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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 76

post #1126 of 5149

Hey everyone,

 

I picked up a Suitsupply Jort recently and wanted to get some opinions on fit/look. I've been reading this forum a bit but I've never bought a nice suit before, so some advice would be great. This suit hasn't been tailored yet. I'm planning on buying some darker brown double monks to go with this, does that sound alright? Thanks for the help!

 

 

SuitsupplyFit1.jpg
 
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post #1127 of 5149
^ Fwiw I think it looks good. Maybe a bit tight across the back but I am no tailor. May i suggest getting some brown lace ups if you don't have them before the monks. Not saying you don;t have them but if you don't that is..
post #1128 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Here is a front and side view of the same trousers draping "correctly". Given how I'm shaped I'm not sure anything could be done to make future purchases look better other than dropping some more "love" off these love handles... smile.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
297x700px-LL-c9d2f513_pants2.jpeg 274x700px-LL-4c995d2b_pants1.jpeg

The trousers are fine unless you are as OCD as I am. Have the back hem dropped down. Looks better over your shoe when the hem is sloped/angled longer in the back. Take in the back part on the out seam from the waistband to mid thigh. Back part only, 1/4 to 3/8" just to smooth out the line and get rid of the little bulge at the bottom of the front pocket. These comments are optional, trouser looks fine as is.
post #1129 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilTuna7 View Post

Hey everyone,

I picked up a Suitsupply Jort recently and wanted to get some opinions on fit/look. I've been reading this forum a bit but I've never bought a nice suit before, so some advice would be great. This suit hasn't been tailored yet. I'm planning on buying some darker brown double monks to go with this, does that sound alright? Thanks for the help!

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x233px-LL-79118d4f_SuitsupplyFit1.jpeg
 
350x233px-LL-b1ca3cd0_SuitsupplyFit2.jpeg
 
350x233px-LL-54bca389_SuitsupplyFit3.jpeg
 
350x233px-LL-f248cfb6_SuitsupplyFit4.jpeg
 
350x233px-LL-b468c1b0_SuitsupplyFit5.jpeg
 
350x233px-LL-b74a9bcf_SuitsupplyFit6.jpeg

Nice Jort. Looks fine at this camera angle but I don't get any idea of how it actually fits you from pictures at this distance.
post #1130 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs232 View Post


Thanks Chris. Yes, I'm making it. I have attempted to change a few things (let the fronts out at the shoulders, reduced shoulder inlays to 1cm, basted darts properly. Still having problems with the back - I fiddled with the scye a little, but I think it's still causing drags. Here's a brightened shot in better light - can't zoom out enough for full length in the small room. Still raining outside; I'll try to do proper shots tomorrow. Overlap/wrap is 13cm edge to edge. I've taken the pins out of the back and removed 0,5cm from each side instead

0eYSF.jpg

These lightened up pictures help to see more. Few questions/comments for you. This is a very ambitious project.

The balance is different now, fronts are still short even though you dropped the fronts down from the shoulder. Time to shorten the back from the top of the shoulder, start by reducing by 1/2". This will lift the back off your hips and bring more cloth from the front to the back. Then you can shape the waist more and get some waist definition.
Are you shortening the jacket to the horizontal line just above the hem? Looks about right.
What are the two horizontal lines on the canvass about 1/3rd up on the lapels from the buttoning point ? You made your own canvass, correct?
It's hard to judge how much, but the back is too wide across the blades and upper back, shoulders too. You might need to slope either the front or back shoulder 1/4" to clean up the blade but wait until you baste a sleeve to determine this.
What are the basting threads along the center back seam there for?
The front darts are located too much to the side/back. Would be better if you move them towards the front edge. Usually the dart is centered under the breast pocket.
Does this pattern use a side body?
The overlap is fine, it puts the button about 11.5 cm from the edge. I like a bit more and would add about 1 cm to the front edge. Get the jacket balanced before trimming the front edge. As the balance changes so does the overlap.
post #1131 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Nice Jort. Looks fine at this camera angle but I don't get any idea of how it actually fits you from pictures at this distance.

Alright, is this any better? I noticed that the collar of the jacket isn't sitting perfectly on my neck/shoulder but im not sure if that's an issue with the suit or i just didn't properly settle (for lack of a better word) the suit when i put it on. Thanks again for your help!

 

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post #1132 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Nice Jort. Looks fine at this camera angle but I don't get any idea of how it actually fits you from pictures at this distance.

 

Alright, do these help more? I noticed the collar of the suit isn't resting perfectly on my neck/shoulder but I don't know if that's an issue with the suit or i just didn't let the suit settle properly (for lack of a better word) when I put it on. Thanks a lot!

 

SuitsupplySuitSet21of6.jpg

 

SuitsupplySuitSet22of6.jpg

 

SuitsupplySuitSet23of6.jpg

 

SuitsupplySuitSet24of6.jpg

 

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SuitsupplySuitSet26of6.jpg

post #1133 of 5149
Yes, new pictures are better. You need some shoulder/collar work in two different ways. You may have squarish shoulders and need the shoulder squared, This means the jacket shoulder slope is more than the slope of your shoulder and the collar stands up off your neck. You also have an erect posture and that could be contributing. This requires removing more off the back shoulder than the front shoulder.
A good tailor will diagnose and can fix this. Depending on the degree of adjustment needed on the shoulders, you may need the collar shortened.
post #1134 of 5149

gents

 

i swear this suit fit better when i first got it but perhaps its loosened up a bit with use or maybe ive changed shape slightly, regardless ive got some fit issues now. i wont guide the conversation but i want to know what to tell me tailor to get a better fit

 

thanks in advance 

 

