Two more pictures here (low quality too, but a little bit big to share here) : http://imgur.com/a/WsGPq. How does it fit?
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 126post #1876 of 622910/4/12 at 3:35pm
Styleforum Top Pickspost #1877 of 622910/5/12 at 1:10amQuote:Originally Posted by whitefisk
Is it possible to alter a jacket to open the quarters more? I believe this is typically a balance issue, thus the front must be lengthened - take apart the jacket at the seam across the top of the shoulder and resew the fronts a bit lower? This sounds both high-risk and expensive but i dont believe 'cutting away' the coat below the 2nd button would produce the desired effect
If the balance is off you will have other problems, besides quarters closing. If the jacket looks good otherwise, quarters can be re-cut, my tailor has done it for me with good results in the past.post #1878 of 622910/5/12 at 3:01amQuote:
Does it matter whether or not the fabric is patterned? I asked a tailor to do this once (open the quarters of an otherwise well-fitting jacket) and he said it would do more harm than good. I didn't understand his explanation, but I got the impression that it had something to do with pattern-matching.post #1879 of 622910/5/12 at 6:19amQuote:Originally Posted by Threadbearer
Does it matter whether or not the fabric is patterned? I asked a tailor to do this once (open the quarters of an otherwise well-fitting jacket) and he said it would do more harm than good. I didn't understand his explanation, but I got the impression that it had something to do with pattern-matching.
The cloth pattern is irrelevant to adjusting the line of the fronts. His comment is more opinion.
It is an uncommon request for most tailors and he may not be comfortable doing this or maybe hasn't done it before. Better to show him a picture of what outcome you expect and he may offer a better explanation of why he would not want to recut the fronts.
Another thought. If the fronts are closed because of short fronts and the plaid pattern is scissoring, The vertical line of the plaid is forming a V instead of running parallel like this, II. It may accentuate the short front. His reasoning may be correct if this is the issue.post #1880 of 622910/5/12 at 7:33ampost #1881 of 622910/5/12 at 9:51ampost #1882 of 622910/5/12 at 1:23pm
Thanks for the suggestions, all. My tailor is bringing the sleeve up 1/4", and thinks that the fix around the collar will resolve most of the other fit issues with the jacket.
Black Lapel was willing to remake the pants with a wider leg opening and bringing in the seat 1/2" or so. So, in a few weeks, or whenever those show up, I will post updated pictures.post #1883 of 622910/5/12 at 7:26pmHey there... this is my first post in the "ask the tailors" thread. Regarding trousers my "formula" has always been: long rise, braces, cuffs, waistband a bit above the BB. Sooo... I thought that I'd shake things up with a less "formal" look: shorter rise, belt (that's more decorative than functional since I thought the pants should be able to rest on top of the hip without being cinched), plain hem, and waistband resting on the top of the hips. Here is the result. Uggh... First off I know they're too long. My problem is with the fit from waist to thigh. Mind you this shot was taken after a day at the office, but it still strikes me as a disaster with the double-wrinkle on the fly, the ripples on both sides, the creases just below the crotch on both legs, and the puckering pockets.
So, can this be fixed or am I better off going back to my comfort zone of pleats/cuffs/long-rise?post #1884 of 622910/5/12 at 8:05pmQuote:Originally Posted by OldManMachine
I just received my Benjamin Sartorial Classico in 38S. I would appreciate any help I can get regarding the fit. Hoping to get some help from the more experienced members here if I have the green light to bring this to a tailor to get altered (assuming that this is a suit worth keeping). The shirt that I'm wearing is a Brooks Brothers Non-Iron Slim Fit with a standard classic collar point (14-1/2; 32)
1)My main concern is the exposure of the shirt collar. Does it seem normal or would it be too much as the suit jacket sits a bit low. I do notice a slight collar gap, is this fixable?
2) I'm not very experienced as this is my 2nd suit, but would the distance between the lapel and point of the shirt collar be an issue or sign of improper fitment?
I know the pants will require hemming as well as shortening of the jacket sleeves. What recommendations would you suggest I pass along to my tailor to get done?Quote:Originally Posted by Despos
This is a tough one. There is a roll under the collar which most tailors would square the back shoulder and lower the collar to correct and that would make the relation of jacket to shirt collar worse. From the back view it shows the jacket hanging up on your shoulder blades, creating a hollow between the blades and contributing to the roll of cloth under the collar. I would square the front shoulder, distribute more fullness over the back part and leave the collar where it is. Maybe take in the center back seam 1/4". Squaring the front shoulder will help raise the collar in the back. All may be too technical but if you are in an area and can find a tailor experienced in making jackets, he can help you. The back is too big under the arms and could be taken in a bit thru the waist
The trouser waist seems too loose, have it taken in.
Would suggest trying other brands to see if these issues only show up with this maker. If you can avoid alterations like this, it's much better.Quote:Originally Posted by OldManMachine
Thank you for the advice and recommendations Despos, your help is greatly appreciated. I think I will follow through on your suggestion of trying other brands to see if the issue still exist. Because I'm inexperienced, I'm afraid to request the type of technical alterations that you have mentioned above.
I plan to use the measurements from this existing suit as a point of reference when searching for my next suit. A couple of questions if you don't mind answering:
1) Do you think I made the correction sizing selection of a 38S? or should I have gone down to a 36S?
2) Do the shoulders fit? The length of the shoulder from the sizing sheet is 17.6"
3) Did you see any issues regarding the collar gap and exposed shirt collar? Would a smaller size fixed this issue?
Thank you again!Quote:Originally Posted by Despos
A 38 will fit differently from other makers, some will be looser and others may be more fitted. It's by design of the maker. Trying them on is the best way to know what you like and works best for you. You may be a 38 in one brand, 40 in another and 36 somewhere else.
Shoulders are close enough to compare using this measurement.
The collar is a recurring issue with this brand. Until you try others, it's unknown if other jackets will fit you the same way.
@ Despos, I just received a 38S from Suit Supply, the pictures are below. The chest on this feels a lot larger even though it's only 1" of a difference from the Benjamin Sartorial. To me, the suit feels huge and baggy. What do you think about this fit? Keep it or keep trying? How do the shoulders look, since many people emphasis that the shoulders are the most critical area.post #1885 of 622910/6/12 at 9:22amQuote:Originally Posted by OldManMachine
@ Despos, I just received a 38S from Suit Supply, the pictures are below. The chest on this feels a lot larger even though it's only 1" of a difference from the Benjamin Sartorial. To me, the suit feels huge and baggy. What do you think about this fit? Keep it or keep trying? How do the shoulders look, since many people emphasis that the shoulders are the most critical area.
Agreed, this looks too big everywhere. It's either the wrong cut or the wrong size or both.post #1886 of 622910/6/12 at 9:46amQuote:
Thank you for your input Despos. For my own references, do you think the shoulders on this Suit Supply 38S fits me even though everything else is too big? The reason I ask is so I can keep in mind the measurement of the shoulders specifically to use while I continue searching for the better ft suit. (Assuming this one fits the shoulder correctly)
Also for clarification, IF we say the shoulder does fit, and everywhere else does not, I assume the suit is still not worth keeping and altering correct?
Thanks again!post #1887 of 622910/8/12 at 1:48amLooking for some feedback here.
I like my dress shirts' fit a lot until I bend my arms, even if its just to pick something up or type on my phone. When I do the sleeves become a bit too tight around my arms.
Would you say this is still acceptable? I'm going to size up one size anyway when buying shirts again.post #1888 of 622910/8/12 at 7:41amBump...
Hey there... this is my first post in the "ask the tailors" thread. Regarding trousers my "formula" has always been: long rise, braces, cuffs, waistband a bit above the BB. Sooo... I thought that I'd shake things up with a less "formal" look: shorter rise, belt (that's more decorative than functional since I thought the pants should be able to rest on top of the hip without being cinched), plain hem, and waistband resting on the top of the hips. Here is the result. Uggh... First off I know they're too long. My problem is with the fit from waist to thigh. Mind you this shot was taken after a day at the office, but it still strikes me as a disaster with the double-wrinkle on the fly, the ripples on both sides, the creases just below the crotch on both legs, and the puckering pockets.
So, can this be fixed or am I better off going back to my comfort zone of pleats/cuffs/long-rise?post #1889 of 622910/8/12 at 9:26amDespos/Atailor/Experts:
Recently, I was able to obtain this new suit for a great price — I knew there needs to be some alterations needed to be done (as with all OTRs) such as hemming the pants, tapering and shortening the sleeves, and possibly shortening the length of the jacket.
Now that I took photos, it turns out that the trousers need some work too, to remove the back "wrinkles" — how would this be fixed, raising/lowering the seat, or something else?
Also it looks like I might need to take in the back a little bit (I might hold off on this for a little bit, unless it's really bad).
Is the jacket length too long?
Apologies in advanced, for not wearing shoes in these photos and the cuffs not being fixed to the proper length (causing some sag at the bottom).
What needs to be done and how would it be done?
Thanks!post #1890 of 622910/8/12 at 6:11pm
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