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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 122

post #1816 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

I'm wondering the same thing.  Here is a picture of my recently arrived Classico, and I'm wondering about the gap in the collar at the right shoulder as well as how the collar is sitting in general.  I'm also wondering about the balance of the coat.  I have an erect posture, but the balance seems significantly more off than in my other jackets.






Way too much collar gap on the right side. This seems odd . I mean if there was collar gap would've on the both side equally. Manufacturing fault maybe ?
post #1817 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by pack66 View Post

Hello Tailors.  I'm looking for advice on my first made-to-measure suit.  I apologize for the poor photographs (partly due to my wife, but don't tell her that...and partly due to the poor camera on the phone). Also, please note that the suit was just taken out of the box when the pictures were taken. There seems to be enough room in coat, but I admittedly do not have a sartorial eye.  Please do what you can with the poor quality of the photographs.  I do plan to see a tailor recommended on this site for any corrections if they can be made locally...if not a remake will have to do.

Thanks in advance, J.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








Additionally, the suit came with a fitted shirt.  If this is the wrong forum for discussing shirt fit, please excuse and ignore.





Jacket seams a little big all over, not much, just a little. Need the roll under the collar fixed but they need to do a really good job discerning what is causing the roll. You already have some bumps in the right shoulder that need to be corrected when they fix the roll. Sleeves are too long but measure for that after they work on the shoulder. I think the jacket would be better 1/2" longer. Not sure if they cut for your high right hip. Back trouser rise is off so you get the wrinkles under your seat.
Shirt sleeves are way too long. The left cuff is OK because you are wearing a watch but the right cuff is too loose. Yoke appears to be too wide.
post #1818 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManMachine View Post

How tall are you swimgood? I recently purchased a solid navy blue benjamin classico as well, but it isn't arriving until tomorrow. I went with a 38S and I'm 5' 7".

After I made the purchase, I noticed from past threads that people had collar issues with the benjamin classico where the suit jacket sat very low, exposing around 1.5" to 2" of the shirt collar from the side and back.

Your photos do look like the shirt collar is shown a lot, but I'm not sure if this really is an issue or not as I'm not very experienced. Mmaybe someone here more experienced can chime in on that based on your photos.

I'm wondering the same thing.  Here is a picture of my recently arrived Classico, and I'm wondering about the gap in the collar at the right shoulder as well as how the collar is sitting in general.  I'm also wondering about the balance of the coat.  I have an erect posture, but the balance seems significantly more off than in my other jackets. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






jacket looks too big on you and a little long. The jacket may not be sitting on your shoulders correctly to judge the fit of the collar. Other causes are had to tell form these pictures.
post #1819 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


jacket looks too big on you and a little long. The jacket may not be sitting on your shoulders correctly to judge the fit of the collar. Other causes are had to tell form these pictures.

 

I'll see if I can get better pictures when I'm in the office on Monday.  As for length, this is one of the better jackets for me as I am 6"2 and in between a R (sleeves aren't long enough and buttoning point looks off) and a L (jackets are always on the long side on me).  Add in my erect posture and large chest from lifting weights and I am frequently baldy[1].gif  .  I generally have to buy something large enough to fit my chest and shoulders and then have it taken in on the back seam.  This jacket seems to fit better than most at the pre-alterations stage, but I'm concerned the collar gap may not be fixable or a symptom of a bigger fit problem.  I'll post better pictures on Monday.

post #1820 of 5376

Thanks Despos.  It's an Indochino...should I send it back for a remake or is this something I can have done by a local tailor?  I noticed one more thing.  I asked for high armholes and I don't think they gave them to me.  Although they are higher than my other suits.

post #1821 of 5376

I just received my Benjamin Sartorial Classico in 38S. I would appreciate any help I can get regarding the fit. Hoping to get some help from the more experienced members here if I have the green light to bring this to a tailor to get altered (assuming that this is a suit worth keeping). The shirt that I'm wearing is a Brooks Brothers Non-Iron Slim Fit with a standard classic collar point (14-1/2; 32)

 

1)My main concern is the exposure of the shirt collar. Does it seem normal or would it be too much as the suit jacket sits a bit low. I do notice a slight collar gap, is this fixable?

2) I'm not very experienced as this is my 2nd suit, but would the distance between the lapel and point of the shirt collar be an issue or sign of improper fitment?
 

I know the pants will require hemming as well as shortening of the jacket sleeves. What recommendations would you suggest I pass along to my tailor to get done?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by OldManMachine - 9/28/12 at 10:12pm
post #1822 of 5376

Assuming I need a full on shoulder reoconstructing for this MTM suit? Good thing is my guy is covering all alteration costs... not sure if it's poor measurements or maybe just that I have very uneven shoulders... 

 

Any advice would be much appreciated, but pretty sure I'm headed toward reconstructing the shoulder. I actually like the way the rest of the suit fits in terms of length, tapered to the body, etc (I've since shortened the pants a little so the break isn't as bad as the pictures below)... but I'll take any advice from the experts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #1823 of 5376
The last close up pictures are the only helpful pictures and reveal more issues. There is some twist in the shoulder. Besides narrowing the shoulder width, it looks like you may have to square the shoulder and put more fullness over the shoulder blades.You want to find a very good tailor that can refit and fit and remake the shoulder and then fit and recut the sleeves. You need workmanship that is at a higher level than the suit is made to correct this.

