help is appreciated.

 

 

 

Side (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

Back (Click to show)

 

 

PS: One of the captchas I got uploading these was "do more sit-ups" ... It's like they can tell I'm a 36R.


Edited by YRR92 - 1/3/13 at 9:00pm
post #2398 of 5149
I bought a raincoat online. It fits me well in the shoulders and chest, I think. However, the waist is humongous. Now, I've never really owned a coat before, because I live in Los Angeles, so I'm not aware of how they are supposed to fit. Nevertheless, I think my coat must be tighter than it is right now. Is it possible to alter the waist of a raincoat presented below? What are your thoughts on the fit of it in general? Thank you!






post #2399 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Gentlemen, I need your help.
I made the mistake of ordering MTM shirts that were too slim for myself and I was not able to breath.
I changed a lot of measurements and unknowingly ended up with Mr. Kabbaz's recommendations for a super slim shirt.
+4 chest, +3 waist, +3 hem from one's body measurements.
Unluckily I still suffer from one problem in all of my shirts.
Upon moving both arms at the same time or if I reach to pick something up the ground, the fabric in the back is fully outstretched and I am restricted in my movement because the sleeves cut into the flesh of my upper arm/shoulder.
I addressed this to my tailor and wanted to increase the chest by 1-2 inches, he said he wouldn't increase the chest but add an inch to the yoke width.
I am not sold, because I feel the most tention around the area of my back that meets the armhole rather than on the very top of the back where the yoke sits.
Thus I still think it has something to do with the chest measurement, the balance of the fabric around my chest, the height of the armhole and/or the sleeve width rather than the yoke.
Maybe you can teach me what to do judging from my pictures.
Please excuse the lousy quality of pictures and the shirt being without cuff buttons.
It's the oldest shirt of mine and has lost all of them after years of wear.
Collar, shoulders, yoke and chest measurement are identical to the most recent shirts.
The first two pictures show the outstrechted fabric.
In the third picture you can see how high I can pull up my arms before I run out of fabric.
The fourth picture shows the wrinkels on the upper arm/shoulder caused by this problem.



This shirt has no side pleats or even a {useless} box pleat so, yes, your tailor is right that there is a lack of fabric in the back. Pleats help distribute fullness to the front when you're performing that exact same motion. This IS mostly the problem. A lack of fabric in the chest is something you'd feel when completely relaxed. It would pull across the chest just wearing it. The slimness of the sleeve is partially to blame as well. There's supposed to be a normal amount of fullness that distributes when you extend your arm. That's why you see quality shirt with nice pleats right where the cuff is mounted to the sleeve. Those pleats are not just decorative...they're a functional way to distribute fullness thru the sleeve for movement. Contrary to popular belief, a higher and slighter tighter armhole does not necessarily hinder shoulder movement. It usually HELPS shoulder movement. 
Proper dress shirt fit is as close to the body as possible without pulling anywhere and spreading the buttons in the front. Comfortable in the neck but not fitting anymore than 1 to 2 fingers in the collar band when buttoned. Fullness in the sleeve enough that no matter where you move your arm you're still able to have proper sleeve length, especially when wearing a jacket to show your "linen". The back should be clean against your back but fullness should be delicately hidden under those side pleats as to make movement generally more pleasant. Armholes shouldn't be baggy. Shoulder seams should be, guess where? Yep, on your shoulders or just slightly extended especially if there are no side pleats.
Hope this helps.
post #2400 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post

Hi, all. Thanks in advance for any feedback you can give.

 

I have a sort of odd situation with this jacket -- the shoulders and chest feel a touch wider than most jackets in my size (this coat was bought in a thrift store, and there's no size tag), but the silhouette seems to work well. I don't know enough about fit to be sure if this is me being fooled by "almost," or if it's a complicated issue. I'm afraid I may have, without thinking, puffed my chest out a bit for these pics. My shoulders don't look that uneven in real life. I haven't helped things by using a slightly wide lens, doing a poor job of leveling the camera, and shooting from below chest height.

 

Nevertheless, any help is appreciated.

 

 

Front (Click to show)

From this angle, yes of course, your stance is weird. There are no obvious vertical or diagonal creases in the chest. I can tell it's roomy but you can't really fix that too much in the chest. Maybe a little but altering the chest of a coat is harder than the back and the range you have is limited. Jacket doesn't follow your silhouette from the waist down. The sleeves are a little high from this view.

You also see the fronts spreading out with the button closed. Since it's really not too tight, this is a balance issue. The front of the jacket are too long.

 

Side (Click to show)

 

 

You can see the high sleeves and balance issue even better from the side. Can you see how much longer the front is than the back? It shouldn't be falling forward so much. This is happening because you've got a stooped posture at the neck. Your back is simply longer than the front. The fix is squaring the shoulders at the forepart only. This is a rather complex fix because it makes the neck hole smaller which can force the collar to be remade smaller. A competent tailor to fix that one. It's not like hunchback of notre dame, but it's why the jacket probably feels funny. Wearing it unbuttoned probably causes it to kick out in the front in the shape of an inverted V and the back vent flays out as well. You can also see hints of excess drape in the back from this view.

 

 

Back (Click to show)

From this view you see that excess drape in the back. All those vertical folds can be cleaned up by taking the the center seam and the sides in order to shape to your silhouette. It's mostly in the upper back. That room in the lower body would be decreased with improved balance.

 

In short, squaring/shortening the fronts, suppressing the back and waist a bit, and letting out the sleeve length and this jacket is better all over.

 

 

PS: One of the captchas I got uploading these was "do more sit-ups" ... It's like they can tell I'm a 36R.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions