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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 147

post #2191 of 3286
11/25/12 at 7:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Hubert View Post

Hello guys,

I just bought this new RTW suit and had it tailored at several points. However, I have quite developed shoulder blades and the jacked fits too tight around the upper back. Do you think it would help if I let the center seam out? Or is there maybe another way to fix this. (I've checked and there is approx 1'' allowance left in the center seam). Thanks in advance.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Suit info:

Size 40 Suitsupply Sienna model, 140s Vitale Barberis Canonico. At the shop they took in the sides of the jacket and squared the neck (although I still think it doenst fit well). The jacket fitted very comfortably before tailoring, but now just feels too snug at the back.

The collar/shoulder needs more work. Don't let the center back seam out, have the side body let out under each arm from the top the armhole to the waist. Would be more effective and give you more movement.
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post #2192 of 3286
11/26/12 at 5:29am

Apologies, double post. Pls see below. 

 

T


Edited by Thahmas - 11/26/12 at 12:29pm
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post #2193 of 3286
11/26/12 at 8:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


yes, looks like a forward shoulder issue but this photo doesn't give much to go on. There appears a bit of a twist on the shoulder. Need to shift the front shoulder towards the shoulder, away from the neck and square it a bit. Stretch the canvass over the shoulder. Put a little more fullness on the back shoulder and hope for the best.

 

Despos. 

 

Most of my jackets have this same issue. So it is correct to put more fullness on the back part of the shoulder? To make it a bit stiffer or what appeareance it would have?

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post #2194 of 3286
11/26/12 at 11:51am

Hi guys, firstly can I say how invaluable I’ve found this forum over the last couple of months – the knowledge and enthusiasm is amazing and some of you are so ridiculously well-dressed I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to emulate. As you’re about to see…

 

I have two jackets I’d love to hear some thoughts on. I hope to soon have enough conviction to make these calls myself but I’m still just starting out on this sartorial ascent.

 

First up is a lightweight grey m2m SC. First of all, I think I made a mistake in the cloth, it’s too light and it doesn’t flatter my build or skin tone. I’ll stick with darker shades going forwards. That said I’d like to make the best of it as it really is a beautiful material (scabal something or other). Here are the things I think I need to tweak;

1) excess material in the upper arm (accentuated by the fact the lower arm is actually quite tight)

2) arms are a little short, but they’re working cuffs so may not be an easy fix

3) pulling slightly across my shoulder blades

FYI - My RH sleeve is same length as LH, despite poor photo.

 

 

700

 

700

 

700

 

 

Would you change the above and is there anything else you would alter? I was also thinking it would look better with patch pockets. Presuming I could get the material (don’t know if I can), is this even achievable?

 

Second up is my latest, a navy herringbone(ish) bespoke SB. I made what sounds like the cardinal newbie sin of going guns blazing on your first bespoke with things like rounded patch pockets. Oops. Anyway, I picked this up a few weeks ago, but it needs to go back as the patch pockets are very slightly asymmetrical. I thought I would ask your opinions on a couple of other things I’ve noticed before I do take it back;

1) Slight dimpling in my upper arm, what causes this and is it easy to change?

2) On my right shoulder, there is a slight ridge running across the brow (?) of it. Am I being pedantic or is this something that should get changed and is easy to change? My right shoulder is lower than left, which might be a reason?

4) Thoughts on the breast pocket? Would it be more sensible to revert back to a normal patch pocket, if indeed it’s possible.

 

 

700

 

700

 

700

 

700

 

 

And is there anything else you would change on this? I like this tailor and will be using him again soon for flannel trousers and a couple of suits so I’d like to work quite hard on getting this first one just right.

 

Thanks and apologies for the diatribe.

 

T

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post #2195 of 3286
11/26/12 at 7:40pm

I realise you can't see the trousers properly but if you can critique on the top half please?

 

My main concern, and the reason that I've requested help on here, is the bunching at my mid-section on the front shot. Is this not acceptable from a tailored suit?

 

I'm going back today so any quick replies are very much appreciated.. thanks in advance guys.

 

700

 

700

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post #2196 of 3286
11/26/12 at 9:52pm
Hey there gents,

I would like to ask the experienced guys and tailors here regarding pants size and fit.
Here is the thing, I have a small waist, a muscular thigh, and a big butt. ( too many squats, lol )
And all the pants I have tried on and own have the drooping fabric on the inner thigh and outer thigh (near the knee).
Can the experience guys or tailors here offers any suggestions on pants fit and size?
Does anybody have any similar experience such as mine?
Thanks.
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post #2197 of 3286
11/26/12 at 10:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

[/SPOILER]
Both jackets are very clean. Nothing to comment about the fit but if I were making these I would want a better look on the front below the button. Don't want to see so much of the shirt and top of the trouser. The shaping of the back doesn't define your waist. It looks fitted right under the armhole on the back and then an A line to the hem. Greenish jacket not as clean in this area as the brown.
The left vent hangs differently than the right side. You have a low right so you may need more length over your left shoulder.
Just random observations, they appear to fit well.

