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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 125

post #1861 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

I'm wondering the same thing.  Here is a picture of my recently arrived Classico, and I'm wondering about the gap in the collar at the right shoulder as well as how the collar is sitting in general.  I'm also wondering about the balance of the coat.  I have an erect posture, but the balance seems significantly more off than in my other jackets.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Just to close the loop on this.  I discovered that the front left side of the jacket is approximately 1/2 inch smaller in width than the right front side of the jacket (measured at the top button).  I'm not sure if this is the cause of the collar gap (which is one the wider side), but it definitely caused the jacket to pull to the left (non-gap) side so that even the top button of the jacket (when buttoned) was off center.  Going to return because I imagine this would be a very expensive repair that would never look quite right.

Don't worry about the collar gap. This is a size too big for you, try another size, maybe a short if this is a regular.
post #1862 of 5378
I have a question regarding the function of a specific seam situated at the back of the gorge on some peak-lapel jackets. The seam I'm thinking of is highlighted in red in the picture below. I'm guessing it's some sort of fastening seam, intended to keep the lapel in place, but it would be nice to know for sure.



My question is twofold:

1. What is the purpose of this seam?
2. I have a jacket on which one of the seams is starting to slouch. Do you recommend I remove both seams, or is it more advisable to have a tailor tighten the loose seam up?

Thanks in advance!
post #1863 of 5378
It is made with thread to keep the peak in place as you say. Not much will happen if you do nothing but your tailor can redo this. This thread tends to come loose from movement of the lapel and collar.
post #1864 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Don't worry about the collar gap. This is a size too big for you, try another size, maybe a short if this is a regular.

 

I tried one size down the first go around, but it was too tight in the chest and shoulders and resulted in bowing of the lapels (see picture below).  I have a large chest and shoulders and my current workaround is to buy something that fits the chest and then have it taken in at the back center seam or elsewhere. 

 

As for length, this is a Long.  Unfortunately, I have yet to find a Regular that is long enough or sits right with the buttoning point, so I always have to go with a Long.  I try to find Longs that are on the shorter side, but that is hit or miss.  This one covers my backside, but I agree it is a little long.

 

 

 

 

post #1865 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

It is made with thread to keep the peak in place as you say. Not much will happen if you do nothing but your tailor can redo this. This thread tends to come loose from movement of the lapel and collar.

OK, good to know. Thanks for the speedy answer!
post #1866 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Wrinkles on the left side are from your low left shoulder. Sleeves can be made longer if you have enough outlet. Trousers seem snug, especially the thigh area.
Is this suit comfortable?

 

The pants will definetely be exhance for a 36 just to feel more comfortable. The overall jacket feels great though so if there isn't much I can do about the low left shoulder, then I may have to deal with it. Can a tailor do anything to smooth out those wrinkles somehow? (anything with the sleevehead?) I guess what I'm getting at is if there is enough material to lengthen the arms by a bit (will post a picture of the inside wrist area), does it fit well enough to keep, or should I keep looking?

post #1867 of 5378
Most times you can find at least an inch of length on the sleeve, sometimes more.

Easiest fix for a low shoulder is to add a pad to the shoulder. Recutting for a low shoulder means removing the sleeve and is much more work. It has nothing to do with the sleeve head and the only way to clean up the wrinkles is to adjust for your shoulder.

Change the trouser and keep the suit unless you are unhappy with it. You will have the low shoulder issue on any suit you buy.
post #1868 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Don't worry about the collar gap. This is a size too big for you, try another size, maybe a short if this is a regular.

I tried one size down the first go around, but it was too tight in the chest and shoulders and resulted in bowing of the lapels (see picture below).  I have a large chest and shoulders and my current workaround is to buy something that fits the chest and then have it taken in at the back center seam or elsewhere. 

As for length, this is a Long.  Unfortunately, I have yet to find a Regular that is long enough or sits right with the buttoning point, so I always have to go with a Long.  I try to find Longs that are on the shorter side, but that is hit or miss.  This one covers my backside, but I agree it is a little long.



Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

You need a bigger chest between the lapel and armhole area, not under the arms and narrow shoulder. Keep trying different makers.
post #1869 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitefisk View Post

Oops, should have posted 'medium' pics, not 'large', im taking up the whole bloody page!

the larger pics make it easier for us to see.
post #1870 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivar View Post

I have a question regarding the function of a specific seam situated at the back of the gorge on some peak-lapel jackets. The seam I'm thinking of is highlighted in red in the picture below. I'm guessing it's some sort of fastening seam, intended to keep the lapel in place, but it would be nice to know for sure.

My question is twofold:
1. What is the purpose of this seam?
2. I have a jacket on which one of the seams is starting to slouch. Do you recommend I remove both seams, or is it more advisable to have a tailor tighten the loose seam up?
Thanks in advance!

that peak should not bend over. ready to wear peaks will do that .
so that bit of thread is there to hold up the peak.
on custom made coats that thread is not needed.
post #1871 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by wyardley View Post

They have 3 standard cuts, so I think the proportions are set by their pattern based on your measurements. This is the "tailored" cut (in between their traditional cut and their slim cut). I was afraid that the traditional cut would be too big, even when made to my measurements, and their slim cut is a little more fashion forward than I was looking for.

What kind of cut do you think would be most flattering? I'm 6' / 140 lb.


Yes - that part is probably my fault - I should have read more carefully their description of their "tailored fit", because they do note somewhere on the site that it has a more tapered leg -- something that can't be helped this time around. The other suits I have are all a couple of inches bigger in diameter at the bottom leg opening, and break the way I like. Their customer support mentioned that the tailor should be able to "open up the leg", but it doesn't look to me like that's possible at all (not much extra material).

One of the suspender adjusters is actually off a little, so that may also be part of why the right side looks a bit off (it's interesting, the low right shoulder is more obvious in the photos than in a mirror, or I would have included it in my measurements).
I think I understand what you mean here.... It seems like it can hang a little bit more open, so not sure why it shows up that closed there.

As far as taking in the collar a bit, does that involve the center seam in the back, the darts? Both?


looks like customer support is not well informed.

Ideally, if there is cloth under neath the collar moving and shortening would do it.
but when the tailor looks under there , it may be just a bare seam holding it.
then taking in the center back is the only hope.
but that will shorten the distance across from shoulder point to point.
and the jacket iy still too short.
post #1872 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitefisk View Post

Gents

Take 2 of a MTM attempt.

The main thing to fix is the trouser rise, when i sit down there is loads of excess material in my lap and the crotch doesnt need to be as low as it is.
I also think the chest, just below the armholes, is a bit bulky, going to ask my tailor if that can be adjusted at the seams (wont adjust at the armholes, too much work!) and maybe a touch more waist suppression.

As always thank you very much for the advice

















does take 2 mean that a remake suit was cut, or was it altered?
also did someone measure you , or did you do it?

yes when the rise is too long{deep} it adds to the bulk in front when sitting.
to find out how much too long., do this.
stand on a hard floor feet 6 " apart and look straight ahead .
cinch up your belt in the loops to the degree you prefer.
have someone measure from the top of the trouser to the floor .
now loosen the belt and grasping the waist band raise the trouser
so that the crotch is as high as is comfortable.
now measure from the top of the waist band to the floor.
the difference between measures is how much the trousers
rise is too deep.
if its more than an inch then you need a new trouser.
to understand go to the tutorials scroll to "altering the rise".
also tutorial"that pesky roll below the collar".
thats needed also.
and the jacket is about an inch too short.
post #1873 of 5378
Raffaelle Caruso fresh out of the shipping box. I got it for a song.

I have erect posture and the balance is off on this jacket. However, I'm thinking the suit can be acceptable with some minor adjustments. (Sleeves, collar, hemming, and tapering the pants legs from a 9.15 leg opening to 8.5)

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?111624-BALANCE-EXPLAINED&s=7812ad14eafb2ef25bf1854e2e61cdec

I'm putting this to a vote: keep it or sell it?


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Edited by jrd617 - 10/3/12 at 5:53pm
post #1874 of 5378

Quick question:

 

Is it possible to alter a jacket to open the quarters more? I believe this is typically a balance issue, thus the front must be lengthened - take apart the jacket at the seam across the top of the shoulder and resew the fronts a bit lower? This sounds both high-risk and expensive but i dont believe 'cutting away' the coat below the 2nd button would produce the desired effect 

post #1875 of 5378

nvm, got answers in SW&D


Edited by kindofyoung - 10/4/12 at 11:05am
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