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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 120

post #1786 of 5337
Everybody has an opinion. What sources are you using?

Did this happen on your suit when you used steam?
post #1787 of 5337
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbernard View Post

Seems a little ridiculous that everything says you should steam your suit to remove wrinkles.

Everything except the guys who actually make the stuff, and we all seem to agree that steaming is bad. Funny, that.
post #1788 of 5337

The experts speak!  What would you do about wrinkles? We know not to send them to the cleaners, and now we know the hot shower is out. Perhaps we just become more accepting of wrinkles...

post #1789 of 5337
I use an iron.
post #1790 of 5337
Breguet in your avatar? Love their elegant look.

Using steam without heat and pressure is like adding a liquid to your batter but not stirring followed by not baking the batter and expecting the proper result.

Pressing is how you maintain clothing and for a better made garment or a garment with more shape, the better qualified the presser should be. Pressing requires as much skill, maybe more skill as any other operation in tailoring. No exaggeration.

I rarely press my own clothing except to put a crease in the trouser and get rid of wrinkles in the thigh area. Jackets get a press to shrink in the collar and get rid of wrinkles on the back part of the jacket and I do this myself. If you have a good relationship with your tailor, he may be a resource for this.

Have wanted to put a tutorial on here about touching up or how to press trousers for at least a year but haven't gotten around to it. WIll try to do it soon and you will be able to clean up the wrinkles on your trousers at home.
post #1791 of 5337

Thanks, Chris and Jeff. Seems you agree on pressing. I can only suppose that the temp of the iron should be less than you would use on a cotton shirt. I admit that I am sort of afraid to try it.

 

How do you feel about those trouser pressers (as made by Corby for instance)?

 

A tutorial would be welcomed as your time allows.  Many thanks.

 

PS-I love my Breguet. I have to say that it sometimes feel a little diminutive compared to some of my others (newest is an Archimedes), but it is elegant and understated. 

post #1792 of 5337

I want to start getting mtm shirts, and my understanding is it's best to use measurements from existing shirts rather than body measurements. That given, how would you adjust this shirt to get a good fit, it's currently my best fit.

post #1793 of 5337

I'm a first time poster on here, but I've already found a lot of the advice throughout the site very helpful. Helping me in my transition from having poor style to better style at least. Anyways, I need to get a new suit right away, and I posted pictures on page 119 (sorry, some of them are sideways, and I don't know why or how to fix them!) - if anyone can give me some advice on fit, and how I should alter it to fit better I would appreciate it. What to look for in getting the next suit would be even more helpful. Thanks!

post #1794 of 5337
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyD View Post

I'm a first time poster on here, but I've already found a lot of the advice throughout the site very helpful. Helping me in my transition from having poor style to better style at least. Anyways, I need to get a new suit right away, and I posted pictures on page 119 (sorry, some of them are sideways, and I don't know why or how to fix them!) - if anyone can give me some advice on fit, and how I should alter it to fit better I would appreciate it. What to look for in getting the next suit would be even more helpful. Thanks!

Jacket looks a bit big in the upper areas, shoulder too wide, blade area too big, chest too big. Balance is good, back is a touch short but I wouldn't fool with it. Would suggest a higher rise, these look like they won't stay up. Higher rise helps this. The back of the trouser needs to be lifted to remove the wrinkling on the back part. Trouser length can be shorter.
post #1795 of 5337
Quote:
Originally Posted by James77 View Post

