Hey guys, im looking to get my first "nice suit". I have a cheapy black Macy's suit and tux but want something nice now that im in my young twenties. Im pretty sure im gunna go custom bespoke. Theres a well regarded tailor in my town that does 2 Piece suits starting at 699 half canvassed, (10% extra full canvass) and super 120's wool (price is basically directly and only effected by choosing higher grade material).
Basically I want advice on what style choices to make that fit the requirements of a.) what fits my tastes b.) What works for the intended use of the suit c.) what works for my physique.
Ill start off with what I intend it for. Basically I want it to be fairly universal so im assuming i should stick to things of a dark grey or navy base color. I want cuts more on the trendy young side but something not so outlandish that I could potentially wear it to work when i get a job that needs it, or something that wouldnt be out of place at an interview. Realistically until I get a suit tie job a couple years down the road its going to get most its use at dress up occasions like family gatherings, weddings, formal nightlife, and possibly a couple interviews.
The silhouette that has captured my attention the most so far are the Tom Ford cuts. I'm really digging the peaked wide lapels (some of which are a tad to wide but i have the option to toning that down going bespoke). I like how it seems to be very snug and really emphasizes the V-shape of the torso pulling in at the waist. And while ill probably stay straight leg vs the boot cut on his pants i like that its a very fitted jacket but keeps slightly more relaxed pants that arent super slim.
Besides the general question of if i should even go for that style as a realistic good option other questions on my mind are whether to go single vs double breasted, how many buttons, ect. I wasnt a huge DB fan until this pic. which I think looks pretty flippin slick when its that fitted and form fitting. And to me to DB seems to "tame" pointed lapel look a bit. I really like some of the two button ones as well (instead of the 6). Im just concerned about the practicality of such a jacket for my first main investment? And especially as i just honestly dont see myself staying buttoned the entire time i ever wear it? Seems like there could be alot of trade offs especially when SB looks just as good.
As a side note to Tom Ford items, i see many people writing that his suit shoulders are "aggressive looking" or exaggerated. Perhaps someone should explain this to me since i honestly dont notice much any difference in shoulders glancing between lots of suit pictures? What should i be looking at lol.
To give you an idea of what the suit will be on. Im 21, 6'1", 180lbs. According to my not so scientific in house measurements
waist = 29"
chest (looping around my chest under armpits) = 42"
Looping around my chest and shoulders = 49"
neck = 16"
The picture to paint here is I come with a slim athletic v-shape torso. Becasue of this i wonder if some of the slim cuts like dior homme might not work well on me as opposed to the stick like asians that model them lol? Cause thats a suit i liked as well in pictures.
A problem Id like to question can be noted in this pic of me in my current jacket. Pic got messed up transferring off the phone but notice the left shoulder near my neck. Its a big eyesore of a lump that looks retarded... That would be my trap muscles. Is that something than can typically compensated for or fixed in a higher end jacket? Because besides the bump it makes it also seems to stretch the material oddly and makes weird creases around my shoulders and around the back of the colar.
All opinions, comments, recommendations welcome. Its a sizable investment for me so I wanna get it right and know what to tell the tailor including minor details that probably completely evade me as a non suit expert.
Basically I want advice on what style choices to make that fit the requirements of a.) what fits my tastes b.) What works for the intended use of the suit c.) what works for my physique.
Ill start off with what I intend it for. Basically I want it to be fairly universal so im assuming i should stick to things of a dark grey or navy base color. I want cuts more on the trendy young side but something not so outlandish that I could potentially wear it to work when i get a job that needs it, or something that wouldnt be out of place at an interview. Realistically until I get a suit tie job a couple years down the road its going to get most its use at dress up occasions like family gatherings, weddings, formal nightlife, and possibly a couple interviews.
The silhouette that has captured my attention the most so far are the Tom Ford cuts. I'm really digging the peaked wide lapels (some of which are a tad to wide but i have the option to toning that down going bespoke). I like how it seems to be very snug and really emphasizes the V-shape of the torso pulling in at the waist. And while ill probably stay straight leg vs the boot cut on his pants i like that its a very fitted jacket but keeps slightly more relaxed pants that arent super slim.
Besides the general question of if i should even go for that style as a realistic good option other questions on my mind are whether to go single vs double breasted, how many buttons, ect. I wasnt a huge DB fan until this pic. which I think looks pretty flippin slick when its that fitted and form fitting. And to me to DB seems to "tame" pointed lapel look a bit. I really like some of the two button ones as well (instead of the 6). Im just concerned about the practicality of such a jacket for my first main investment? And especially as i just honestly dont see myself staying buttoned the entire time i ever wear it? Seems like there could be alot of trade offs especially when SB looks just as good.
As a side note to Tom Ford items, i see many people writing that his suit shoulders are "aggressive looking" or exaggerated. Perhaps someone should explain this to me since i honestly dont notice much any difference in shoulders glancing between lots of suit pictures? What should i be looking at lol.
To give you an idea of what the suit will be on. Im 21, 6'1", 180lbs. According to my not so scientific in house measurements
waist = 29"
chest (looping around my chest under armpits) = 42"
Looping around my chest and shoulders = 49"
neck = 16"
The picture to paint here is I come with a slim athletic v-shape torso. Becasue of this i wonder if some of the slim cuts like dior homme might not work well on me as opposed to the stick like asians that model them lol? Cause thats a suit i liked as well in pictures.
A problem Id like to question can be noted in this pic of me in my current jacket. Pic got messed up transferring off the phone but notice the left shoulder near my neck. Its a big eyesore of a lump that looks retarded... That would be my trap muscles. Is that something than can typically compensated for or fixed in a higher end jacket? Because besides the bump it makes it also seems to stretch the material oddly and makes weird creases around my shoulders and around the back of the colar.
All opinions, comments, recommendations welcome. Its a sizable investment for me so I wanna get it right and know what to tell the tailor including minor details that probably completely evade me as a non suit expert.
