The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 12

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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/8/11 at 5:54am

lets all get busy now. the ash trays in my present jet are full so that i need to get a new one.
something with four engines instead of the measly two on the one i have now.

yes it can be done.

Thank you for doing this thread! This kind of the thing is the reason I visit the forum!

Should a suit always fit at the natural shoulders?



I have a long and slim neck and disproportionately broad shoulders, but thin if you turn me sideways. The following picture is my MTM TaT suit that is on my natural shoulder, but if you look at the body, the chest looks huge on me. It does lay against my body but it looks like I'm wearing a huge suit that didn't fit. I did a little photoshop to bring in the arms, but if i do that it definitely won't be at my natural shoulders. So my question is, is it alright to go with a narrower shoulder in order to balance out the long neck? Or should I just power clean like crazy until my neck/lats get bigger?




My measurements:

neck: 16
shoulder: 18
chest: 40
waist: 35
hips: 40

Here's a picture of my shoulders/neck with me sitting straight up:


Help me Styleforum! You're my only hope!

I'd also love some feedback, too, on this jacket. Have been working with the same tailor for some time now, in New Delhi, but am not quite sure how I feel about the results. For perspective, I'm on the shorter size, at around 5' 7", and am somewhat skinny. Often I feel like clothes have a bit of a circus tent feel! Then again, I am open to the notion that I may just be pickey.

 

On this particular jacket, I feel like the shoulders have a bit more padding than I'd like, and wonder if the cut is too loose. Particularly, I wonder if further waist supression is in order, or even something more drastic. Would love any feedback / suggestions for future trials!

 

 

 

hi bwong
since this is a m2m garment, tell us was this measured by a tailor or by yourself?
the jacket looks short but that may be caused by the trousers that seem to be hanging down on your hips.
can you give us back and both side views? the clearer and more detailed the better.
all i can say right now is that you have a left low shoulder.

This is an interesting view; are you serious?

Please wear shoes.

Tailor will measure from the top of the waistband to the floor at the center back and center front to determine the difference of front to back height and apply this to the cutting by manipulating the pattern. For you, the back height of the trouser needs to be lowered and the seat line reshaped. The outseam of the back part needs to be straightened too. That picks the trouser up in the back and cleans up the breaking/wrinkling. When cutting the trousers it is simple but there are restrictions to adjusting a finished trouser this way that make it very difficult to alter.

I am working on a post to diagram this.

Sorry to hear of your depression. This is an issue with ordering MTM or bespoke. You are ordering clothes in an intangible way. You don't have the advantage of trying the garment on like RTW and are only discussing your likes and dislikes. Plenty of opportunity for miscommunication or misunderstanding. Apparently from what you describe your expectation was to have a jacket shaped like PG. There are so many factors that determine the outcome. Tailor's cutting style, methods and shaping techniques paired to your body type and proportion are the most relevant. If this jacket and trouser were made from your measurements, finished and sent to you, I would give it a C. It has balance issues on the jacket and trouser that are common on most garments posted here. If this tailor offers basted fittings without pockets that would be an advantage as you have the benefit of seeing the jacket on you to diagnose the fit and styling issues while they can still be incorporated into the making. The way PG's jackets are cut may not work the same on your body type and the tailor will have to change the proportions to achieve anything close to the look you want. This may or may not be possible going MTM or you may have to try several tailors to find someone that can.
The "dimples" and such on the shoulder are from both fitting and construction and your low shoulder is the most basic/simple/common adjustments for any tailor to make.

I wish I was Ann Landers and could offer a specific answer. Finding which silhouette works best is not a formula. Your shoulder structure, posture, proportion, personality and preferences are important factors and cannot be determined from your describing these over the internet. You are ahead of the game because you are aware of the styling differences. Keep trying on clothes to expand your awareness of how the cut/styling look on you and decide what you like.

whenever i wear pants and sit down, the crotch pulls up and i get moose knuckle. how do i prevent this? get a pair of pants with a longer back rise? looser thighs/knees?

i think i understand moose knuckle, the cloth that sticks up when you sit?

lets say that the distance from the crotch up to the waist is 12 inches.
but when you sit your body folds and the same distance becomes only 6 inches.
and the cloth becomes the moose knuckle.
you could make a huge clown pant and still get a little of that problem.

or the waist band can be lowered at the front fly. but that will only be a partial fix.
you will still get a smaller knuckle, but also a smaller zipper opening.

experiment: take several pins. sit down and use the pins to secure the fold of cloth
as if the front were being shortened. now stand up and i think you will understand.

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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/10/11 at 1:54pm