Hello Fellow Styleforum Members!
I live in Hong Kong S.A.R., China.
I'm 17 currently.
Ultimately want to help my country (China & Taiwan) and also help the betterment of Southeast Asia.
In a few years after I complete my political education in Japan, I wish to do my very best to help unify North & South Korea by appealing to cultural closeness, and afterwards focus on the Mainland/Taiwan disunity problem.
I realize the value of soft politics, and want to set a good example for my fellow countrymen/women.
Sartorially speaking, I admire the style of the Republican Period China (民国时期) and the 1910-1960 elegant period of menswear.
My mother is a prolific designer of Qipao/Cheongsam (旗袍/长衫) and designs for herself. She has a vast collection of these dresses which number over 2000 individual dresses, each worn only once, and this collection is growing steadily. All of them bespoke commissions. Because Hong Kong bespoke prices are half or less than those of Saville Row, in addition to being convenient, it is also cost effective to build personal style (relatively speaking, because 1500-2000 USD for a commission is considered a large amount in HK, especially since we have a cultural value of frugality).
Personally, I appreciate but don't follow super-count wool fabrics (super 150s, 200s, 300s, etc). I prefer the more "frugal" English Flannels, and prefer suiting with a "furry" appearance, e.g. Melange/Tweed/Flannel/etc.
I believe suits that are too flashy undermine the values of Chinese culture, and therefore look for an elegant medium that is neither overtly flashy or overtly sloppy. To overdo/underdo is easy, but this medium is difficult to find, and is different for everyone.
I admire the Black Fleece line of Brooks Brothers, and most pieces in my current wardrobe are Black Fleece (bought on discount of course).
My current existing wardrobe (as of 2016) has no bespoke items (only OTR/RTW), and consists of (all full-canvas unless stated otherwise):
1. Black Tie 2-button Wool Barathea Silk Grosgrain Notch Lapel Tuxedo (Black Fleece)
2. Black Tie Single-Breasted Hidden Placket Silk Dupioni Grosgrain Notch Lapel Overcoat (Black Fleece, to match Tuxedo)
3. Vintage Russet Brown Single-Breasted 1-button Silk Velvet Dinner Jacket with Shawl Lapel (Johns & Pegg Bespoke
Commission, bought in excellent condition 2nd hand after Brexit, made in the late 1950s to early 1960s)
4. Black/Grey Check w/ Pink Accent 3-roll-2 Notch Lapel Tweed Sport Coat (Black Fleece)
5. Brown 2-button Melange Tweed Notch Lapel Sport Coat (Black Fleece)
6. Navy Flannel Notch Lapel 2-button Suit with Grey/Red/Grey Thin Stripe (Black Fleece)
7. Navy with White Chalk-Stripe Wool/Cashmere/Mink Flannel 3-roll-2 Notch Lapel Suit (Black Fleece)
8. Cream/Brown/Coffee 3-roll-2 Linen Sport Coat (Black Fleece, unlined)
9. Khaki Double Breasted Cotton Gabardine Trench Coat (Black Fleece)
+ an assortment of 200+ Neckties/self-tie Bow-ties, around 100 OCBD shirts (all Black Fleece), 1 Black Tie Backless Silk Vest in V&A Lattice Pattern, and 30 pairs of odd trousers (Corduroy, Cotton Velvet, Cotton Flannel, Irish Linens, Cotton Twill, etc), and domestically produced silk socks/underpants with Xinjiang long-staple cotton undershirts.
Am contemplating bespoke commissions in October-November this year in time for December, and want to update wardrobe with double breasted drape-cut suits, raglan sleeve suits, etc.
I own a vintage steel dress watch made by Jules Jurgensen in the 1950s-1960s; thin, Caiman Strap, and 30x30mm square (I have thin wrists!)
I admire the illustrations of Esquire Menswear in the 1910-50 period, and I hope to gain the same classic elegance of those Golden Periods.
Producers/Companies on my radar:
- Swaine Adeney Brigg (Luggage and Silk-Canopy Umbrellas)
- Lockwood Umbrellas (Cotton Canopy Umbrellas)
- Globetrotter (Luggage)
- Lock & Co. (Hats)
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (OTR/RTW)
- Brooks Brothers Own Make (OTR/RTW)
- Fox Flannels (Fabric)
- Hardy Minnis (Fabric)
- Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Fabric)
- Victoria & Albert Museum (Inspiration from Archives/Bespoke Fabric)
- Gordon Yao (Bespoke)
- The Merchant Fox (Fabric/OTR)
- Anderson & Sheppard (OTR)
- Frederick Scholte (Old Patterns from V&A, Assistance for Bespoke Tailor)
- Turnbull & Asser (Shirts/OTR/Underwear)
- Budd (Shirts/OTR)
- Charvet (Shirts)
- William Abraham (Socks)
- Pye派 (Shirts, Undershirts)
- Edward Green (Shoes)
- Albert Thurston (Braces)
- New & Lingwood (OTR)
- Darcy Clothing (Detachable Collars)
That's all I can think of for now... this database may be of help to some of you that are new to menswear and want to get started!
I believe in no polyester/synthetics, and I strongly urge others to take upon this pledge; synthetics are bad for the environment, and they are itchy, uncomfortable, and unable to replicate the luxury of natural materials (Cotton-Spandex is incomparable to WISICA Sea Island Cotton, for example).
My mother set an example for me to dress well, and that habit has carried on until now, regardless of what the majority think.
I believe in a good impression and living life to the fullest, a moralistic mindset, and dressing the part is part of the game.
I encourage all members new and old to stay true to their culture and principles, and to adopt dressing modestly but elegantly in order to ease some of the pressure that this *cruel* world places on our shoulders!
I also encourage all to adopt a larger budget for their wardrobe, for dressing well is an investment, no different from property, equities, gold, or a car.
Bye for now!