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3 roll 2.5 with peaked lapels - Page 5

post #61 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

me thinks 3 roll 2.5 more elegant/classy than 3 roll 2. I like the roll to be most pronounced well above the buttoning button. Even on a 2 button i want the roll to be 1 to 1.5" above the button. Looks better when buttoned.

I mostly agree but I like the iammatt Rubinaccis, which are close to 3 roll 2.

My experience with Solito has been a bit unusual. For my first suit, I asked for SB 3 button but rolled to 2. I don't remember exactly what I said but I communicated my strong dislike for the high buttoning three button. What he delivered was a 3 button coat that rolled pretty much directly to the middle. I liked it. I subsequently went back for six more, all in one order, all in the same style. Two blues were delivered first. These were more of a 3 roll 2.5. The roll was quite a bit higher but still well below the top. I liked these.

A few months later the other four arrived. The linen was rolled more like the first coat, almost to the middle (but not quite). The solid gray fresco was rolled like the two blues. The gray nailhead was rolled quite bit higher and the tan tropical was rolled almost like a true 3. The tan one is consequently the one I like the least. It’s not quite a true 3 but I am hoping that with wear the cloth and canvas will soften and that roll will fall.
post #62 of 84

Just as a side note, I've noticed some of my jackets have a more pronounced and longer lapel roll. If not buttoned the whole lapel bows out in a nice long curve. It would be hard to tell exactly where the roll "ends". Whereas a couple other jackets have a more defined point where the roll folds over. It's usually just above the middle button. I have no idea about the technical part, but it seems the two tailors are doing it differently. Both jackets are meant to button just at the middle with the show buttons top (and bottom).

 

 

post #63 of 84
^^ It seems like Mina's default preference is 3 roll to 2.5, I've seen where she made some 3 roll to 2 but didn't care for it much. Also, it seems that on some of your jackets, she did 3 roll to 2 and on some 3 roll to 2.5
post #64 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post


The other thing is why you would waste your time trying to pretend you were the possessor of some sort of esoteric knowledge just for knowing such a thing. God, I hope you guys have better things to do than force your tailors to make crap like this just so you can feel like a bespoke connoisseur iGent.

Lulz, cannot believe no one has picked up on this yet. QFI indeed.

In honour of Sator, I propose we rename '3r2' to A3BTIAA2BWAETB (a 3 button that is actually a 2 button but with an extra top button) and '3r2.5' to A3BWTBPOAH2BJ (a 3 button with the buttoning point of a high 2 button jacket).

Both can come under the blanket term of IGEKTRMNAMAT (iGent esoteric knowledge that really means nothing and merely annoy tailors).

Rolls off the tongue, really. nod[1].gif
Edited by apropos - 8/9/11 at 7:18pm
post #65 of 84
Thread Starter 
Hypocrite is obviously, hypocritical.
post #66 of 84
Aah crap. Just order a DB cheers.gif
post #67 of 84
Thread Starter 
I'll drink to that.
post #68 of 84
Thread Starter 
Wait, a 6x2, 6x1, or 4x2 confused.gif There are differences there, right?
post #69 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Wait, a 6x2, 6x1, or 4x2 confused.gif There are differences there, right?

There 'ya go, complicating things again.

Just pick your number and pull the trigger. Easy-peasy.
post #70 of 84
Thread Starter 
I was just poking around on Jeffery's website and I found this quote by him, "the collar is what controls where the lapel will break. The chest piece, bridle tape and pressing may help to support it, but the collar must be on right for it to break in the right spot; that's why the forumites' experiments with "re-rolling" button-3 jackets into button-2 or 3-roll-2 are ill-advised- you really need to alter the collar to get the lapel to consistently roll to a different point."
post #71 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I was just poking around on Jeffery's website and I found this quote by him, "the collar is what controls where the lapel will break. The chest piece, bridle tape and pressing may help to support it, but the collar must be on right for it to break in the right spot; that's why the forumites' experiments with "re-rolling" button-3 jackets into button-2 or 3-roll-2 are ill-advised- you really need to alter the collar to get the lapel to consistently roll to a different point."

Patrick,

I believe Manton has also made statements of a similar regard. That the tension on the collar is a big factor in where the roll will naturally fall.

Doing a simple experiment on my own (pulling the back of the collar on an unlined, uncanvased cotton jacket of mine by Isaia) I can see that this does indeed seem to have a big effect. I tried it on this jacket because it is so unstructured and I wanted to see the effect without the structure of the canvassing.

Just my $0.02 worth in regard to a topic about which I really know almost nothing.
post #72 of 84
Thread Starter 
Yes, i know, just another confirmation from an expert.
post #73 of 84
About 10 years ago I got a suit that was fine overall except one thing. On the right side of the jacket, the lapel rolled to the waist button but on the left side it rolled well past. It looked horrible unbuttoned and kind of bowed when buttoned. I took it back to the tailor and he said, "Oh, looks like a tight collar on the left side, sorry." He had to take the collar off and re-attach to fix it but it was fixed, perfectly.
post #74 of 84
Thread Starter 
Ok, the latest commission that I had was a 3 roll 2.5 (don't worry no peaks) and I like it a lot. It begins to roll pretty much right under the top button. I think there is something to be said about true 3 buttons that naturally over time fall open. I actually think I prefer this. It seems to make a more three-dimensional dramatic roll than jacket made to roll to 2.5. This being said I am not sure what to do with the top buttonhole. Which side should I get the butthole worked on? I am thinking both sides..
post #75 of 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Ok, the latest commission that I had was a 3 roll 2.5 (don't worry no peaks) and I like it a lot. It begins to roll pretty much right under the top button. I think there is something to be said about true 3 buttons that naturally over time fall open. I actually think I prefer this. It seems to make a more three-dimensional dramatic roll than jacket made to roll to 2.5. This being said I am not sure what to do with the top buttonhole. Which side should I get the butthole worked on? I am thinking both sides..

Both sides. Care to share a picture? I'd like to see how it turned out, I plan to have all my stuff like that.
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