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Equus Leather - Bridle Leather Belts - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 119

post #1771 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzyJones View Post

Not controversial at all and I totally agree! Simply pointing out how it may appeal given the current museum obsession!

Good stuff and good point :-)

Charlie
post #1772 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Just had another very quick look through the photos I'd taken earlier. I think this one shows how well the calf burnishes and the richness and complexity of colour it develops. As you can see from the Barenia the wallet is sitting on its quite flat and matt when its new but not at all with use.



Anyway, enough Barenia photos for one day :-)

Charlie
post #1773 of 1785
Why wouldn't Barenia be the first choice for all applications? In other words, when should you prefer bridle leather? Is it just color choices? Are there differences in durability?
post #1774 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Why wouldn't Barenia be the first choice for all applications? In other words, when should you prefer bridle leather? Is it just color choices? Are there differences in durability?

Interesting question.

Bridle leather is robust, really quite weatherproof given leather feed and comes in a reasonable colour range. It ages well but not to the same spectacular degree. Its beautiful when new as well as when old. Critically in order to really be bridle leather it is in the 3 - 4mm thick range. That means it can be used in a single layer which makes for a simple, long-lived product (decades is common) that therefore is reasonably affordable particularly over the years.

Barenia ages spectacularly as we've seen today. Its relatively boring when very new and can have an ugly duckling stage as its used. You need patience to get what Ive shown and its not great for people who want things to look like new for ages - it just won't. It only comes in 1.5 (wallet/watch straps) and 2.2mm (belts) versions so critically it has to be lined for nearly any application, particularly belts. Therefore whilst we certainly can and do make belts from it they have to be fully lined and stitched so they are expensive. The leather itself is also ruinously expensive and the only source is owned by Hermes

Its horses for courses I suppose. If you love leather, patination, hand stitching and the craft of leather goods Barenia is amazing stuff, rare, and deeply beautiful given some patience. You'd spoil it if you subjected it to some of the abuse bridle leather will put up with though and you wouldn't want given the price.

Hope that helps answer the question!

Charlie
post #1775 of 1785
Thread Starter 
I lied about no more Barenia photos - this is a belt to illustrate the construction. In due course these will be on the website with the Parisian buckles, the Damascus buckles and a version for the Stratfield belt kit



Charlie
post #1776 of 1785
Err-mah-gerd!! Shame that's about a week's wages right there!
post #1777 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzyJones View Post

Err-mah-gerd!! Shame that's about a week's wages right there!

Is fair to say thats one of the more expensive combinations we make... I am the guilty party in this case, its my belt, though there is one other in existence. The history of this belt was that it was used as a sample for a luxury goods industry thing we did last year so I used the acid-etched buckled Id commissioned and made the belt in my size and so I could snaffle it afterwards to go with the watch strap and wallet. It hasn't seen much use yet though so no interesting photos. I actually don't have as many of our things as you might think, I love what I love so my personal collection is quite focused

The other thing to note from these photos is the Ecru thread. I talk to people all the time about custom commissions, L&Rs watch straps etc and a common theme is people worry about light thread getting dirty. All the barenia photos Ive posted have Ecru stitching - its a great combo. All of the photos show how little it has changed, if anything the contrast gets stronger with age.

Charlie
post #1778 of 1785

Hey Charlie,

 

I don't know if you'll do it, but is it possible to commission a very special buckle from you that is a copy of a designer buckle that I have?  I'd be happy to provide pictures and dimensions.  I own the belt, but the buckle is, as for a lot of designer buckles, not as designed for durability as your buckles (the two belts that I have from you are exemplary).  The leather strap is not something that would probably be in your ballpark.  It is a very thick, deliberately uneven thickness, cowhide.  But I like it.  I am really looking for a better made, thicker, version of the accompanying buckle.  It has multiple bars and 2 prongs...

