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Cheap opportunity for bespoke suit with excellent fabric -- please ensure I don't blow this!

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Hi SF, a series of fortunate circumstances has given me the chance to have a skilled tailor make me a bespoke suit with fabric I provided. I am currently vacationing with my family in Asia, and I visited a tailor my family's been going to ever since they moved there ~10 years ago to get some shirts taken in and slimmed (for the ridiculous price of $2 per shirt...). While I was there I noticed rows of suits on the walls, and found out that he's been making bespoke / mtm suits for a large portion of his life. Coincidentally, my grandfather gifted my dad enough quality fabric from Dormeuil a few years ago, and he offered to give it to me if I was really interested in a suit. So SF, please help me not mess this up!

I'm not looking for much for what will be my first legit, non-OTR suit. While the fabric is excellent, my grandfather DID choose it, and as such it's rather old-fashioned -- near-black base with just a hint of green, and very very faint white and red pinstripes. I'm thinking i'll stick to relatively conservative choices -- padded shoulders, notch collar, 2-button... here, though, is where my knowledge of suit details ends, so again, help would be highly appreciated!

-I am six feet tall, Chinese with medium-dark skin (so black doesn't look all that bad on me), with a fairly athletic build. ~160 lb., and I usually go for shirt size 15-15.5 / 33-34. BB Slim Fit in those measurements pretty much fits me spot on. I'm kind of curious about button stance... iirc the top button should be relatively close to my bellybutton. For my first suit, am I correct in assuming it's not something I should play around with? Also, I was wondering in what kinds of suit a 3/2 roll (if I got the term correct) would be appropriate.

-Anything I should watch out for about gorge, waist, high / low armholes, vents, etc.? or should most competent tailors be aware of these? I guess something I am concerned about is that the tailor seems relatively old-school and fond of full-cuts. I know I'm probably going to request slightly slimmer sleeves, a suppressed waist, and higher armholes... anything else I should watch out for?

-(this is a bit embarrassing) I have a pretty average waist size, slightly larger thighs from working out but nothing unordinary; however, the males from my dad's side seemingly have historically large... posteriors... apparently it's genetic, as I have some cousins who are extremely skinny except in that certain area. As I am an average sized person overall, this tends to mess up my proportions somewhat, as when I buy trousers OTR, they assume people with 30-32 sized waists have 30-32 sized butts. I have no idea how common or rare this is, but if anyone is in a similar situation, your input would be appreciated.

This has gotten a bit longer than I've intended so tl;dr: Getting bespoke suit made on the cheap. Conservative fabric = conservative style; I'm a 6 ft Asian college student with fairly average measurements, fire away with suggestions and warnings, please! Also, my milkshake brings the boys to the yard.

Thanks for any and all help!
post #2 of 6
Thread Starter 
post #3 of 6
I would suggest not using that fabric for your first bespoke suit. It can take a few tries to get a fit you are completely happy with and it sounds like you are still unsure about pretty important details (armholes, vents). I would start with a simple navy or grey suit which is more versatile than the unusual fabric you are describing.
post #4 of 6
Truly. Use some cheap fabrics for the first trial.
post #5 of 6
Thirded. Nail down the fit on his cheapest decent fabric, and if there isn't time for a second suit while you're in Asia, leave the fabric with him and have him ship it to you later.
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the advice, guys. I already have the "staples" in my wardrobe (dark navy, gray, and... black shog[1].gif).

Good point about saving the fabric -- I honestly hadn't thought of doing a trial run at all. His office IS filled with rows of suits of his making, though. Would it be enough to just find one that fits me well, and get him to make the necessary adjustments?

I flipped through a lot of pictures and read a lot yesterday and I think I've decided on details except for the height of the armholes, which I'll talk to the tailor about later today.

Thanks for the help so far.
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