Thanks, appreciate it.

On the visible shirt and trouser, how do you achieve open quarters without showing distracting shirt and trousers? I really like the X-look of open quarters and specifically showed how I wanted the cut. I guess it doesn't help that I am still reluctant to wear trousers on my natural waist. Where would you start cutting away off the quarters?
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post #2198 of 3286
11/27/12 at 8:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


yes, looks like a forward shoulder issue but this photo doesn't give much to go on. There appears a bit of a twist on the shoulder. Need to shift the front shoulder towards the shoulder, away from the neck and square it a bit. Stretch the canvass over the shoulder. Put a little more fullness on the back shoulder and hope for the best.

Thank you Despos. Good eye spotting the twist - there's indeed some. Unfortunately, I'm out of luck - been to the tailor this morning and he says there's not enough outlet to shift the shoulders. He suggests making the shoulders a bit narrower in the front (by cutting them and then re-attaching the sleeves, rather than shifting), then let out the back seam a bit. I still have to decide if I want that done or not - do you think it would help?

 

He also says he can slope the shoulders, is that possible?

 

Future commissions (he says) will account for the sloped + forward shoulders, but I'm not sure I can trust that - the cut he uses for MTM just seems too off for my shape. I may give it one last chance.


Edited by RDiaz - 11/28/12 at 9:13am
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post #2199 of 3286
11/28/12 at 10:40am

If he knows what he wants, it's not like knowing the truth about the fit will suddenly make him say, "Oh, well. Better burn it."

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post #2200 of 3286
11/28/12 at 3:30pm

Finally took some pictures of the suit after having my tailor take in the collar and the sleeve (even though I didn't do surgeons cuffs, the sleeves were done in such a way that they couldn't really be brought in much). The pants are a complete redo, with a larger leg opening, which Black Lapel was nice enough to do, even though it was kind of my fault. Maybe it's my low shoulder, but the pockets really line up strangely with this one, compared to other suits (as best I can tell, they are aligned properly on the jacket, though).

 

Before:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/1830#post_5782784

 

Now:

 

1000

1000

1000

 

Pants are still sitting a bit higher in back, which I think is just due to my somewhat slouchy posture?

1000

 

Tried on the Kent Wang RTW trial suit in 38 / 32 as well. Will need some adjustment, but I think overall the fit is not bad. Interestingly, the shoulders and the relative pocket height looks much better on this one. Do folks think it would be a mistake to go for a soft shoulder (presumably not a good idea to go for a completely natural shoulder with my sloping and slightly uneven shoulders, but I prefer a softer look).

 

I'm thinking bring in the chest and waist of the jacket a tiny bit, and a bit longer too, move down the top jacket button a couple cm, bring the pants in and up a hair, with a larger leg opening. Thoughts (they're not hemmed, so ignore the bottom of the pants)? I'm most likely going to do a dark grey / charcoal pick and pick.

1000

1000

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post #2201 of 3286
11/28/12 at 6:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PianistOne111 View Post

Can I save this? It seems to fit in the shoulders (maybe even a bit narrow), and the armholes are small enough. I know what to do with the sleeves: short enough to just cover my shirt cuffs. What else should I do?

Here are its measurements:

chest (right under arms) 102
waist 96
hip 104
sleeve 65
length (in back from neckline down) 82
 
A well-fitting jacket:

chest 96
waist 86
hip 98
sleeve 54
length 69
 
Me:
chest 90
waist 73
hip 90
arm (shoulder to first knuckle of thumb) 58
half the distance between neck and floor 69




the coat should be fitted over a suit coat.
sleeves length any wear between the base of the thumb
and the top knuckle of the thumb.
if you are into a closer fit, the sides could be taken
in some. this is an outer coat its looser than a suit coat.
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post #2202 of 3286
11/28/12 at 6:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acekun View Post

DSCN4421.JPG 2848k .JPG file












Can I get a critique on this suit, please?  Just got it from Black Lapel. Sleeves seem too short and the right one is shorter than the other. Pants in the back don't look too good either.  Please let me know what you would get done to this suit.