CameraZOOM-20120610131129600.jpgCameraZOOM-20120610131233994.jpgCameraZOOM-20120610131322948.jpgCameraZOOM-20120610131413297.jpgCameraZOOM-20120610131759812.jpg i dont think i'll get any love for these shoes but i thought id include 'em for funzies

post #1135 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

These lightened up pictures help to see more. Few questions/comments for you. This is a very ambitious project.
The balance is different now, fronts are still short even though you dropped the fronts down from the shoulder. Time to shorten the back from the top of the shoulder, start by reducing by 1/2". This will lift the back off your hips and bring more cloth from the front to the back. Then you can shape the waist more and get some waist definition.
Are you shortening the jacket to the horizontal line just above the hem? Looks about right.
What are the two horizontal lines on the canvass about 1/3rd up on the lapels from the buttoning point ? You made your own canvass, correct?
It's hard to judge how much, but the back is too wide across the blades and upper back, shoulders too. You might need to slope either the front or back shoulder 1/4" to clean up the blade but wait until you baste a sleeve to determine this.
What are the basting threads along the center back seam there for?
The front darts are located too much to the side/back. Would be better if you move them towards the front edge. Usually the dart is centered under the breast pocket.
Does this pattern use a side body?
The overlap is fine, it puts the button about 11.5 cm from the edge. I like a bit more and would add about 1 cm to the front edge. Get the jacket balanced before trimming the front edge. As the balance changes so does the overlap.

I've made about five coats before and about twenty pairs of trousers, so I'm comfortable with the sewing process. The fit of them left a bit to be desired though - the last one was that grey birdseye.

Thanks for the balance tip. The line chalked above the hem was the original hem on the draft - I tend to just leave it until I sort out the rest of the fitting issues. The lines on the canvas lapels are 1cm x 10cm darts + silesia - I always put small darts on the canvas at the lapel on DB coats to help them wrap around the chest. I don't dart the cloth, but rather work the excess in when pad stitching the lapel.

There is no sidebody, just an underarm dart - I figure that my chest/hip ratio is close enough that I don't need a sidebody? Certainly, sidebody drafts I have attempted have not fitted very well in the front. I'll move the darts around the front a little as suggested. Basting threads at the back are just visible from where I have basted the two back pieces together. Thanks for the tip about overlap and button placement. I'll look at the front edge after getting the balance right and moving the darts around.
post #1136 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs232 View Post


I've made about five coats before and about twenty pairs of trousers, so I'm comfortable with the sewing process. The fit of them left a bit to be desired though - the last one was that grey birdseye.

Thanks for the balance tip. The line chalked above the hem was the original hem on the draft - I tend to just leave it until I sort out the rest of the fitting issues. The lines on the canvas lapels are 1cm x 10cm darts + silesia - I always put small darts on the canvas at the lapel on DB coats to help them wrap around the chest. I don't dart the cloth, but rather work the excess in when pad stitching the lapel.

There is no sidebody, just an underarm dart - I figure that my chest/hip ratio is close enough that I don't need a sidebody? Certainly, sidebody drafts I have attempted have not fitted very well in the front. I'll move the darts around the front a little as suggested. Basting threads at the back are just visible from where I have basted the two back pieces together. Thanks for the tip about overlap and button placement. I'll look at the front edge after getting the balance right and moving the darts around.

What did you change regarding the fit?

This is new to me and don't comprehend the intention or the effect it has on the lapel
post #1137 of 5149

Bringing it to the experts.

 

This is a bespoke suit.  What would you change about it?

 

N.B.  I use this suit primarily for performing piano and voice, so I asked for extra room at the back to allow for comfortable extention of my arms.

 

525

 

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post #1138 of 5149

Hi Guys,

 

Will appreciate your (especially the excellent Mr Despos's) comments on the fit of this DB. The cloth is a 8/9oz old H.Lesser SFT. I absolutely love this cloth.

 

P6100198.jpgP6100199a.jpg

post #1139 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHagg View Post

Bringing it to the experts.

This is a bespoke suit.  What would you change about it?

N.B.  I use this suit primarily for performing piano and voice, so I asked for extra room at the back to allow for comfortable extention of my arms. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x525px-LL-439e3d78_2012-05-05_008.jpeg

350x525px-LL-c20a85ed_2012-05-05_009.jpeg

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Suit looks pretty good. Your blades are high and prominent and cause a little issue under the collar in back. Left blade seems more prominent. May be causing the collar to pull away a bit on the left side, very minor. Is this no vent and if so, your idea or the tailor's? He did a good job fitting your posture.
post #1140 of 5149
Quote:
Originally Posted by terrorsquad View Post

Hi Guys,

Will appreciate your (especially the excellent Mr Despos's) comments on the fit of this DB. The cloth is a 8/9oz old H.Lesser SFT. I absolutely love this cloth.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x520px-LL-5d13be56_P6100198.jpeg350x512px-LL-10c6cceb_P6100199a.jpeg

This is a very rough basting and will change much after this. Will you get another basted fitting? This type of basted try on is done up very quickly and then everything removed from the canvass. That's good, you can still change everything.

A side view would be very helpful.

The sleeve length and jacket hem are almost on the same line. Gives off a ladies proportion. If I were making this, I would give you another basted fitting with a longer length. Would try 1 inch longer and move the buttons down.
You want to avoid looking too narrow on the shoulders and wide on the hips. Might be the camera angle and distance, but I would watch out for that as the jacket progresses.

Front edge should be more perpendicular to the floor. Back looks good.

First time I have ever seen a tailor baste up the outlet of the sleeves on the outside of the sleeve rather than turn it under.
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