The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

a tailor · Dec 27, 2012

verr said:
This is for me? Couldn't find anyone else with this nick. The instructions could be about my jacket, but not sure.

if thats your moniker then its you. unless its not you. then its someone else. huh?

TweedyProf · Dec 28, 2012

a tailor said:
TWEEDPROF
the alteration shifting the shoulders can be done on your garment.
perhaps you can have the maker do it for you. or you might have them
pay to have it done fully or partly.
if you order again with them or someone else, you must remember
to ask for the fore ward shoulder change.
they will do this on the cutting table,. this is very easy to do when cutting
a new garment. just like the other changes you propose.
jacket length 1" longer
button stance 1"and 1/2" lower
little more room in the waist
more room across the butt
sleeve pitch just a "little" to the back
sleeves 1/2" longer.
you have a right low shoulder, see the tutorials to find out how
to measure for a low shoulder. they need to know how much.

Thanks A Tailor

It might be useful to link to your helpful tutorial for those here who might have similar forward shoulder problems:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/313577/uncomfortable-shoulder-forward-shoulders

It was the jacket at issue here that gave rise to the question to which you wrote that post.

A few final questions

1. Were I to go back to the makers (Suit Supply), could the adjustment for the uncofrmotable forward shoulder be addressed by bringing them your diagram from the above post?

The idea is that when they sew the for the new garment, they do the shift you recommend as the garment is being assembled?

2. Cutting a wider arm hole, front to back, is not the way to do it.

3. How to know how much to shift as per your tutorial?

4. The remedy seems complicated enough that it should be only done by a skilled tailor who has done many of these before? It is among the more complicated alterations?

Stu · Dec 28, 2012

Question, and I apologize if this has been covered, because it did not turn up for me in a search: Can lapels be raised higher on the jacket? I have a glen plaid suit made with 9 oz (I believe) Holland & Sherry cloth from a M2M outfit out of Hong Kong. I love the suit, especially the fabric, but the only issue is the lapels sit too low, making the suit look a bit dated. They really should sit higher on the chest, by a half-inch to an inch. Is it doable to fix it so the lapels sit higher?

a tailor · Dec 28, 2012

Stu said:
Question, and I apologize if this has been covered, because it did not turn up for me in a search: Can lapels be raised higher on the jacket? I have a glen plaid suit made with 9 oz (I believe) Holland & Sherry cloth from a M2M outfit out of Hong Kong. I love the suit, especially the fabric, but the only issue is the lapels sit too low, making the suit look a bit dated. They really should sit higher on the chest, by a half-inch to an inch. Is it doable to fix it so the lapels sit higher?

sorry but that must be done when the garment is on the cutting table.

mechestudent · Dec 28, 2012

College student, just bought my first suit. JCrew Factory Wool
Will be taking it to the tailor soon, any suggestions appreciated!

(ignore jeans/ undershirt, I will only be wearing this with dress shirts)

a tailor · Dec 28, 2012

TweedyProf said:
Thanks A Tailor

It might be useful to link to your helpful tutorial for those here who might have similar forward shoulder problems:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/313577/uncomfortable-shoulder-forward-shoulders

It was the jacket at issue here that gave rise to the question to which you wrote that post.

A few final questions

1. Were I to go back to the makers (Suit Supply), could the adjustment for the uncofrmotable forward shoulder be addressed by bringing them your diagram from the above post?

The idea is that when they sew the for the new garment, they do the shift you recommend as the garment is being assembled?

2. Cutting a wider arm hole, front to back, is not the way to do it.

3. How to know how much to shift as per your tutorial?

4. The remedy seems complicated enough that it should be only done by a skilled tailor who has done many of these before? It is among the more complicated alterations?

when you order the next garment, the changes you ask for will be incorporated by the cutter on the cutting table in the cutting room.
the shoulder change will be just another in the list of the changes you requested. it will take him about 30 seconds of chalk time to do this.
there will not be any need for a special tailor to handle this, as m2m garments are made on an assembly line by machine operators.
in other words the way its cut is the way its made.
usually 1/2 inch of change is enough.

and yes you may copy the diagram and any thing else you wish, to use as you will.
anyone may do this because there are no copyrights involved, as it is just common knowledge all cutters and tailors learn.

Holtskog · Dec 28, 2012

Hi, I am aware that the pictures are not taken 10-12 feet away by someone else, but I would very much like some feedback on the shirt fit if at all possible. (I have none to take pictures for me right now, and I need to get some orders away within this weekend if possible)
I have gotten shirts from Daveshirt for a few years, and only recently taken an interest in proper fit. I would like to get your input on changes I should make.
From what I can see I seem to have an excess amount of fabric in the lower back and I hope there is something I can do with the wrinkles on the arms. (this shirt has been dry cleaned several times, fresh of the hangar in these pictures). I also feel like its slightly too wide in the shoulders

so to sum up
- 0.5 inches on the shoulders
- 0,5 inch on sleeve length (?)
- 1 inch waist

Any other input? Am I totally wrong?

togglebutton · Dec 28, 2012

Hi all, I recently had Indochino make me two MTM suits. Here are the results.

