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First Blazer/Suit-DB?

post #1 of 40
Thread Starter 

Hello,

 

I'm a soon-to-be College graduate looking to buy my first real suit-or rather, the first suit since I lost 130 pounds over the last four years.  I'm 6'4, 190 pounds, with an abnormally long neck, big head, and long legs.  I'm interested in getting a double-breasted blazer or suit in navy, for the following reasons;

1) Tired of the 60s trend that has so profoundly influenced my generation

2) Want something that can project a certain amount of confidence 

3) Love traditional English menswear, and DBs are certainly in that mode

4) I think I now have the frame-tall, thin-to effectively pull it off.

 

A few questions though;

1) DBs are "power-suits"-is it presumptuous for a recent college graduate to wear one to an interview?

2) I'm hoping this will make my head look proportional, but I suppose this depends on the individual blazer.

3) Where could I get a great one?  I'm interested in J.Crew's offering, as I want something 4-4 with minimal aesthetic buttons and a trim cut, no pinstripe, but I'm afraid the lapels are a bit short for the style, and they only offer it at the online store.  Where can I at least try one out?  It would be hard for me to rationalize anything above 700.

 

Any links or suggestions welcomed.  

post #2 of 40
I wouldn't get DB suit as my first. Start conservative, then when you get a job, you can have more fun. Short answer, where to shop for $500-$700 suits, I favor Saks Off-Fifth or Brooks Bros.
post #3 of 40
No employer is going to judge you if you wear a nice conservative suit, even if it not a brand that folks around here endorse. The goal is to be comfortable, not show off you sartorial skills. Don't get a Double Breasted Suit or Jacket. You will look silly at a job interview.

Go to a high end mall and try on suits at Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Nordstroms, Nieman Marcus, etc. Find something that fits you well off the rack. All these places are having clearance sales at this time of year. I have bought a great suit at each of those places for under $700 over the last couple years, but you have to try on a bunch to find out what fits.

Go as conservative as possible. You want something that no one will notice if you wear twice in one week. A nice brooks brothers suit is never going to be far "out of style" if it fits you well.

Or go to Jos. Banks, people around here hate on it, but their suits are ok for the money if you can get the high end ones. You can probably get a couple suits and a blazer for under $700 if you pick the right sale.

I have a simple gray Jos Banks suit that I got ten years ago that clients often comment on how nice it looks and it cost a fraction of my nicer stuff. I wear it once or twice a year just because.

Avoid anywhere online. Buy a suit that fits well off the rack, you can waste a lot of money trying to get something tailored all over the place if it does not fit well initially.
post #4 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by chet31 View Post

I wouldn't get DB suit as my first. Start conservative, then when you get a job, you can have more fun. Short answer, where to shop for $500-$700 suits, I favor Saks Off-Fifth or Brooks Bros.

I would agree here the DB can be nice but is not a good first suit. It is something you can aquire down the line once you have established yourself more. Brooks Brothers is a nice start I think Jos A Banks works well too. they run amazing sales on their signature collection it runs around 700-800 and if you catch the sale you can end up getting 3 for that price plus alts.
post #5 of 40
I would not suggest a DB suit as your first suit (perhaps if this were the 80's when that was the more common business attire). A DB suit can be a nice addition to a wardrobe if you like the style, but not as a first suit - perhaps as your 4th or 5th suit.

Also note that there is no such thing as a 4x4 DB. The first number is the number of exposed buttons, the second number it the number of buttons that button the jacket closed (not counting the interior button). So, if you have a DB jacket with 4 buttons (2 on the left and 2 on the right), the first number is a 4. If only one of the buttons on the right can go through a button hole you have a 4x1, if both buttons on the right go through a button hole, then you have a 4x2.

Given your dimensions I would suggest a 6x2. A 6x3 needs to be worn with a sailors cap (in my opinion). In any case, wait on the DB until you have at least a couple of single breasted suits (or jackets) to work with.

Brooks Brothers is a good place to start. Avoid mail order (like Jos A Banks) until you know what feels good on you (then you will know what doesn't feel good on you when you get something you ordered online).

You might also want to consider adding some weight to the suit by getting pleated pants with cuffs, and avoid slim cut suits. A full cut suit with waist suppression added by a good tailor can make a great looking suit.

Wear ties with diagonal stripes, like club ties, that are not too narrow, to help balance out your head size. I have a rather large head myself and wear 7 fold Italian silk ties because they are a denser tie, and help balence out the visual weight of my head.
post #6 of 40
Please don't wear a DB suit to a job interview. You might as well come in like Marty McFly fromt he future with two ties.
post #7 of 40

A Ludlow suit in wool herringbone is simple enough for a job interview, just pair it with white dress shirt, and diagonally striped tie, sleek black lace-up shoes.

post #8 of 40
2 things:

1. Don't get a DB as your first suit
2. Don't spend $700 on your first suit think more like $300
post #9 of 40
You don't say anything about your chest size. If it's puny, then I'd say go with a conservative 6x2 DB. Solid navy or solid charcoal, black buttons. Matte fabric. Button at the waist button, always. You need the wide lapels, the spread show buttons, and the short lapel to balance you out. It won't bother people: gangly guys need all the help they can get. You won't look silly at a job interview.

