Related Forum Threads
- ISAIA NAPOLI - SUPER HUGE MEGATHREAD - Suits, Sport Coats, Jackets, Pants, Ties, Hangers &... Last post on 11/13/13 at 7:07am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- Sportcoat Fit question Last post on 9/14/11 at 5:50pm in Classic Menswear
- MEGATHREAD - LOTS & LOTS of SUITS, BLAZERS, COATS / JACKETS - 50+ Items - All Sizes in Size... Last post on 3/3/12 at 7:15pm in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- Hickey by Hickey Freeman on Gilt, $400... worth it? Last post on 9/26/11 at 10:06am in Classic Menswear
- Bradley Cooper-Limitless Last post on 8/20/13 at 7:29pm in Classic Menswear
How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
Last edited: 5/16/13
- What Should I Wear To A Job Interview?Last edited: 7/25/13
- Andrew Lock
- The Armoury
- Bespoke England
- Bison Made
- Blue Owl
- Carson Street Clothiers
- Conrad Wu
- Crane's Country Store
- David Reeves Bespoke
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Elite Suits
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- Foster & Son
- Four Horsemen Shop
- GABE Tailored
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- Gordon Yao, Hong Kong
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Carter Neckwear
- Howard Yount
- Hugh & Crye
- Jeffrey George
- Kent Wang
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Malford of London
- Meermin Mallorca
- Moda Republic
- Modern Tailor
- Need Supply Co.
- Neo Nouveau
- No Man Walks Alone
- Oak Street Bootmakers
- Passaggio Cravatte
- Paul Evans
- Portland Dry Goods
- Roden Gray
- Saddleback Leather
- Self Edge
- Taylor Stitch
- Temple of jawnz
- Uncle Otis
- United Stock Dry Goods
- Upstate Stock
- Vastrm Fashion
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Wrong Weather
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- What Should I Wear To A Job Interview?
Allowances for alterations to tailored clothing - Page 2
Styleforum Top Picks
I've always wondered how stable one's build should be before considering bespoke. I'll probably be a lot fatter in 25 years, if not next year.
I would tell him to see a nutritionist.
Things can be let out by a couple of inches, but when you get beyond that it gets dicey. Proportions and positions of things get thrown off. Pants are fairly straightforward, but the prevailing wisdom (which may or may not be correct) is that the girth increases by two thirds in the front and one third in the back as we get fat. IOW your stomach gets bigger at a much faster rate than the tire, but there is no allowance for letting the stomach out at the front of the coat, where it is really needed. And as the paunch develops, there is a cut hidden by the pocket which needs to be opened up to keep the fronts from kicking and you need some extra length in the front to cover it. So its no longer a matter of just circumference but of balance when you start to develop a gut.
It is a great article. We will actually be putting this and other articles like it in our articles section, so that the content stays "everygreen" and can be easily used as a reference. This system will be useful for both established and new members, and new members with questions can easily be referred to it, and not be daunted by a 1000 page thread.
There might be even only one inch in the side seam per half body side available as inlay to let out. If you need more than that it effect the stomach dart like JD says and you need a new draft. The stomach dart in the pocket keeps the fronts shaped around your belly and is an important tool to make your jacket fit. When the stomach grows you also need more front length over the belly.
The best is when you vary between slim and getting fat you have two suits, LOL. One for slim times and one for fat times.
It is also true that the most perfect cutters only cut almost none inlay, as the inlay might disturb the fall of fabric or shine through when using light material.
The side seam is a sensitive seam where big inlays disturb. So you better have your weight locked in when ordering an expensive suit.
These threads are fantastic reading!! I do have to pick a small issue though, having worked in a tailoring business specializing in alterations I have rarely seen a trouser with 2.5" to let out, only ever on bespoke or made to measure garments. Most OTR trousers seem to have slightly less than a full size roughly 3.5cm total (1.5" roughly). Which always leaves a problem if the client has the jacket that fits and needs to let the trousers out a full size as is not possible.
Is there any information you can provide on the average cost of performing each alteration? I am currently using a very skilled tailor from Spain who refuses to deliver a quote for his services. I just have to wait until the services are performed to know what the damage is. It's a slight inconvenience and a pain to try to budget these types of items.
- Allowances for alterations to tailored clothing
- › Elite Suits - Official Affiliate Thread 2 minutes ago
- › *** The official PATRIK ERVELL thread *** 2 minutes ago
- › Where should I get my tuxedo? 3 minutes ago
- › When you cant button your shirts all the way. 5 minutes ago
- › The New Official Wolf vs. Goat Thread 7 minutes ago
- › WrongWeather.net, Fashion & Lifestyle for Contemporary Men:... 7 minutes ago
- › Buying and Selling on eBay: Tips, Tricks, Problems & Questions 11 minutes ago
- › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 12 minutes ago
- › Oak Street Bootmakers - Official Affiliate Thread 14 minutes ago
- › ***The official Alden thread *** 19 minutes ago
- › Alden Ravello Shell Long Wing Blucher by ppith
- › Sterlingwear Navigator Peacoat by ppith
- › Campbell Cooper Waxed Cotton Motorcycle Jacket by njhunt
- › J. Crew Rugged Classic Boots by Red Wing by _cameosis_
- › Loake Strand by wurger
- › Adidas x The Soloist Rod Laver Vin by BenMusch
- › Loake 1880 Aldwych by wurger
- › Herschel Ravine Black/Tan FA 12 by pfmicks
- › Vans Footwear The Barbour Classic Slip On Sneaker,10.5,Green by ATLnoob
- › Berg & Berg unlined silk bow tie (SS'13) by MTB-85
- › The Tyre-Kicker's Diary: Watch Boutiques... by mimo
- › Choosing Men's Designer Suits by LA Guy
- › San Francisco Shopping Map by j
- › So you want to design your own clothes? by DaveJames
- › Styleforum Product Reviewer Questionnaire and... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum Product Reviewer Terms of... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Start your... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Extras) by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Jeans &... by alyssaw
- › Styleforum's Winter Getaway (Cardigans) by alyssaw