I notice this is a forward shoulder problem and A Tailor and TweedyProf have touched upon it already.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Thanks A Tailor

It might be useful to link to your helpful tutorial for those here who might have similar forward shoulder problems:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/313577/uncomfortable-shoulder-forward-shoulders

It was the jacket at issue here that gave rise to the question to which you wrote that post.

A few final questions

1. Were I to go back to the makers (Suit Supply), could the adjustment for the uncofrmotable forward shoulder be addressed by bringing them your diagram from the above post?

The idea is that when they sew the for the new garment, they do the shift you recommend as the garment is being assembled?

2. Cutting a wider arm hole, front to back, is not the way to do it.

3. How to know how much to shift as per your tutorial?

4. The remedy seems complicated enough that it should be only done by a skilled tailor who has done many of these before? It is among the more complicated alterations?

when you order the next garment, the changes you ask for will be incorporated by the cutter on the cutting table in the cutting room.
the shoulder change will be just another in the list of the changes you requested. it will take him about 30 seconds of chalk time to do this.
there will not be any need for a special tailor to handle this, as m2m garments are made on an assembly line by machine operators.
in other words the way its cut is the way its made.
usually 1/2 inch of change is enough.

and yes you may copy the diagram and any thing else you wish, to use as you will.
anyone may do this because there are no copyrights involved, as it is just common knowledge all cutters and tailors learn.

My question is, should i take it to a local tailor to see what they can do? or have the suits remade and if so, what adjustments should I make to my measurements to fix this problem in addition to telling them of this forward shoulder problem? Do you think Indochino would be capable of making a suit that fixes this problem?

Because I have an athletic build, I have a bigger shoulders and biceps than most people. The wrinkle is a result of it. Both are made according to the same measurements.

Jacket/Shirt Length 29.5″
Chest Size 40.75″
Stomach Size 35″
Jacket Hips 40.25″
Shoulder Size 18.5″
Sleeve Length 24.75″
Bicep Size 15.5″
Wrist Size 10.5″

Charcoal

Black

Thank you

Chase H · Dec 28, 2012

GenerationYoung said:
Hi, I need some help I need to send the suit back and get it remade based off the current fitting. Can you provide some some guidance as to what I need to get them to fix it?

Suit Jacket: Shoulders +.25", Chest -2", Waist/Midsection -1", Jacket Length +0.75", Sleeve Length 1.25"
Suit Pants: I'm confused about this one, as it feels really tight. I'm thinking, Waist +0.5", Hips +0.5", Crotch +0.25"

As far as the shirt itself goes, I really recommend not wearing it.

unclesam099 · Dec 29, 2012

Please recommend changes to my waistcoat. As shown, the shape of the points seems off, shoulders seem to need to be wider, and it gaps away from the body at the bottom. Sorry, these are photos from my tailor and the suit is going back to the factory for modifications so I can't capture new ones at the moment. Thanks!

Chase H · Dec 29, 2012

unclesam099 said:
Please recommend changes to my waistcoat. As shown, the shape of the points seems off, shoulders seem to need to be wider, and it gaps away from the body at the bottom. Sorry, these are photos from my tailor and the suit is going back to the factory for modifications so I can't capture new ones at the moment. Thanks!

The 'points' look way too pronounced, and way too long.

OTCtailor · Dec 29, 2012

The proportions are entirely off. It's just too long in the front. Because of the long length measurement, it was made with narrower (closer together) points (which was either wrong on your tailor's end or the factory end...but it was measured or cut too long), The length should obviously be shorter with the points spread a bit further apart to be proportionate to your build. Look at the bottom button...It shouldn't be buttoned for style reasons but it doesn't look like it actually can be functionally buttoned without throwing drags all over the place. Poor tailoring.
If the waistcoat were shorter...especially in the foreparts from the outter edge of the shoulder line...and a little more room given in the chest area...the gaping away from the body at the lower part and the tightness at the chest would go away. The waistcoat should flatter not expose. Regardless of all of this, the fact that the bottom button isn't actually functional is a major sign of poor tailoring. The only solution, imho, is a total remake.
Fitting issues happen to the best m2m programs but poor tailoring resulting in stuff like that? That's a sign to avoid that factory...
I'm an alterations tailor with m2m in house and I've seen my share of unfortunate mistakes that I've had to fix and eat...but nothing like that.

dustinmyself · Dec 31, 2012

two tuxedos that I've come across.
would like feedback on the fit.
my apologizes for the lack of photos, didn't have a lot of time.

OTCtailor · Dec 31, 2012

Definitely need more and better pics. Pics of a black suit need more lighting. Need side and back shot too.

Chase H · Dec 31, 2012

Sleeves are in danger of being too short but are probably still acceptable.

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

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