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Fabric Quality: H. Lesser and Thomas Fisher? - Page 3

post #31 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Here is the way I see it:

Manton, a superb summary.

Why you not included a chapter like this in your book?

Andrey
post #32 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by sellahi22 View Post


A number of tailors on the London Lounge have stated that Lesser is the best cloth to work with. Frank Shattuck for one, but I know there were others.

Seems Frank Shattuck just changed his mind about Lesser.

http://thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9804&start=45#p57364
Quote:
Originally Posted by old henry 
Quote:
Originally Posted by old henry 
The understated H.Lesser is more elegant than other cloth for that reason. Understated. The H.Lesser 13oz book is by far my favorite book. It has a deep rich weave and a beautiful heavy hand - and for drape .....look no further . "Super" this and "Super" that cloths are nonsense. A percentage of cashmere is a gimmick. 13 oz H.Lesser ? You got it right. It is the best. {in my humble opinion of course}.... Shrink all cloth ...Frank .

Just for the record.. and for what it is worth....I no longer endorse H.Lesser
post #33 of 48
A follow-up post from Frank Shattuck on London Lounge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by old henry 
Badden ,Sir.. I was also asked by another member on a PM why I no longer endorse Lesser.. here is why.... They HAD the finest greatest toughest most elegant old school handsome serious cloth ever. ,, they are letting all of their books run out. theyll be replaced by limp weak "sexy" cloth like most everybody else. They are letting go the 16 oz book.. my heart breaks .. their rich sturdy flannels book. the tropicals book- my favorite book ever-tropicals.. wow what a cloth.... The13oz???.. . They may replace these books BUT GODDAMN IT they will be cashmere blends or a weak cloth like their 11oz book or the other 91/2-10oz or what ever blend crap book that is.. AND they might as well make them in Peru or where ever the f..k .. Like that Holland Sherry crap.. The new owner knows nothing about what he has. he is a slick businessman who wants to turn this dinosaur around update it.. Good by. But he will make money on the name . . He wants to work on new books.. He has the greatest cloth in the world and he has no idea. Keep the old books and let the world know what you have,, but why ? no market for great old goods. Cheeze it up. If it aint broke dont fix it.. but it aint broke its dead... .The old men who understood Lesser are all gone..dead. morte. The mentality to make a suit to last forever is gone. . the tailors that used to ply this strong cloth with their strong hands are gone gone gone. The sledge hammer of mediocrity has just slammer down on the greatest cloth house ever. I make suits to last forever and I need a cloth to last forever.. HLesser was my cloth.. WAS.. The world needs a slap..
post #34 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Seems Frank Shattuck just changed his mind about Lesser.

http://thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9804&start=45#p57364


He didn't change his mind on the current non-cashmere/non-super books, he just doesn't like the new direction of the company.
post #35 of 48
FWIW, LBD just sent me what they refer to as the "new" 13 ounce book. Bearing in mind that I'm no fabric expert and don't own any Lesser's 13 oz from the old book, this fabric seems very good. It doesn't seem gutless at all. Springs back well from crumpling, and the finish is very dry. Colors are deep. The blues are especially good.
Edited by Mr. Pink - 8/24/11 at 2:25pm
post #36 of 48

FWIW, my London-based tailor is very happy with the LBD acquisition as "the cloth will now be in-stock, and Lessers will start acting like a proper business." He didn't think the quality had degraded with the acquisition.

 

post #37 of 48
I was wondering if anyone has thoughts on how warm the Lesser's 13 oz. wears. For example, if I'm fine in the Lesser's 10 oz. to 80 degrees, would the 13 oz be good to 75 or would it be more like 65? Also, am I correct in assuming that half lining will make no difference in how a cloth like this wears?
post #38 of 48
Half lining would definitely make no difference.

I don't find that the 10 and 13 wear all that differently in terms of temp. I can't take the 10 in 80 degrees though, more like 75. The 13 is OK for me up to about 70.
post #39 of 48
Dear Members of the Style Forum

As one of the new owners of H Lesser I think it is only fair that you actually are given the correct information regarding H Lesser and Son.

With reference to a previous post by Mr Shattuck I want to reassure the Members that we are NOT letting the H Lesser books run out. Indeed we have just re-issued the 13oz last month, and the 11oz, 120s and new Formal Wear bunch will follow suit over the next two weeks.
Additionally the H Lesser flagship range, Lumbs Golden Bale, has been relaunched throughout the world.

All the ranges, new and old, continue to be manufactured in Huddersfield, England, to the highest standards. NONE of the H Lesser cloth is imported from overseas.

The new owners of H Lesser and Sons have been involved in the woollen industry since 1895. We have a very proud tradition and belief in all our products and the service we provide. Our knowledge of cloth is exceptional and we will put all our efforts in to ensuring that H Lesser will continue to be held with such high regard with our trade.

We fully appreciate Mr Shattuck's comments but must stress that perhaps some further research should have taken place before he made these harsh statements.

I do hope that the above clears matters up for the Members. Should you have any further queries please contact James at Harrisons of Edinburgh or through our website at www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com.
post #40 of 48
BUMP ^^^
I didn't realize that the owners of Harrison's read SF.

A post from another thread. . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.P.Cru View Post

Firstly i would like to say this is a very sad time for all british merchants .H.lesser and son as far as im concerned were until recently the most famous independent merchants left in England. The real problem is people love to talk about british cloth being the best etc.etc.etc ...and what they say is true ....however most of the suiting world unlike your goodselves dont know ...dont understand quality....and the key factor THE PRICE....Lesser have the perfect match with harrisons.Both family owned companies with similar buying methods ie....British cloth. The key to survival even for Harrisons will come down to a simple factor.....educating the consumer about british cloth

I agree with you that consumer education is key. But, there are few with the knowledge who are willing to share. It is only through the proselytism of these few that convinced me to try H Lesser in the first place. I like my coats from the 13 oz and 8/9 Jacketing books so much that I also have suits made from 8/9 Tropicals and 13 oz Flannel in the works. I'm also planning to make suits from 16 oz and 11 oz Golden Bale cloths in the near future.

In addition, there are few professionals on the internet forums who discuss how to evaluate the merit of cloth. I think many forum participants would appreciate any insights you have to offer.
post #41 of 48
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but can anyone comment on wrinkle resistance of lessers tropical 8/9oz? Does it compare to minnis or smiths frescos?
post #42 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but can anyone comment on wrinkle resistance of lessers tropical 8/9oz? Does it compare to minnis or smiths frescos?

 

Not even close - its a standard worsted (albeit a well woven one) that creases as such.

post #43 of 48
I think I should stop trying to get around buying a fresco and just buy a fresco
post #44 of 48
Some more comments on Thomas Fisher fabric in this thread would be appreciated.
post #45 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWraith View Post

Some more comments on Thomas Fisher fabric in this thread would be appreciated.

Everything I've heard about the Royal Classics and English Classics collections indicates that it's sturdy, non-fancy stuff at a great price.
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