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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 75

post #1111 of 5094
Three different shirts, is it normal for the location and size of the darts to vary? I have over 15 of these OCBD shirts (typical RL OCBD) from my pre sf days and I do not want to get ride of them, they are practically new.

The shirts are OCBD and I wear them untucked, I am 5'11-6'00

467

467

467
post #1112 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by david3558 View Post

Hey guys - just picked up a smaller Corneliani jacket based off of measurements. Obviously the sleeves are too short and I think they can be let out but what do you think of the overall size of the jacket - any other comments?
569
EDIT: The jacket is unstructured, almost no padding on the shoulders and is only half lined up top.

 

IMO the jacket is much too small for you in both length and sleeve.

 

Check out this video for how the fit works;  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-RMZi1fwCg

 

 

post #1113 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

I've posted this in the WAYWRN thread today. I believe this jacket does a great job at hiding my pear shape (trust me, even if I still look like a pear with it, it's hiding huge hips). But I'm wondering if there's something else I can do to de-emphasize the pear shape even more with future purchases. I guess lower button stance would help, but do you think the shoulders could be extended half an inch or so? and is the lapel width OK as is? 

Thanks a lot!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
279x700px-LL-8b69c76c_44b3ed5c_P1010330.jpeg 350x504px-LL-83d4d319_574210a2_P1010331.jpeg

I've posted this jacket a few pages back in this thread already, and it happens to fit much better now that I've dropped a few more pounds.
Dent in right shoulder is caused by sleeve pitch not being right (if I move my arms forward it looks right) but this is RTW after all..

The line where the shoulder and sleeve are sewn is a bit too vertical or perpendicular to the floor like so II. If shoulder was extended a bit, the upper body would have more of a V shape to emphasize the chest and shoulder.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Oh, I meant if I were to get MTM garments, is it possible to de-emphasize pear shape further with some changes?
If I remember correctly, was the dent then caused by armhole shape not being cut for the shape of the wearer?
Thanks a lot for the feedback smile.gif If I get new RTW jackets I'll stick with this brand, cut and size.

Going MTM is starting from scratch unless you get MTM from the maker of this jacket, using this pattern.

It's about matching the height and width of the sleeve to the armhole. Armholes change shape on anyone who wears the jacket according to their shoulder and chest shape.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Despos, would a lower button deemphasize the perceived width of the hips?

RDiaz, I think I see some extra fullness in the trousers just below the hip that doesn't appear to be your actual shape. If that's true, that would help reduce the hippy-ness.

Maybe, I'm not sure. It's more about emphasizing the chest and shoulder
post #1114 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by smashwindow View Post

Quick question for you guys over here I'm usually in swd , I bought a Margiela jacket recently and the shoulders are a bit too padded for my tastes is there anyway to remove or reduce padding without ruining a jacket?  Also where can I find a good tailor in boulder/denver I don't trust my usual guy for this job. Here are some pictures if it helps
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x273px-LL-32694adf_DSC06983.jpeg
350x335px-LL-d9a59922_DSC06952.jpeg

Lift the back lining and you should be able to see how much shoulder padding is there. When the shoulder pad is removed there will either be a gap between your shoulder and the jacket or your shoulder will fill it in. Better if it's the latter.
post #1115 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by david3558 View Post

Hey guys - just picked up a smaller Corneliani jacket based off of measurements. Obviously the sleeves are too short and I think they can be let out but what do you think of the overall size of the jacket - any other comments?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
569

EDIT: The jacket is unstructured, almost no padding on the shoulders and is only half lined up top.

This might be the right size but the cut is not fitting you well. The fronts are very short and are crossing over in front. They are scissoring in tailor speak. Not correctable.If this is a regular, try a long.
post #1116 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs232 View Post

Chris, I'd be grateful for any initial impressions of this first baste. I've got big, big inlays everywhere (3-4cm). Center and waist lines are marked on fronts. Back is pinned in the middle to try to take away some of what I believe is excess.

I know everyone says sorry for the crap pics, but I really am. It's charcoal flannel, and the best-lit room in the house while it buckets down outside. I'll try to take better ones tomorrow.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
O3Lqo.jpg
I'm thinking of taking the back in a bit, and shortening it where the rectangle is because I believe it is long in the body? I've illustrated the front as per the draft, and intend to lower the gorge a little so that the peaks don't protrude over the shoulder. Is the button stance OK as is?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
S6lfB.jpg

Are you doing this work yourself?

I can't make out enough detail due to the darkness of the shots on my monitor and hard to judge accurately with no full length shots.

How much do the fronts overlap each other?

Be careful how much you shorten the body, a little goes a long way.

I rarely, if ever shape the back at the center back seam. Better to divide the amount in half and reduce on the sides of the back part.

