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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 15

post #211 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

2011-10-12_18-29-53_928.jpg

Esteemed tailors, can you expound on the cause of this phenomenon of the fronts of the coat "hovering" away from the front of the body? I have a couple of coats which generally fit elsewhere, but do this same thing which is only apparent in the side view.
post #212 of 5378
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My main issue with the way this fits, is the quarters of the jacket being so far spread in the front shot. I notice this goes away if I draw my shoulders back a little, but this isn't really my usual posture. Can this be tweaked by a tailor?

There's also the rumpling in the back thigh of the trousers that I think could do with a little clean-up.

The shirt could also use some work, but for the life of me I can't figure out what. Untucked, it's borderline over my stomach, any more reduction would make it constrictive. But when tucked, after the first time I sit enough fabric comes out to cause the folds you see in the first three shots.

Any other things that I've missed please advise! And thanks to the tailors taking their time to look over this thread, it's a great idea and has helped me a lot already in what to look for in terms of fit issues.
post #213 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jobst View Post

My main issue with the way this fits, is the quarters of the jacket being so far spread in the front shot. I notice this goes away if I draw my shoulders back a little, but this isn't really my usual posture. Can this be tweaked by a tailor?

Those quarters are not really that open, they are probably just meant to be like that. The high buttoning point is the bigger problem, which exaggerates the open quarters by causing more shirt to be shown. Neither of these things can really be fixed anyway; you can potentially close the quarters a bit by shortening the front-balance, which achieves a similar thing to pulling your shoulders back, but if the front-balance is not the cause of the problem, and the quarters are just cut to be this open, then shortening it will mess up the balance of the coat.
post #214 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

2011-10-12_18-30-44_693.jpg
2011-10-12_18-30-36_722.jpg
2011-10-12_18-29-53_928.jpg
I received this SC from a gent in the UK. It is a Caruso Sartoria Parma, and the fabric/pattern is amazing. Obviously it needs some work to fit me. Is it possible to make it work?
The shirt is a Borrelli, and it has a spread collar.
Also, the pants are way too tight on me, I will be giving them away soon. I only wore them so the outline of the coat would be clearer.
Thank you for the help!
Edit: After many tries, it seems that I cannot edit out my face via photobucket. Even though my photobucket picture is saved cropped. (as is the one with the sink, the sink is not in my photobucket album) So I guess I'll leave it.

first do the shoulders fit or they too large? if they fit then it may be worth a try.
look at the horizontal stripes. in the front they angle up at the center, in the side view they do the same. put this together with the front of the coat closing and pooching out.
this means that the front is too short at the top. you cant lengthen it, so the back must shortened at the top to get the balance you need. only then can the coat be taken in .
you have an erect posture, the coat has a stoop-ed posture. go to the search function ask for balance explained.
post #215 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

first do the shoulders fit or they too large? if they fit then it may be worth a try.
look at the horizontal stripes. in the front they angle up at the center, in the side view they do the same. put this together with the front of the coat closing and pooching out.
this means that the front is too short at the top. you cant lengthen it, so the back must shortened at the top to get the balance you need. only then can the coat be taken in .
you have an erect posture, the coat has a stoop-ed posture. go to the search function ask for balance explained.

Thank you so much! I found and will be reading Manton's old post on balance.

I am happy with the shoulders. As happy as I have been with a RTW at least.

I may have to find a tailor in Chicago or Minneapolis this holiday season to get this fixed, I don't trust my local tailor with such a task.
post #216 of 5378
There are no tailors in Chicago.
post #217 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

There are no tailors in Chicago.

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post #218 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

There are no tailors in Chicago.

Surely you're jesting? One of the biggest cities in the USA and there are no tailors there?

EDIT:

Just noticed a few posts up, a poster who goes by the handle of 'a tailor', who appears to reside in Chicago.
post #219 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDT View Post

Just noticed a few posts up, a poster who goes by the handle of 'a tailor', who appears to reside in Chicago.

Despos is also in Chicago; I believe Jeffery was joking.
post #220 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

Despos is also in Chicago; I believe Jeffery was joking.

All three of us are in Chicago. So yes, a joke.
post #221 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

Despos is also in Chicago; I believe Jeffery was joking.

All three of us are in Chicago. So yes, a joke.

They say there is some truth in every joke.
post #222 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

2011-10-12_18-30-44_693.jpg
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
2011-10-12_18-30-36_722.jpg


2011-10-12_18-29-53_928.jpg
I received this SC from a gent in the UK. It is a Caruso Sartoria Parma, and the fabric/pattern is amazing. Obviously it needs some work to fit me. Is it possible to make it work?
Before altering to the extent that atailor suggests, try having the jacket shaped and sized to you. The jacket is way too loose around the waist. Most effective would be to open the side seams to divide the amount you reduce the waist by taking two thirds from the fronts and one third from the back. This may bring the cloth pattern in line and be acceptable to you. It should reach 80% of correcting things but if you want perfection you can add the adjustments atailor recommends.
post #223 of 5378
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jobst View Post

700700700700700700
My main issue with the way this fits, is the quarters of the jacket being so far spread in the front shot. I notice this goes away if I draw my shoulders back a little, but this isn't really my usual posture. Can this be tweaked by a tailor?

There's also the rumpling in the back thigh of the trousers that I think could do with a little clean-up.

The shirt could also use some work, but for the life of me I can't figure out what. Untucked, it's borderline over my stomach, any more reduction would make it constrictive. But when tucked, after the first time I sit enough fabric comes out to cause the folds you see in the first three shots.

Any other things that I've missed please advise! And thanks to the tailors taking their time to look over this thread, it's a great idea and has helped me a lot already in what to look for in terms of fit issues.
Agree with what was said. The button position is the biggest problem here.

The shirt looks sloppy but doesn't looked tucked in very well. Have the back reduced only. have the side seams opened and reduce the sides at the waist on the back part only ,1 1/2" on each side.
post #224 of 5378
is a neck measurement required for suit jackets? i am currently working with a tailor - trying to develop a good relationship - would like to tell him how to avoid it.
post #225 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by silvermagenta View Post

is a neck measurement required for suit jackets? i am currently working with a tailor - trying to develop a good relationship - would like to tell him how to avoid it.

If you have to tell your tailor what to do, you are working with the wrong tailor.
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