 

Cheers,

 

Fok.

post #1779 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Hey Charlie,

I don't know if you'll do it, but is it possible to commission a very special buckle from you that is a copy of a designer buckle that I have?  I'd be happy to provide pictures and dimensions.  I own the belt, but the buckle is, as for a lot of designer buckles, not as designed for durability as your buckles (the two belts that I have from you are exemplary).  The leather strap is not something that would probably be in your ballpark.  It is a very thick, deliberately uneven thickness, cowhide.  But I like it.  I am really looking for a better made, thicker, version of the accompanying buckle.  It has multiple bars and 2 prongs...

Cheers,

Fok.

You're Hermes Man, aren't you?
post #1780 of 1785

What is the discount code for SF member? I keep forgetting...

post #1781 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar2013 View Post

What is the discount code for SF member? I keep forgetting...

Its StyleForum10% or theres a short code of SF10% as well, both should work. It should be on the bottom of any of our adds on here as well :-)
post #1782 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Hey Charlie,

I don't know if you'll do it, but is it possible to commission a very special buckle from you that is a copy of a designer buckle that I have?  I'd be happy to provide pictures and dimensions.  I own the belt, but the buckle is, as for a lot of designer buckles, not as designed for durability as your buckles (the two belts that I have from you are exemplary).  The leather strap is not something that would probably be in your ballpark.  It is a very thick, deliberately uneven thickness, cowhide.  But I like it.  I am really looking for a better made, thicker, version of the accompanying buckle.  It has multiple bars and 2 prongs...

Cheers,

Fok.

It might be, it just depends on the buckle style and construction. Send me a photo and I'll take a look. Im actually going to a meeting of Artist Blacksmiths this weekend to recruit an English buckle maker to work with. I love the stuff we're bring in from Japan and we're going to keep doing it but we also have a big tradition of great iron work here in the UK as well so I'd like to be able to produce some Special Editions showcasing great metalwork from here as well. We also have great jewellers (as we're showing with the Sterling Silver Mayfair) and I'd like us to produce more work of that style as well.

Glad the belts are doing well :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post

You're Hermes Man, aren't you?

:-)
post #1783 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Hi All,

We've had one Rentetsu for a 1 5/8" strap released from a placeholder, so available to buy. Its a nice one! Slightly lighter patina than some of them and really good Mokume effect



Its on the website as buckle no 6
http://www.equusleather.co.uk/belts/special-edition-belts/the-rentetsu-belt.html

Charlie
post #1784 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Equus Leather View Post

Hi All,

We've had one Rentetsu for a 1 5/8" strap released from a placeholder, so available to buy. Its a nice one! Slightly lighter patina than some of them and really good Mokume effect



Its on the website as buckle no 6
http://www.equusleather.co.uk/belts/special-edition-belts/the-rentetsu-belt.html

Charlie

Taken!
post #1785 of 1785
Thread Starter 
Hi Guys,

With all the posting about Barenia over the last few days I thought I'd post some bridle leather pictures so it doesnt feel left out!

We're really lucky to have such easy access to the J&E Sedgwick Bridle leather. Its a leather I've worked with throughout my adult life and because of that and the fact the tannery is only 150 or so miles away its really easy to get complacent about it but by reputation and my own experience its (along with Bakers - very different but the joint first place holder) the best bridle leather in the world bar none. Its the leather we are best known for using and what the majority of our belts are made with.

As I said a couple of days ago one of the best things about good bridle leather is it's about the perfect thickness (3 1/2 - 4mm) to make a single layer belt, which means we can make something lovely from world class materials without it having to be as expensive as a fully lined belt is. For example (some of you will have seen these but for the new guys)









http://www.equusleather.co.uk/belts/bridle-leather-belts.html

However its possible to make a fully lined and stitched belt using the same bridle leather. We've spent years developing our skills to be able to produce our Lined and Raised belt in bridle leather that has edges of around 4mm and a centre of around 5mm, so a belt that has a lot of presence and huge wow factor without being ridiculously heavy or inflexible to wear. The work we've done developing this is whats informed all our stitched work ever since, like the watch straps and Calf belts. Because we make each belt one at a time for its owner every detail can be configured





http://www.equusleather.co.uk/belts/lined-and-raised-belts/the-lined-and-raised-bridle-leather-belt.html

Pictures of the Bakers leather soon so it also doesnt feel left out :-)

Charlie
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