Are these the same pictures you first posted or are these after they worked on the suit?
post #1824 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManMachine View Post

I just received my Benjamin Sartorial Classico in 38S. I would appreciate any help I can get regarding the fit. Hoping to get some help from the more experienced members here if I have the green light to bring this to a tailor to get altered (assuming that this is a suit worth keeping). The shirt that I'm wearing is a Brooks Brothers Non-Iron Slim Fit with a standard classic collar point (14-1/2; 32)

1)My main concern is the exposure of the shirt collar. Does it seem normal or would it be too much as the suit jacket sits a bit low. I do notice a slight collar gap, is this fixable?
2) I'm not very experienced as this is my 2nd suit, but would the distance between the lapel and point of the shirt collar be an issue or sign of improper fitment?

 
I know the pants will require hemming as well as shortening of the jacket sleeves. What recommendations would you suggest I pass along to my tailor to get done?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





















This is a tough one. There is a roll under the collar which most tailors would square the back shoulder and lower the collar to correct and that would make the relation of jacket to shirt collar worse. From the back view it shows the jacket hanging up on your shoulder blades, creating a hollow between the blades and contributing to the roll of cloth under the collar. I would square the front shoulder, distribute more fullness over the back part and leave the collar where it is. Maybe take in the center back seam 1/4". Squaring the front shoulder will help raise the collar in the back. All may be too technical but if you are in an area and can find a tailor experienced in making jackets, he can help you. The back is too big under the arms and could be taken in a bit thru the waist

The trouser waist seems too loose, have it taken in.

Would suggest trying other brands to see if these issues only show up with this maker. If you can avoid alterations like this, it's much better.
post #1825 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


This is a tough one. There is a roll under the collar which most tailors would square the back shoulder and lower the collar to correct and that would make the relation of jacket to shirt collar worse. From the back view it shows the jacket hanging up on your shoulder blades, creating a hollow between the blades and contributing to the roll of cloth under the collar. I would square the front shoulder, distribute more fullness over the back part and leave the collar where it is. Maybe take in the center back seam 1/4". Squaring the front shoulder will help raise the collar in the back. All may be too technical but if you are in an area and can find a tailor experienced in making jackets, he can help you. The back is too big under the arms and could be taken in a bit thru the waist
The trouser waist seems too loose, have it taken in.
Would suggest trying other brands to see if these issues only show up with this maker. If you can avoid alterations like this, it's much better.


Thank you for the advice and recommendations Despos, your help is greatly appreciated. I think I will follow through on your suggestion of trying other brands to see if the issue still exist. Because I'm inexperienced, I'm afraid to request the type of technical alterations that you have mentioned above.

 

I plan to use the measurements from this existing suit as a point of reference when searching for my next suit. A couple of questions if you don't mind answering:

1) Do you think I made the correction sizing selection of a 38S? or should I have gone down to a 36S?

2) Do the shoulders fit? The length of the shoulder from the sizing sheet is 17.6"

3) Did you see any issues regarding the collar gap and exposed shirt collar? Would a smaller size fixed this issue?

 

Thank you again!

post #1826 of 5376
Quote:
I plan to use the measurements from this existing suit as a point of reference when searching for my next suit. A couple of questions if you don't mind answering:
1) Do you think I made the correction sizing selection of a 38S? or should I have gone down to a 36S?
2) Do the shoulders fit? The length of the shoulder from the sizing sheet is 17.6"
3) Did you see any issues regarding the collar gap and exposed shirt collar? Would a smaller size fixed this issue?

A 38 will fit differently from other makers, some will be looser and others may be more fitted. It's by design of the maker. Trying them on is the best way to know what you like and works best for you. You may be a 38 in one brand, 40 in another and 36 somewhere else.

Shoulders are close enough to compare using this measurement.

The collar is a recurring issue with this brand. Until you try others, it's unknown if other jackets will fit you the same way.
post #1827 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The last close up pictures are the only helpful pictures and reveal more issues. There is some twist in the shoulder. Besides narrowing the shoulder width, it looks like you may have to square the shoulder and put more fullness over the shoulder blades.You want to find a very good tailor that can refit and fit and remake the shoulder and then fit and recut the sleeves. You need workmanship that is at a higher level than the suit is made to correct this.
Are these the same pictures you first posted or are these after they worked on the suit?

 

The last 2 pics are the ones after one tailor tried just trimming the shoulders (it obviously did nothing...)

So, we're taking it to an Italian tailor to reconstruct the shoulder on Monday. Here's a few more pics of how the suit looks currently as well (sorry, no idea why some are rotated). I don't really mind anything but the left shoulder to be honest. I mean is this a me issue? Meaning, do I just have really uneven shoulders? Or do you think this was a measurement issue? (the guy took all my measurements) It looks like the left shoulder is easily an inch too long. 

 

 

 

 

 

post #1828 of 5376
Edit: Please see next page for new fit pics with a better-fitting shirt.


This is my latest MTM creation from Tony Paranzino. I can see now that my shirt sleeves are too long and are going to make it difficult to judge jacket sleeve length. Setting that aside, what tweaks would you gentlemen recommend for my next MTM jacket from Tony -- or for this jacket, for that matter?

Does anyone think that the jacket's collar should stand up a little taller against the back of my neck?

OpenFront.jpg
The Robo-Poses (Click to show)
Front-35.jpg
Left-5.jpg
Right-5.jpg
Back-6.jpg
That's a breeze blowing the left vent open.
Yummy fabric closeup (Click to show)
Holland & Sherry
Closeup-165.jpg

Edited by Threadbearer - 9/30/12 at 11:18am
post #1829 of 5376
I think is one of the best-fitting coats you've shown us! I look forward to seeing how you work it into your daily rotation.

The sleeve length looks spot-on to me. Move the button on that barrel cuff, and you're cookin' with gas.
post #1830 of 5376
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I think is one of the best-fitting coats you've shown us

I agree, sb. I think Tony's got me pretty well dialed in now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Move the button on that barrel cuff, and you're cookin' with gas.

I'm not following you here. Please elaborate.
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