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Does Bespoke Really Bring real benefit for my proportionate figure? - Page 2

post #16 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mlongano View Post

Since you're from the United States why not give Chris Despos a try?

Less traveling (Chicago/Dallas versus London), and probably every bit as good if not better than SR.

What makes you think he's as good if not better than a Savile Row tailor? I don't want to get into a bitch fest just interested, I don't know much about Chris.

What would you like to know?
post #17 of 45
Well after that claim which is rather impressive, I'd just be interested to know how you got into the business and where you trained.
post #18 of 45
If I weren't my own tailor, Chris would be.

For whatever that's worth.
post #19 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

If I weren't my own tailor, Chris would be.

For whatever that's worth.

That's pretty cool and a very nice compliment Jeffery, Thank you!

I am actually working today, basting try-ons. Meeting two out of town clients at the store tonight. When I finish, I will respond to David.
post #20 of 45

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Fit is so individual that you won't really know until you try both. Fit varies from firm to firm (could even vary with different cutters in the same firm).
 I think reasons for trying bespoke also include curiosity and wanting to try the experience.

 

+1. I have a mix of things in my wardrobe including OTR, MTM and bespoke. Everything has been made or altered to some degree to fit well. If you're of average proportion, I think any of the above options will work just fine.

 

The reason to go bespoke is about getting a particular silhouette, choosing a specific cloth and selecting details. If you're happy with Kiton's style and cloth choices, then there's really no reason to try anything else. If you're interested in a different style that you can't find off the rack and willing to wait, then bespoke can be a fun and rewarding option. I don't think either one will necessary be better than the other for achieving a "proportionate figure".

post #21 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Well after that claim which is rather impressive, I'd just be interested to know how you got into the business and where you trained.

First introduction to custom tailoring was my father. He was a fantastic tailor, trained in Greece. He was a master tailor/coatrmaker at age 18. Began working with him at age 17, Learned the ABC’s. He was doing mostly MTM and it wasn’t satisfying to me. Thru a contact I was introduced to Louis Scalise in NYC. Had a 3 day interview with him. He was a tailor/designer and was dean at FIT. Rather than accept me into a program at FIT, he hired me. He had 2 tailor shops in NYC ad he had me working one on one with another tailor/designer Frederich Blum. Scalise was pretty respected in tailoring and a very successful designer. He was the first American designer to have his name placed on the label with the brand name. He had a very exclusive clientele. Celebrities, politicians, sports figures. Blum had started two tailoring schools in Europe and before moving to NY was the designer/pattern maker for Angelo Litrico in Rome. Spent 2 years there, learned pattern making and how to put a jacket together. It was one of those “I don’t like the way you knotted the thread, rip it out and do it again” kind of apprenticeships. Learned to be meticulous there.
Met a tailor who had been a coatmaker for Caraceni in Milan. He was basically a one man shop and he hired me. Spent three years making suits with him. Many tailors start to take short cuts or compromise. He wouldn’t, and that’s why I wanted to work with him. Spent the most time at a sewing machine making the canvass. Almost anything that could be done by hand, we did by hand. This was my PHD work. Refined my skill set. From the beginning to this point in time was 9 years. It is 1981 and I started working on my own but started very slowly. When you are being trained you are shown what to do and have a lot of supervision. I wanted to “own’ my training experience and spent the next 5 years working from home. Made every jacket with my own hands for five years before hiring anyone else to work with. Hired a pantmaker after the first year. Now I have 4 coatmakers and a pantmaker. At present I do a little sewing on the clothes but nothing significant. Do all the patternmaking, fitting and prep every jacket for finishing. Everyone that works with me has a more impressive resume,they have all owned their own business at one time. The newest guy has been with me 15 years and 26 years for one of my coat makers. I am very fortunate with this staff.

To be clear, I didn’t work with Litrico but with a designer/patternmaker that worked 10 or 12 years for him. Here is an interesting link to who Angelo Litrico was.
post #22 of 45
In the 1960s, at the height of his fame, Angelo Litrico used to advertise:
Quote:

Angelo Litrico, tailor to Heads of State.
When in Rome, tailor to you!

By the late 60s or early 70s he had sold-out, licensing his name to C&A (a very lowbrow European fashion retailer).
C&A is still turning out cheap rubbish under the AL label.
Quote:
Angelo Litrico
Fashion you love to wear.