Hi guys I need some help and advice regarding the following jackets/suit. With all of them, to me, it seems like the jackets are making me look more stocky than I am. Am a wearing the wrong style for my body? Can any of the jackets/suit be fixed with tailoring? With all of the photos clock on them to get the fill size.
I'll start with just some pics of me in a fitted T and yoga pants so you can get an idea of my natural body shape. I have a low left shoulder, narrow waist and a big bum.
7915408098_a2c7a434db_n.jpg 7915407702_04a67aaf0c_n.jpg 7915407284_10907faa20_n.jpg
This is the first jacket, it is an MTM I had done by a local tailor. For what ever reason it makes my hips look huge. I also think the shoulders could be narrowed a bit and the sleeves shortened by about 1/4". The left lapel bows out from my chest which I think is because of the low shoulder. I think the shoulders in this are too square. I asked the tailor about removing some of the padding from them but he was very resistant saying that it would ruin the crispness of the fabric if he did so.
7915400144_d3abf9af9e_n.jpg 7915401108_fe3146b4c6_n.jpg 7915401514_95301173c8_n.jpg 7915402004_ed2f5eec2e_n.jpg
The second jacket is an OTR 3 roll 2 from Brooks Brothers. There is much less padding in the shoulder which helps with the squareness problem I was having in the previous jacket. The waist needs to be brought in and the sleeves shortened as well as the roll at the back of the neck being dealt with. Anything else?
7915403786_9d161915d4_n.jpg 7915402506_970aea5933_n.jpg 7915402954_0127611d5a_n.jpg 7915403444_4137317d8d_n.jpg
The last one is a 3 button suit that I've had for years. It is it possible to turn it into a 3 roll 2? There's quite a bit of padding in the shoulders f this jacket as well. It even comes down the outside of my shoulder a bit. The jacket is also much too long, and needs the waist taking in and sleeves taking up. The pants I think need tapering as there seems to be a tonne of material in them and the openings are really wide.
7915406836_b760f5da1e_n.jpg 7915406064_f28851126d_n.jpg 7915405724_97513f6b1b_n.jpg 7915406442_a61bd1bc6a_n.jpg
7915405304_3a2aa17939_n.jpg 7915404198_0ce6521d34_n.jpg 7915404586_4a05ce86e6_n.jpg
This turned out to be quite a bit post. Thanks in advance for any help and advice you can provide.

I think your doing it right. I have a old suit that fits like your last one. Maybe i will try to fix it up too!

post #1796 of 5337
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrensonMan View Post

Just got my MTM shirt in the mail. First things I noticed; There is a crease around the yoke that I believe stems from the tightness of the fit. The shoulders could be lengthened 1/4''. There is some bunching around the rib cage. The chest is a bit tight. Considering that I haven't washed it yet, theses issues will only be magnified. Your suggestions are appreciated.

 

 

Regards,

GrensonMan

From my experience. the excess material in your back if from the back setting. You have a straight back and material from the back should get cut out. Everything else i can see in the photo looks fine. make sure you wash it a few time first tho

post #1797 of 5337
Thought I would update my earlier post. I took the sport coat from Brooks Brothers in to have work done. I had the sleeves shortened, shoulders narrowed, waist supressed and the material under the collar removed. It's not perfect, but I think an improvement. I'm happy with it.
Here is the before
7915403786_9d161915d4_n.jpg 7915402954_0127611d5a_n.jpg

And after
8017387990_07cdea24da.jpg 8017384907_f9154557c9.jpg


Here is another suit I have from my brothers wedding years ago. (just wearing the jacket). Same issues I think as before. Too long, sleeves need shortening. waist needs taking in, and the shoulders need taking in.
8017384725_2d9d6f21df.jpg 8017387232_f8c64fc316.jpg 8017384445_f0dbc19076.jpg 8017386954_72dc160fc2.jpg
post #1798 of 5337

I would hazard to guess that you need to let out the small of your back and rotate your sleeves.

post #1799 of 5337
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaaPanf View Post

I think your doing it right. I have a old suit that fits like your last one. Maybe i will try to fix it up too!

Thanks, I'm am trying to work with what I have and use it as a learning process as to what works for me and what doesn't. I figure that way, when I buy new things or have them made for me I am more aware of what I want/will fit me right and I can reduce the amount of tailoring needed.
post #1800 of 5337

Thrifted a nice J Press sport coat. Length of the coat and arms are spot on. Can the waist be nipped a bit without having the front parts fly open? My main concern is that the shoulders are a little too wide, causing bunching in the upper back. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

 

 

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