Originally Posted by Despos
Will check it out when I get to the shop.
We look at cloth from differing perspectives. You judge on how it wears or feels when you wear it and I look at how it is to work with, like how easy or hard it is to sew or how it responds to heat or steam.
You are the only tailor who has ever told me that escorial and the like are easier to work with than Lesser. The rest of the, to a man, all prefer Lesser. Some may like the properties of the other stuff but they all say that Lesser is easier to work.
My experience is that Lesser holds a crease better, resists wrinkling more, and falls more cleanly, and shakes out wrinkles faster than anything else. It does not "feel" as nice (or smooth or soft or whatever) than more lux cloth but then it's mostly not against my skin anyway. Except at the legs and I have never felt the least uncomfortable or "scratchy" in Lesser.
I buy a lot of Minnis, mostly the fresco, but their 340/370 book too, and it is good but not quite so good as Lesser 13. Smith IMO is the only merchant who maks a worsted comparable to Lesser. There is a Harrison book called (I think) Oyster which is very nice but it's the only one.
BTW I have a tie made out of Escorial and it is quite lovely but I can't imagine it as a suit. Seems like the seat would wear through in one day.
Lesser is definitely dull.