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Bespoke Suit

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

I have a graduation coming up very shortly within the UK. Am considering getting a bespoke suit made, however i saw incredible suits in Corneliani and in Brunello, not to mention Kiton in Harrods. I was just wondering if there were any other good alternatives to a bespoke suit.

 

I've considered http://www.astorandblack.com/ but they seem to be very vague on their services.

 

Cheers

post #2 of 15
Astor and Black are only made to measure, they are not bespoke, and most of the reviews I've read of them have been less than favourable.
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 

Favourable in what sense? Is there any suggestions you could offer on this front, it would be much appreciated.

post #4 of 15
Don't go to Astor & Black. Cheap crap made in China. You are better off going to one of the RTW makers that you suggested and buying whatever fits the best and then going to a reputable tailor to make it even better.
post #5 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freaknice View Post

I have a graduation coming up very shortly within the UK. Am considering getting a bespoke suit made, however i saw incredible suits in Corneliani and in Brunello, not to mention Kiton in Harrods. I was just wondering if there were any other good alternatives to a bespoke suit.

 

I've considered http://www.astorandblack.com/ but they seem to be very vague on their services.

 

Cheers

 

My advice: decide what suit aesthetic you want, then figure out if you can satisfy that aesthetic with locally available high-end RTW, MTM or bespoke. If yes, choose the one that meets your preferred time/effort trade-off. I suspect that given the range of higher-end brands that you named, you naturally prefer a somewhat softer & less structured suit, which narrows your bespoke options in London quite considerably though there are still a few choices. But given that you also want the suit in a short time-frame, I further suspect that you may be happier with high-end RTW than a potentially disappointing (in timeframe and/or aesthetic) foray into bespoke. This is assuming the RTW you mentioned fits pretty well off the rack, and needs only a little tailoring.

 

YMMV, of course.

post #6 of 15
With your time-frame you have two options i. get RTW and then altered or ii. go bespoke; however, the former seems a better option.

You should also consider Pal Zileri and Zegna as suit options, if you want to go the Italian RTW route. Ralph Lauren is another option.
post #7 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thank you so much for your advice.

post #8 of 15

I've just posted a new thread on tailored suits to ask if anyone had heard of Louis Purple before. their shop is somewhere in Soho and products there look really nifty. The shop keeper there told me straight away that they were not making bespoke but Made-to-measure, which means that the fabric is cut according to your body type but you don't have to go thru a few fittings to get the final product. Alterations (which are obviously included in the price they offer) can sometimes be necessary though.

I know their products are made in Europe and that the brand is French.

According to the reviews I saw online, their products are legit.

I will post a review about the suit I will order sometime this week.

3-4 weeks turn around time for suits and shirts.

Fully customized suits start at 700$ and go up to a 1000 bucks for branded mills: Loro piana, dormeuil, vitale barberis, Holland & Sherry, cerutti, which is up to 3 times less expensive than the suits I used to get made before (for a similar fabric)

Again, if someone gave them a try yet, I would love to get their feedback!

 

J.

 

post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freaknice View Post

Favourable in what sense? Is there any suggestions you could offer on this front, it would be much appreciated.


Polite way of saying crap. Avoid and pass on.
post #10 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freaknice View Post

I have a graduation coming up very shortly within the UK. Am considering getting a bespoke suit made, however i saw incredible suits in Corneliani and in Brunello, not to mention Kiton in Harrods. I was just wondering if there were any other good alternatives to a bespoke suit.

 

I've considered http://www.astorandblack.com/ but they seem to be very vague on their services.

 

Cheers


so you'll be wearing cap and gown right? the suit should go with the gown - - which will be black if ur undergrad
sure u need a bespoke suit under a gown?
post #11 of 15

There have been unflattering comments on Astor & Black so best be warned, but for a young man as yourself, a bespoke suit is a good investment. Skilled bespoke tailors can even replicate a style you prefer, provided of course you show them a copy of the suit.

post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by connor09 View Post

Skilled bespoke tailors can even replicate a style you prefer, provided of course you show them a copy of the suit.

This touches on an age-old forum debate, so I will only say this does not reflect a consensus of wisdom. Frankly, I'd be embarassed bringing a suit to a skilled bespoke tailor to copy.

To the OP: if you like the soft, lightly structured, southern Italian cut and are willing to pay Kiton prices, you are much better off going to Rubinacci's London shop, where they do bespoke work that is higher quality and more authentically Neapolitan.
post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

This touches on an age-old forum debate, so I will only say this does not reflect a consensus of wisdom. Frankly, I'd be embarassed bringing a suit to a skilled bespoke tailor to copy.
To the OP: if you like the soft, lightly structured, southern Italian cut and are willing to pay Kiton prices, you are much better off going to Rubinacci's London shop, where they do bespoke work that is higher quality and more authentically Neapolitan.

Not mention it is pretty insulting.
post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Not mention it is pretty insulting.

Yes, that. But perhaps most importantly, it is technically infeasible and signals that the client does not understand the bespoke process or product. The tailor is likely to be insulted but the client is even more likely to be disappointed.
post #15 of 15
Too true.
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