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Mark McNairy Spring 2012--McNairy Unbound
Photo: Pete Anderson. Overheard: "Please tell me these are men's shoes."
Words and vast majority of photos by Jon Moy
Mark McNairy has become the enfant terrible of the menswear world. From extra-long boxer shorts, to camouflage with embroidered smiley faces, McNairy takes very traditional pieces and makes them, well, his. There is no question that a shoe with a denim upper is a bit out there. The same goes for a "fuck off" pocket square. Or polka dot bathrobes and short sleeve cardigans made out of terry cloth. But somehow it all seems to work. McNairy reminds us that we can take clothes and dressing ourselves too seriously and that it should all remain fun in the end.
The polka-dot bathrobes are a McNairy x Engineered Garments joint.
The footwear, as always, was a mix of great traditional English made shoes and McNairy’s own penchant for neon and camouflage. The double monks are improved with a fuller apron and there are some new leathers and other materials mixed into the collection.
McNairy lately has been more known for his footwear than apparel designs. And while there was no dearth of great shoes on display at (capsule) the newly expanded clothing selection was definitely notable. Perhaps due to his designing for other menswear labels (J. Press and now Woolrich Woolen Mills) McNairy’s eponymous clothing line seems almost a reaction to constraint. Camouflage shorts and backpacks are embroidered with daisies and smiley faces. All-over print shirts were displayed next to neon pullover anoraks and wavy repp ties.
But anchoring all of this color and attitude were simple (in the best sense of the word) patch pocket jackets and suiting, including seersucker. Animal print made a strong showing in McNairy’s booth as did his new "fun shirt"--featuring a more subdued mix of prints and colors. All in all this was one of Mark McNairy’s most complete showings and it had the feel of a runway collection--everything together, while cohesive, seems over the top. But taken individually, there are some real stunners available.
Jon Moy is a Styleforum contributor. You can read more of his stuff at gettingbeatlikeyoustolesomething.