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shirts and general fit question for V shaped body - Page 2

post #16 of 24

Depends, darts visually slim shirt by just being there; irregardless of how much fabric you're taking in.  If there is a box pleat or shoulder pleats on the the yoke I would get them taken in at the sides, shouldn't too cost much more it requires a little more work as you have to sew 3 seams (including flat felled seams and a a twice turned hem) as opposed to just sewing two seams that don't even require a seam finish.

post #17 of 24
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchun View Post

I have always had a problem finding shirts slim enough for my body. Every dress shirt had to be tailored in the torso area. I recently tried 5th & lamar shirts since they set out to specifically address the large midsection problem.

So far they appear to fit better than most shirts but with my body type I still feel like it can be improved.

My jacket/chest size is 38/40 and waist/pants is 29/30 depending on the store.  I find that most "mediums" fit me well in the shoulders but the stomach is way too large. most "smalls" fit better in the stomach but then my shoulders are very cramped, almost to the point where I might tear the seams in certain positions. I would say I have fairly large shoulder muscles and lats because that's where I feel the most discomfort.

Is my best option to go custom? I feel like I can get by but I was wondering if there were any brands that catered to this type of shape before I consider going bespoke.

I feel you. I have very thick traps/lats/pec/shoulders so in that area the best fit is like a 16.5 to a 17. Except my waist is more for a size 15 shirt. The best solution I've found is to get L or XL shirts and have them taken in and most of the time darted. I also have the sleeves adjusted to match the slimness throughout. I wish there were more shirts that had a little bit of elastane in them but were not gaudy garbage brands. But I guess they just assume if you go to a gym then you must drug your knuckles along the floor.

I think darting is a must if you oversize to fit. The back puff that remains even after its taken in from the sides is pretty atrocious (depends on the way its sewn too).
post #18 of 24

It is one of the paradoxes of life. We read often that RTW clothing are made for fit people/ Greek gods etc etc, but the fittest of people find it difficult to buy clothing that fits them well.

 

Fact is, rtw clothes are made like the daily horoscope columns, having something for everyone.

 

Even when using an MTM service and providing the right measurements, getting the perfect fit may require a couple of iterations. To get it right the first time, you need to discuss the following with your shirt-maker apart from other details:

 

1. Desired fit

2. Measurements

3. Shoulder slopes

4. Shoulder lean

5. Overall posture
 

As an online MTM service, we encourage our clients to send us front and back images of themselves in a dress shirt. It helps us analyze the body shape, posture, shoulder slopes, arms and then decide on the shape to be given to the shirt.

 

It works pretty well and as there is no extra cost for the service, it is appreciated as a mechanism to improve fit.

 

 

Darting:

We prefer making shirts without darts and instead put extra efforts in giving the shirt the right shape by cutting it correctly and sewing the seams skillfully. But, darts have their place.

Darting plays an important dual role. It not only gives the waist the right look, it should also be used to make room for the more prominent upper back that many people with athletic bodies have.

post #19 of 24
I have all of my shirts either MTM or darted as well as being taken in at the sides. I find that having a pleat in the centre also helps me to move without feeling any discomfort in my lats and rhomboids. I have quite a prominent back so YMMV, I know not many people round here recommend a pleat with darts, it really works well for me though.

For reference:
neck 17"
chest 42"
waist 32"

I'm not a large guy by any means, I just think that my overall proportions lead to me needing alterations on any RTW, luckily I have long arms though so at least they never require alterations!
post #20 of 24
If you have a great tailor than get the side seams altered. However my tailor is so-so and fucks up the seams so it's darts for me
post #21 of 24
try a super slim shirt from Zara....they fit great and you get to save a lot
post #22 of 24

Epaulet shirts are good for me, though I don't have as large a drop between chest and waist as you.  I've actually gotten my most recent shirts from a local tailor who really knew what they were doing, and I've had excellent results - so I'd advise going that route if you're okay with the cost.

post #23 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchun View Post

I have always had a problem finding shirts slim enough for my body. Every dress shirt had to be tailored in the torso area. I recently tried 5th & lamar shirts since they set out to specifically address the large midsection problem.

 

So far they appear to fit better than most shirts but with my body type I still feel like it can be improved.

 

My jacket/chest size is 38/40 and waist/pants is 29/30 depending on the store.  I find that most "mediums" fit me well in the shoulders but the stomach is way too large. most "smalls" fit better in the stomach but then my shoulders are very cramped, almost to the point where I might tear the seams in certain positions. I would say I have fairly large shoulder muscles and lats because that's where I feel the most discomfort.

 

Is my best option to go custom? I feel like I can get by but I was wondering if there were any brands that catered to this type of shape before I consider going bespoke.

Honestly, have you considered that maybe you want them too tight? Just asking. I used to like my suits very fitted, like most SF members. Then I realized that it was not as comfortable as I thought it'd be to wear a fitted suit to SF standards. So I started relaxing the fit on my jacket and trousers(trousers especially). Wrinkling decreased, my fear of tearing my trousers is almost none now, unless I bend over too far, my jacet sleeves don't wrinkle nearly as much, etc. I went from something akin to Tom Ford to the suits Rubinacci's models wear. Or Skyfall to Casino Royale. I feel much more comfortable now adays =] just a possible suggestion. If you want your shirts very fitted, follow the other people's suggestion and go MTM, or buy a shirt that fits well enough and get it tailored, like PatBooth suggested - whichever one is cheaper. I wear Lewin's fully fitted shirts and they fit nearly perfect for my waist; a touch roomy, but I've gotten used to it - plus if I gain weight, I don't have to change anything(suits and shirts).


Edited by forbritisheyes - 4/29/13 at 7:47am
post #24 of 24

A MTM shirt and a RTW shirt with darts sewn on the back are two very different things actually...I'd go MTM, always. To get a RTW shirt tailored means to modify something and to adapt it to your body. A MTM shirt is a garment that is manufactured just for you, following your instructions and with the details you prefer. It can be more expensive but the result is different.

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