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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 50

post #736 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Fuck me, just ordered another pair. Don't even have my first order yet. So I have coming black shell punch caps and black shell wholecuts.

Patrick - didn't you want to wear your first pair for a few weeks to see how the fit settles down with wear before ordering your second pair (e.g. incase any minor adjustments are needed to the last)?
post #737 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I have cracks in pretty much all my old shoes. I don't mind. I did just send a pair of G&G bespokes back to Tony for resoling. He said he could do something about the cracks so I am hopeful.

Really interested in seeing how this turns out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dib View Post

Patrick - didn't you want to wear your first pair for a few weeks to see how the fit settles down with wear before ordering your second pair (e.g. incase any minor adjustments are needed to the last)?

Yeah that went out the window.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Did anyone happen to see the pictures that Ethan Newton from the Armoury posted on his Tumblr blog?

He visited the St Crispin's factory last week after going to the most recent Pitti Uomo.

Here are a few samples - you can also just look on his Tumblr blog for posts in early July:

http://ethandesu.com/post/54503519952/shell-cordovan

http://ethandesu.com/post/54492357514/trees-one-of-the-great-parts-of-saint-crispins

http://ethandesu.com/post/54505657842/an-exceptional-double-monk

That pair of shell cordovan shoes might be mine. Supposedly they are on their way so if that was last week it very well could be. I can't tell if they are black and just not finished yet on the edges of the patterns. Well, I got them in black, same size, and same last.
post #738 of 2109
Does anybody know, if they have shoes like in stock, or are they all made as orders come in?
post #739 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

I don't know if Ethan is using the term shoemaker liberally or not, but eight makers is a lot for a workshop.

p.s., pegged waist is probably an easier construction to create a narrow waist. most high end bespoke makers do actual blind welt stitching instead of pegged to show off their techniques.

 

On the assumption SC only makes about 1500 pair per year...8-10 makers probably sounds about right for a workshop...and also on the assumption that some of the shoe components are outsourced..i.e. sole work.....For a town similar in size to Northampton, remember Brasov has quite a few shoe manufacturers also making shoes for other firms....
post #740 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Does anybody know, if they have shoes like in stock, or are they all made as orders come in?

 

There's a high-end department store in Austria called Steffl that stocks 5-8 range of the SC shoes....They are RTW and also offer MTO service...Prices range from €900 to €1300.
post #741 of 2109
No, no, I mean their workshop. If I order a pair from Leffot from the official StC catalogue, for example I want model 215 in black does St.C have this at their shop they would ship directly to Leffot, or would they start physically making the shoe when they get the order?

I'm just wondering because if they make them all from scratch upon getting the order then there is no incentive (time waiting) to just order from their book. If I can get a shoe in 2 weeks rather than 4 months that would incentivize me not to get fuddy-duddy on the MTO details.

Btw, I first read your name as Iloveboobs.
post #742 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post


Btw, I first read your name as Iloveboobs.

Lol, who doesn't ! clearly the first thing that comes to your mind mate.
post #743 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

I honestly don't know how you guys do it, none of my shoes have cracks yet (max life 5 years so far). That include things ranging from Testoni/Ferragamo to CJ bench and handgrade then onto EG/GG

I wear my shoes a lot. Wore a hole in the sole of the shoes being sent back to G&G.
post #744 of 2109
All of my shoes are holy. I mean hole-y. frown.gif
post #745 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I wear my shoes a lot. Wore a hole in the sole of the shoes being sent back to G&G.

bottom I understand, but crack on upper, I don't quite get it. I walk a lot in NYC (or used to), a lesser extent when I was in London, but 3 miles a day easy and my upper hasn't crack. Maybe I got lucky, who knows...
post #746 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

No, no, I mean their workshop. If I order a pair from Leffot from the official StC catalogue, for example I want model 215 in black does St.C have this at their shop they would ship directly to Leffot, or would they start physically making the shoe when they get the order?

I'm just wondering because if they make them all from scratch upon getting the order then there is no incentive (time waiting) to just order from their book. If I can get a shoe in 2 weeks rather than 4 months that would incentivize me not to get fuddy-duddy on the MTO details.

Btw, I first read your name as Iloveboobs.

 

lol....very good........... My alias offended 3 types on SF...1) Those who dislike bobbs......2) Those who dislike Lobbs....3) Those who dislike nudity....
post #747 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovelobbs View Post

On the assumption SC only makes about 1500 pair per year...8-10 makers probably sounds about right for a workshop...and also on the assumption that some of the shoe components are outsourced..i.e. sole work.....For a town similar in size to Northampton, remember Brasov has quite a few shoe manufacturers also making shoes for other firms....

At say 6 pairs of shoes per day, 5 days a week, and 50 weeks a year, that's 1,500 pairs already for one single shoemaker. Or say if I am grossly overestimating their efficiency by 1x, it still takes only two shoemakers to make 1,500 pairs per year.

By definition, shoemakers are the ones that takes clicked and closed uppers, soles, and lasts and assembles them together into a pair of shoes. Clickers, pattern makers, closers, last makers, fitters, QA, etc, are not shoemakers.
post #748 of 2109
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post


At say 6 pairs of shoes per day, 5 days a week, and 50 weeks a year, that's 1,500 pairs already for one single shoemaker. Or say if I am grossly overestimating their efficiency by 1x, it still takes only two shoemakers to make 1,500 pairs per year.

By definition, shoemakers are the ones that takes clicked and closed uppers, soles, and lasts and assembles them together into a pair of shoes. Clickers, pattern makers, closers, last makers, fitters, QA, etc, are not shoemakers.

 

Interesting numbers Chogall....I got the 1500 figures from a quote from SC...couple of years back. I am sure these figures may have increased for 2013 due to popularity of the brand and increased sales outlet from new vendors like Leatherfoot and others....... And presuming their wholesale price of say about €350 to €450 per pair (based on 2x mark-up) their average revenue on 1500 is about €600K...is that alot of wonga for such an operation???
post #749 of 2109
Still no answer to my question regarding their stock vs. mto. Did it fall by the wayside, or does nobody know?
post #750 of 2109
You should ask Steven Taffel or St. Crispin.
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