Balance is excellent. You are off to a good start.
post #1117 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by CalTex View Post

Three different shirts, is it normal for the location and size of the darts to vary? I have over 15 of these OCBD shirts (typical RL OCBD) from my pre sf days and I do not want to get ride of them, they are practically new.

The shirts are OCBD and I wear them untucked, I am 5'11-6'00 Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
467

467

467

I wouldn't put darts on a shirt with a box pleat. Doesn't look right, actually, it looks terrible.
post #1118 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjt73106 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by david3558 View Post

Hey guys - just picked up a smaller Corneliani jacket based off of measurements. Obviously the sleeves are too short and I think they can be let out but what do you think of the overall size of the jacket - any other comments?
350x569px-LL-5a4446a2_corl.jpeg

EDIT: The jacket is unstructured, almost no padding on the shoulders and is only half lined up top.

IMO the jacket is much too small for you in both length and sleeve.
Check out this video for how the fit works;  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-RMZi1fwCg

 

Not good advice, would ignore
post #1119 of 5094

I think it might work, the problem is I have is that I already have 21" shoulders that are quite square (very little drop from bottom of neck to top of shoulder)  adding pads to that, makes me look like a linebacker.  Hopefully I can have this done for under 2-3 bills is there a resource for finding local tailors on here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Lift the back lining and you should be able to see how much shoulder padding is there. When the shoulder pad is removed there will either be a gap between your shoulder and the jacket or your shoulder will fill it in. Better if it's the latter.
post #1120 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by smashwindow View Post

I think it might work, the problem is I have is that I already have 21" shoulders that are quite square (very little drop from bottom of neck to top of shoulder)  adding pads to that, makes me look like a linebacker.  Hopefully I can have this done for under 2-3 bills is there a resource for finding local tailors on here?

Talk to Susan at Studio Bernina, It's on Arapahoe. if she can't help you she will recommend someone. Mention my name

Shoulder looks narrow on that jacket.
post #1121 of 5094

I bought for shoulders to fit since thats what usually is impossible to change planning on having chest and waist taken in a couple inches. That place looks great I might have to take some additional classes i'm taking sewing 1 as an elective right now icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Talk to Susan at Studio Bernina, It's on Arapahoe. if she can't help you she will recommend someone. Mention my name
Shoulder looks narrow on that jacket.
post #1122 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Are you doing this work yourself?
I can't make out enough detail due to the darkness of the shots on my monitor and hard to judge accurately with no full length shots.
How much do the fronts overlap each other?
Be careful how much you shorten the body, a little goes a long way.
I rarely, if ever shape the back at the center back seam. Better to divide the amount in half and reduce on the sides of the back part.
Balance is excellent. You are off to a good start.

Thanks Chris. Yes, I'm making it. I have attempted to change a few things (let the fronts out at the shoulders, reduced shoulder inlays to 1cm, basted darts properly. Still having problems with the back - I fiddled with the scye a little, but I think it's still causing drags. Here's a brightened shot in better light - can't zoom out enough for full length in the small room. Still raining outside; I'll try to do proper shots tomorrow. Overlap/wrap is 13cm edge to edge. I've taken the pins out of the back and removed 0,5cm from each side instead

0eYSF.jpg
post #1123 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


I wouldn't put darts on a shirt with a box pleat. Doesn't look right, actually, it looks terrible.


Despos, what do you think about shirts just with darts (without pleat) ? I bought recently 2 kiton shirts made for European market, they have darts (my other kiton shirts don't have darts) they fit really good but  i still hesitate to remove the darts. I am afraid that this will make the waist as large as the chest which is not good. Would you recommend to remove darts ? Many thanks.

post #1124 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post

Despos, what do you think about shirts just with darts (without pleat) ? I bought recently 2 kiton shirts made for European market, they have darts (my other kiton shirts don't have darts) they fit really good but  i still hesitate to remove the darts. I am afraid that this will make the waist as large as the chest which is not good. Would you recommend to remove darts ? Many thanks.

Darts are fine but an oxymoron with a shirt cut with a box pleat. Taper the ocbd's on the side seams and no darts.
Kiton shirts are fine with darts unless you have a specific reason to remove them.
post #1125 of 5094
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

RDiaz, I think I see some extra fullness in the trousers just below the hip that doesn't appear to be your actual shape. If that's true, that would help reduce the hippy-ness.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

rdiaz
picture please.
also check the tutorials for a high hip.

 

Here is a front and side view of the same trousers draping "correctly". Given how I'm shaped I'm not sure anything could be done to make future purchases look better other than dropping some more "love" off these love handles... :)

 

pants2.jpg pants1.jpg

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