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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 14

post #196 of 5227

 

 

Styleforum, I need your help!

 

Please let me know if I need to get this suit jacket tailored.

I'm trying to go for a modern, slim look.

When I get it dry cleaned next time, I will ask to turn it into a 3 roll 2 jacket.

 

Also, does the jacket work with the pants? And does the knit tie I'm wearing work with the outfit?

 

Quote:

fx7Sc.jpghdA4p.jpg5pOsC.jpg
 
6H6DC.jpgxI5NA.jpg

 

post #197 of 5227

Edit:Repost


Edited by thefunk89 - 10/10/11 at 5:02pm
post #198 of 5227
+10000 Despos! This is what makes SF great
post #199 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefunk89 View Post

 

 

Styleforum, I need your help!

 

Please let me know if I need to get this suit jacket tailored.

I'm trying to go for a modern, slim look.

When I get it dry cleaned next time, I will ask to turn it into a 3 roll 2 jacket.

 

Also, does the jacket work with the pants? And does the knit tie I'm wearing work with the outfit?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Quote:

fx7Sc.jpghdA4p.jpg5pOsC.jpg
 
6H6DC.jpgxI5NA.jpg

 



Would help to know what brand the jacket is
post #200 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. .....I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

+1; this is what I was thinking. eh.gif
post #201 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefunk89 View Post

 

 



I'm not a fan of the tie and the back of the jacket looks like it could use a little sculpting in order to look like it accentuates you instead of hiding you.

post #202 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

To some extent, I think it's based on the model. But I have some RLPL and RLBL sport coats that create a very nice slope with a roped sleeve head. While I have some Hickey Freeman jackets that create a much more hump like line to the shoulder with a roped sleeve head as well.


Usually having sloped shoulders has been considered a defect not an ideal to shoot for.

Saying you want to look like a nice slope shoulder is one step from asking the tailor to give you a hunchback.
post #203 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. .....I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

+1; this is what I was thinking. eh.gif


Are you guys thinking that wedge shaped padding placed with the thickest part of the wedge at the neck tapering down to nothing would make the shoulder look sloped or are you saying something else?

Where did this discussion begin?
post #204 of 5227

Quote:

Originally Posted by Despos View Post


[/SPOILER]
Would help to know what brand the jacket is

It's an old jacket I've had for years but never wore. The brand is emanuel ungaro.
 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestarteacher View Post

I'm not a fan of the tie and the back of the jacket looks like it could use a little sculpting in order to look like it accentuates you instead of hiding you.

In terms of sculpting, what should I ask a tailor to do? And doesn't it need to be slimmed down?

 

Also, does the jacket look awkward paired with the pants or does it look fine?

 

post #205 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefunk89 View Post


Please let me know if I need to get this suit jacket tailored.

I'm trying to go for a modern, slim look.


You would have to spend more on tailoring than this garment is worth to achieve that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefunk89 View Post

When I get it dry cleaned next time, I will ask to turn it into a 3 roll 2 jacket.

It's not just a matter of pressing- the collar is far too long to get the lapel to break between the buttons- it is already breaking a good inch above the top button so you would have to take the collar off and shorten the spring in the lapel by 3/8" to get what you want. Please don't attempt this.

This is a good place to repeat that alterations should be an attempt to take a garment which is close to fitting well or being what you want and then adding a little icing. Trying to transform a garment into something it is not is usually a recipe for disaster.
post #206 of 5227

 

Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post


You would have to spend more on tailoring than this garment is worth to achieve that.

 

I understand. Would it be worth tailoring if I scratch the slim look that I was going for and just want a normal fitting jacket?

If not, I can just get rid of it.

What should I do when I purchase a new jacket to replace this? Buy a smaller size? I'm not entirely sure what is wrong with this one and the length seems fine.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

It's not just a matter of pressing- the collar is far too long to get the lapel to break between the buttons- it is already breaking a good inch above the top button so you would have to take the collar off and shorten the spring in the lapel by 3/8" to get what you want. Please don't attempt this.
This is a good place to repeat that alterations should be an attempt to take a garment which is close to fitting well or being what you want and then adding a little icing. Trying to transform a garment into something it is not is usually a recipe for disaster.


Thank you for the clarification, and I won't attempt this.

post #207 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Are you guys thinking that wedge shaped padding placed with the thickest part of the wedge at the neck tapering down to nothing would make the shoulder look sloped or are you saying something else?
Where did this discussion begin?


Thanks Chris - here's the discussion:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

...(sloped shoulders look very good)......

This is an interesting view; are you serious?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post

This is an interesting view; are you serious?

How can I not be?

1fc293f1.jpg

1797a89c.jpg



Although this is obviously Spoo and I was using the pictures to answer his questions, any comments from the tailors on the fit of the jacket?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

How can I not be? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
1fc293f1.jpg
1797a89c.jpg
Although this is obviously Spoo and I was using the pictures to answer his questions, any comments from the tailors on the fit of the jacket?