Angelo Litrico for C&A offers a large range of modern fashion for today's urban male at an exceptionally attractive price. A wide assortment of casual clothing is perfect for a laid-back, relaxed day. The collection is inspired by the latest fashion developments whilst ensuring maximum comfort and wearability for today's modern male.
post #23 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billster View Post

38 inch waist isn't really proportionate to 6'1"

What would be considered proportionate for my height?
post #24 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post

ive had the opportunity to try out kiton/brioni/attolini/tom ford/isaia and one of my friends oxxford suits for RTW, and for bespoke NSM and steed. i have to say that even though rtw fits me perfectly with just the waist taken in a bit my favorite suit the one from steed. Feeling wise they are just on a completely different level. If you have the money to spare try one of the firms from saville row you wont be disappointed. I can only really recommend Edwin Debois from steed as he is the only one ive had the pleasure of commissioning a suit from. TBH though if you have an athletic frame try out Tom Ford. I got a hand me down from a friend of mine and i just keep finding myself reaching for it every time i have to dress up.

Thank you. I will look into Steed though I believe he is a descendant of A&S and I'm am not drawn to that silhouette like many with discriminating taste are. I'm sure it is damn comfortable though.
As for Tom Ford, I find his style fun with the exaggerated expressions, and yes, the fit is very good for an OTR. He loses me on fabric choice though. I find that his fabric just doesn't have a good enough hand at his price point. I believe NM is selling his OTR suits for roughly $4,500.
post #25 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

I think your missing several points though which you may or may not care about:

1. Your Savile row suit is unique to you and i always think the process and the prestige of that counts for something.

2. You will probably find that even though your figure is good your movement in the suit will be better and it will feel more comfortable. I am doing basted fittings for a client now who is really into his clothes, he's a German fellow who used flew to fly to Naples to get his bespoke suits made before coming to me in NYC. He started off on MTM but now we are doing Bespoke for him. At his try on he commented that it felt so comfortable that it was like wearing a sweater.

500

500

3. At the end of the day (and too right Im biased) English tailoring is still the best in the world. The English are the originators, when its done well its the best. I think English tailoring at a high level is like French cuisine its the finest in the world.

4. English tailoring is maybe more rough round the edges in some ways but I think this is part of the charm, its also a different more robust look. Its like talking about English shoes with thicker soles vs the Italian shoes. Those Italian shoes are more dainty but they last a season. A savile row suit can be expected to last a very, very long time, if your making it out of a heavy cloth perhaps a lifetime.

5. If you like Kiton fabrics and the luxury look, get your Savile row tailor to break out the Dormeuil and Loro piana books.

I can see though the appeal of getting something right away or quickly. In fact my highest spending client at Richard James (who bought everything in the store twice every season) always bought OTR or MTM because he didn't have the patience for Bespoke.

Thank you, David. I appreciate you taking the time to write so extensively. As for the bespoke process, yes, I do agree, there is value in going through it. I had two suits made in Buenos Aires at a shop named Tomassos, where the taillor was an old Italian man who made everything by hand. That is what first got me excited about bespoke. Just going through that process. Now I am having a suit made for considerably more at Huntsman. There, I was drawn to not only the cut and silhouette but also the history of the firm and SR. I am attracted to the idea of having a suit not many people have or ever heard of, at least certainly here in San Francisco. We'll see how it turns out. However, now that I have gotten to enjoy that aspect of the process I wonder if for a frame like mine I can get things faster and pretty darn good through M2M italian. For example, Kiton fits maybe better than my iItalian tailor's bespoke suits from BA. I know Huntsman is top notch but they are far away and realistically, I can't afford to make them my go to tailor for everything given the exchange rate. (until a world class tailor decides to set up shop in San Francisco, I guess I am stuck in this dilemma.)
post #26 of 45
I second the recommendation for Despos. He's done great work for me and others.

MinnMD
post #27 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

If I weren't my own tailor, Chris would be.

For whatever that's worth.

Well, he can still be your tailor. You two should make a suit for each other and document the process on your blog. Take this mutual admiration thing to the next level... devil.gif
post #28 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by MinnMD View Post

I second the recommendation for Despos. He's done great work for me and others.

MinnMD

Thank you for the good word.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

If I weren't my own tailor, Chris would be.

For whatever that's worth.

Well, he can still be your tailor. You two should make a suit for each other and document the process on your blog. Take this mutual admiration thing to the next level... devil.gif

Wes, If you supply the cloth, I'll supply the labor.
post #29 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

If I weren't my own tailor, Chris would be.

For whatever that's worth.

Well, he can still be your tailor. You two should make a suit for each other and document the process on your blog. Take this mutual admiration thing to the next level... devil.gif

Wes, If you supply the cloth, I'll supply the labor.

Hey I supplied the idea, you guys figure out the details. jefferyd might still have some H&S, or some other cloth you could make up for him.

Now, what cloth will he use for yours?
post #30 of 45
Could use a new grey flannel, not too dark, not too light.

I have the light grey from that stack of cloth of the H&S goods. It's cut but not made up yet.
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