If your chest is normal or large, then I'd advise SB. If you want something of the elegance of DB, then get it three-piece. Three-piece SB is more versatile than DB or 2-pc SB anyway. Make sure you get the trousers cut for wearing suspenders or braces, and wear 'em when you wear the vest. You're tall, so you want to accentuate horizontal lines. What Flusser says about this in Clothes & the Man seems right: Get the coat fitted a little generously. Do not get the currently fashionable trim cut/slim cut: that will only accentuate the vertical. Shoulders can be a little on the broad side. Go for bulkier fabrics: don't get the smoothest, softest worsted you can find. Think texture. Make sure the coat hem falls below the beginning of the buttocks' curve.

As for the goose neck: Have someone make you a shirt with a high collar band.

DB or a vest should probably be made MTM or bespoke. $700? Look around for local tailors who do custom and ask about silhouettes. Somebody might be able to get a Coppley DB for you for not too much more than that. English American in Maryland seems to do good MTM 2-pieces for around that. In NYC, check out LS or Mr. Ned.
post #10 of 40
Don't let people be your judge.... As long as you feel comfortable in DB then most often people can't care more, majority of people can't even tell difference of lapels, flashy fabric is the one ought to be dismissed.

I am not as tall and big as you, 5 foot 11 with 161lbs, but I like to wear DBs and people like it. I put on a DB for an office interview, and got the job

It is your attitude that matters the most

Both DB and SB would be great, make sure they are in great fit

Hopefully no one will bring on the rigid doctrine of notch lapel for starter, that is bullshit as well
post #11 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

You don't say anything about your chest size. If it's puny, then I'd say go with a conservative 6x2 DB. Solid navy or solid charcoal, black buttons. Matte fabric. Button at the waist button, always. You need the wide lapels, the spread show buttons, and the short lapel to balance you out. It won't bother people: gangly guys need all the help they can get. You won't look silly at a job interview.

If your chest is normal or large, then I'd advise SB. If you want something of the elegance of DB, then get it three-piece. Three-piece SB is more versatile than DB or 2-pc SB anyway. Make sure you get the trousers cut for wearing suspenders or braces, and wear 'em when you wear the vest. You're tall, so you want to accentuate horizontal lines. What Flusser says about this in Clothes & the Man seems right: Get the coat fitted a little generously. Do not get the currently fashionable trim cut/slim cut: that will only accentuate the vertical. Shoulders can be a little on the broad side. Go for bulkier fabrics: don't get the smoothest, softest worsted you can find. Think texture. Make sure the coat hem falls below the beginning of the buttocks' curve.

As for the goose neck: Have someone make you a shirt with a high collar band.

DB or a vest should probably be made MTM or bespoke. $700? Look around for local tailors who do custom and ask about silhouettes. Somebody might be able to get a Coppley DB for you for not too much more than that. English American in Maryland seems to do good MTM 2-pieces for around that. In NYC, check out LS or Mr. Ned.

For lapel width, look for four inches or more.

I do think chalk stripe works the best with DB, that can be a good choice as well.

Your size is very likely to render a custom made garment, look for shops and don't go online, communication is the most important factor for tailoring, if the tailor don't see you in person it is hard for him to make something decent.

For trouser with braces buttons, go for side tap design, it is strange to have both belt loop and braces together

Good luck with your find
post #12 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturdays View Post

Please don't wear a DB suit to a job interview. You might as well come in like Marty McFly fromt he future with two ties.

I lol'ed
post #13 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Don't let people be your judge.... As long as you feel comfortable in DB then most often people can't care more, majority of people can't even tell difference of lapels, flashy fabric is the one ought to be dismissed.

I am not as tall and big as you, 5 foot 11 with 161lbs, but I like to wear DBs and people like it. I put on a DB for an office interview, and got the job

It is your attitude that matters the most

Both DB and SB would be great, make sure they are in great fit

Hopefully no one will bring on the rigid doctrine of notch lapel for starter, that is bullshit as well

1. peak lapels are far less noticeable than a DB, but still considered inappropriate for a very conservative environment.

2. A 21 year old in a DB suit is going to look odd at an interview...period. especially when he leaves the coat buttoned while seated
post #14 of 40
Ignore the twitchy pantywaists who would rather be caught dead than wearing anything beside a 2 btn SB notch collar. eek.gif
If you like a DB, get a DB. Solid conservative color. Don't spend big bucks- look on B&S or one of the vendors that advertise here.
post #15 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post

Ignore the twitchy pantywaists who would rather be caught dead than wearing anything beside a 2 btn SB notch collar. eek.gif
If you like a DB, get a DB. Solid conservative color. Don't spend big bucks- look on B&S or one of the vendors that advertise here.

So you really think a kid straight out of college should get a DB as his first suit? I tend to think DB look ridiculous, but even if I didn't, I couldn't in good conscience recommend a DB as a first suit.
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