Are you posting these pics as illustration of your point? Needless to say it's rather subjective - and seems a little odd to me - but I would have thought that Spoo hardly has a pronounced sloping shoulder. I've seen much more pronounced sloping shoulders here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post

Are you posting these pics as illustration of your point? Needless to say it's rather subjective - and seems a little odd to me - but I would have thought that Spoo hardly has a pronounced sloping shoulder. I've seen much more pronounced sloping shoulders here.

I'm not talking about his shoulders sloping, I'm referring to the sloped, concave up shape of the jacket shoulder.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post

Are you posting these pics as illustration of your point? Needless to say it's rather subjective - and seems a little odd to me - but I would have thought that Spoo hardly has a pronounced sloping shoulder. I've seen much more pronounced sloping shoulders here.

I'm not talking about his shoulders sloping, I'm referring to the sloped, concave up shape of the jacket shoulder.

Concave shoulders are knows as 'pagoda' shoulders, though I don't really see those on either of the pics of Spoo which you posted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by academe View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

I'm not talking about his shoulders sloping, I'm referring to the sloped, concave up shape of the jacket shoulder.

Spoo's coats look like they have roped shoulders, not concave ones... I'd suggest reading some of Jeffreyd's posts on shoulder types and pagoda shoulders FIRST ... then come back and explain what you like about sloped shoulders. Would help to get your terminology right, as you comments are a bit confusing...


http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/11/different-shoulder-types.html

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/09/constructing-pagoda-shoulder-part-1.html

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/10/pagoda-shoulders-making-pad.html

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/10/pagoda-shoulders-putting-pieces.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post

i wouldn't call that "concave"
isn't that just how it looks when you have roped shoulders?

No, there are roped shoulders that don't have pagoda/sloping shoulders.

for example: http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11971740&pg=2&parentPage=family
Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

No, there are roped shoulders that don't have pagoda/sloping shoulders.
for example: http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11971740&pg=2&parentPage=family

and that RLBL jacket looks like the guy is wearing football shoulder pads....
you think that looks better than what spoo is wearing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

a pagoda shoulder is concave.

a roped shoulder is a regular with the roping done on the top of the sleeve.
its actually a misnomer that is commonly accepted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post

and that RLBL jacket looks like the guy is wearing football shoulder pads....
you think that looks better than what spoo is wearing?

No.... which is why I said I like sloped shoulders, lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. The model wearing that RLBL suit has very square shoulders, which makes the jacket seem even more boxy. Poor choice of model, if you ask me.

Here he is wearing a skin tight crewneck... Very square shoulders. http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11754733&cp=2871712.2887664&view=99&parentPage=family

I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Romo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. The model wearing that RLBL suit has very square shoulders, which makes the jacket seem even more boxy. Poor choice of model, if you ask me.
Here he is wearing a skin tight crewneck... Very square shoulders. http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11754733&cp=2871712.2887664&view=99&parentPage=family
I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

To some extent, I think it's based on the model. But I have some RLPL and RLBL sport coats that create a very nice slope with a roped sleeve head. While I have some Hickey Freeman jackets that create a much more hump like line to the shoulder with a roped sleeve head as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonneker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post

Correct me if I'm wrong, but sloped shoulders is a physical attribute. .....I guess you can pad the crap out of a jacket in order to get someone who has very square shoulders to look like the are sloping... not sure.

+1; this is what I was thinking. eh.gif
post #208 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by boston321 View Post

I'd also love some feedback, too, on this jacket. Have been working with the same tailor for some time now, in New Delhi, but am not quite sure how I feel about the results. For perspective, I'm on the shorter size, at around 5' 7", and am somewhat skinny. Often I feel like clothes have a bit of a circus tent feel! Then again, I am open to the notion that I may just be pickey.

 

On this particular jacket, I feel like the shoulders have a bit more padding than I'd like, and wonder if the cut is too loose. Particularly, I wonder if further waist supression is in order, or even something more drastic. Would love any feedback / suggestions for future trials!

 

P1080192.JPG

 

 


I think this looks great as it is! Sure, there is some padding in the shoulders, but nothing too extreme. I wouldn't bring the waist in anymore either - already nice and slim.
post #209 of 5227
2011-10-12_18-30-44_693.jpg

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I received this SC from a gent in the UK. It is a Caruso Sartoria Parma, and the fabric/pattern is amazing. Obviously it needs some work to fit me. Is it possible to make it work?

The shirt is a Borrelli, and it has a spread collar.

Also, the pants are way too tight on me, I will be giving them away soon. I only wore them so the outline of the coat would be clearer.

Thank you for the help!

Edit: After many tries, it seems that I cannot edit out my face via photobucket. Even though my photobucket picture is saved cropped. (as is the one with the sink, the sink is not in my photobucket album) So I guess I'll leave it.
post #210 of 5227
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

After many tries, it seems that I cannot edit out my face via photobucket. Even though my photobucket picture is saved cropped. (as is the one with the sink, the sink is not in my photobucket album) So I guess I'll leave it.

I think this may be a Photobucket cookies/caching issue. I've seen the same behavior, but I don't think that other people can see the unedited image. Eventually, I see the edited image in the thread. You could check by viewing the thread from a different computer/phone.
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