Apologies for the picture quality -- just got the suit and couldn't take the pics until tonight when the light wasn't too good.  My wife is out of town and my 6 yr old did her best so it's as good as we could do for right now.  I want to take this in soon to get altered for a company party next weekend so that's why I'm putting these up now instead of waiting until the wife gets home.  Thanks for your help.

yes the sleeves need to be lengthened.
the jacket seems to not be setting properly on your shoulders.
or are you leaning to the left?
cant see the entire back of the trousers.
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post #2203 of 3286
11/28/12 at 8:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thahmas View Post

Hi guys, firstly can I say how invaluable I’ve found this forum over the last couple of months – the knowledge and enthusiasm is amazing and some of you are so ridiculously well-dressed I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to emulate. As you’re about to see…

I have two jackets I’d love to hear some thoughts on. I hope to soon have enough conviction to make these calls myself but I’m still just starting out on this sartorial ascent.

First up is a lightweight grey m2m SC. First of all, I think I made a mistake in the cloth, it’s too light and it doesn’t flatter my build or skin tone. I’ll stick with darker shades going forwards. That said I’d like to make the best of it as it really is a beautiful material (scabal something or other). Here are the things I think I need to tweak;
1) excess material in the upper arm (accentuated by the fact the lower arm is actually quite tight)
2) arms are a little short, but they’re working cuffs so may not be an easy fix
3) pulling slightly across my shoulder blades
FYI - My RH sleeve is same length as LH, despite poor photo.









Would you change the above and is there anything else you would alter? I was also thinking it would look better with patch pockets. Presuming I could get the material (don’t know if I can), is this even achievable?

Second up is my latest, a navy herringbone(ish) bespoke SB. I made what sounds like the cardinal newbie sin of going guns blazing on your first bespoke with things like rounded patch pockets. Oops. Anyway, I picked this up a few weeks ago, but it needs to go back as the patch pockets are very slightly asymmetrical. I thought I would ask your opinions on a couple of other things I’ve noticed before I do take it back;
1) Slight dimpling in my upper arm, what causes this and is it easy to change?
2) On my right shoulder, there is a slight ridge running across the brow (?) of it. Am I being pedantic or is this something that should get changed and is easy to change? My right shoulder is lower than left, which might be a reason?
4) Thoughts on the breast pocket? Would it be more sensible to revert back to a normal patch pocket, if indeed it’s possible.











And is there anything else you would change on this? I like this tailor and will be using him again soon for flannel trousers and a couple of suits so I’d like to work quite hard on getting this first one just right.

Thanks and apologies for the diatribe.

T

on the grey.
the sleeves can be lengthened a little in spite of the working buttons.
the only place to let out the blades is on the center seam.
i would let it out from top to bottom. how much is up to you.
after that you may need to shorten the back at the top.
forget changing the pockets.
the sleeves can only slimmed slightly.
but they can be hung differently so that it would take some of
the fullness.

on the navy
the sleeve can be fixed. the roping will not be as extreme as it is now..
it looks like there is something underneath there.
i would change the angle of the opening of the pocket to
something more common.
the rest looks good. just remember do one suit at a time not two.
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post #2204 of 3286
11/28/12 at 8:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by style37 View Post

I realise you can't see the trousers properly but if you can critique on the top half please?



 



My main concern, and the reason that I've requested help on here, is the bunching at my mid-section on the front shot. Is this not acceptable from a tailored suit?



 



I'm going back today so any quick replies are very much appreciated.. thanks in advance guys.



 





this usually happens to a flat front . one with no front dart.
also you have a right low shoulder and a high right hip.
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post #2205 of 3286
11/28/12 at 9:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wyardley View Post

Finally took some pictures of the suit after having my tailor take in the collar and the sleeve (even though I didn't do surgeons cuffs, the sleeves were done in such a way that they couldn't really be brought in much). The pants are a complete redo, with a larger leg opening, which Black Lapel was nice enough to do, even though it was kind of my fault. Maybe it's my low shoulder, but the pockets really line up strangely with this one, compared to other suits (as best I can tell, they are aligned properly on the jacket, though).

Before:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/1830#post_5782784

Now:





Pants are still sitting a bit higher in back, which I think is just due to my somewhat slouchy posture?


Tried on the Kent Wang RTW trial suit in 38 / 32 as well. Will need some adjustment, but I think overall the fit is not bad. Interestingly, the shoulders and the relative pocket height looks much better on this one. Do folks think it would be a mistake to go for a soft shoulder (presumably not a good idea to go for a completely natural shoulder with my sloping and slightly uneven shoulders, but I prefer a softer look).

I'm thinking bring in the chest and waist of the jacket a tiny bit, and a bit longer too, move down the top jacket button a couple cm, bring the pants in and up a hair, with a larger leg opening. Thoughts (they're not hemmed, so ignore the bottom of the pants)? I'm most likely going to do a dark grey / charcoal pick and pick.


it looks pretty good.now.
on your next suit tell them how low your right shoulder is and how high your right hip is.
the instructions for measuring is in the tutorials they are "do i have a low shoulder"& "got a high hip".
tell them what your tailor had to do, and send them those last two pictures so they .believe you had
those problems.

good luck to you
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