or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 5

post #61 of 2182
^ well done man. how is the fit?
post #62 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

^ well done man. how is the fit?

The fit is great- SCs have a ton of stability at the arch due to wood pegs they put in at that area. While this pair lacks the pegs, it remains very stable at the arch. I wouldn't consider myself someone who needs arch support, but for some reason the added stability makes SCs extremely comfortable. SCs are the most comfortable RTW shoes IMHO.
post #63 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


Thank you! Tom and I designed it by taking elements of the Dover and incorporating it into the JM Weston Chasse. We then added the Norwegian welt. I have a last at SC- not bespoke, but they took a standard last and modified it. Not sure what to call it. Anyhow, the shoe is available for special order at LS.
http://leathersoulhawaii.com/new-arrivals/


I know that SC does the made-to-order last adjusting program, but how do you derive the measurements/adjustments?  Did you travel to Hawaii/LA to be measured/fitted? 

 

SC can do no wood pegged soles?

 

They look truly amazing, especially the double row reverse welt stitching, and remind me of a pair of bespoke Delos boots posted somewhere online.

post #64 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post


p.s., Fritzl EG Dover sets a pretty high bar for NST

nope nod[1].gif
post #65 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post


nope nod[1].gif

 

Well at least in the Anglo-American world of RTW shoes, Dover looks better than G&G Hove and JL Chambord in my opinion.

post #66 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post


I know that SC does the made-to-order last adjusting program, but how do you derive the measurements/adjustments?  Did you travel to Hawaii/LA to be measured/fitted? 

Unfortunately, this was done primarily by trial-and-error. Tom knows my feet pretty well simply by what I've ordered in the past, and our similarly sized and shaped feet. He was therefore able to help me choose the correct adjustments to the custom last. Furthermore, the first couple pair of SCs purchased pre custom last were not perfect fits, but allowed us to make logical choices regarding alterations (I'll probably be selling these BTW). I'm sure there is a more straight-forward way to do this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

SC can do no wood pegged soles?

Wood pegs at the waist are the standard for SC. I asked for this pair to come without them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

They look truly amazing, especially the double row reverse welt stitching, and remind me of a pair of bespoke Delos boots posted somewhere online.

Thanks!
post #67 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

nope nod[1].gif

Up late, or up early again my friend. Insomnia?
post #68 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

I have a last at SC- not bespoke, but they took a standard last and modified it. Not sure what to call it.

sounds awesome. how is the procedure? i can imagine that this generates some interested parties among the sf crowd.

imo, this is the advantage of flexible units like e.g. St. Crispins.
post #69 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

Up late, or up early again my friend. Insomnia?

7 am is not insomnia happy.gif
post #70 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


Wood pegs at the waist are the standard for SC. I asked for this pair to come without them.

why?
post #71 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


Wood pegs at the waist are the standard for SC. I asked for this pair to come without them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

why?

Because those shoes are in Norwegian construction.

StCrispin2.png

The top-row of stitching goes through upper leather and insole. The upper leather is then folded out (it doesn't go underneath). The second row of stitching goes through the folded-out upper leather into the middle sole. Then the upper leather is cut-off to form the step that is quite visible in the photograph. On the bottom of the step is a third row of stitching, which connects the middle- with the outer sole. (Although it is possible the second row goes through middle- and outer sole and there is no third row. Difficult to see in the picture.) So you have at least two (if not three) rows of stitching to connect upper to bottom.

The wood-pegged waist in St Crispin is in place of any stitching. The sole is stitched 'ball to ball' not 'breast to breast'. So the pegs are needed to provide a connection between sole and insole.
post #72 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by b1os View Post

Nice shoes, JB.
User "Posh" from www.newsaboutshoes.de once repaired a St. Crispin.
From Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

To
She documented the whole process and revealed some details that she wasn't very happy about quality-wise. Anyway, if you're interested, here's the thread: http://www.newsaboutshoes.de/showthread.php?t=804 Maybe Google translate helps, otherwise PM me and I'll help as much as possible.

Regarding the stitching of the welt to the outsole which Posh seems to take issue with you can clearly see the machine they use for this process in the following video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uQE51-FuZg

In my opinion this does not diminish the quality of the final product one bit. They are still hand welted and that is the main point.
post #73 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post



was the heel made this way due to specific needs of your foot?
post #74 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Regarding the stitching of the welt to the outsole which Posh seems to take issue with you can clearly see the machine they use for this process in the following video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uQE51-FuZg
In my opinion this does not diminish the quality of the final product one bit. They are still hand welted and that is the main point.
This was just one of a few criticisms (mostly shortcuts used and some "carless mistakes"; and some misguiding phrasing on their website, esp. w/r/t the stitching). Anyway, I just posted the link so people can have a look at the "interior" of the shoe and form an opinion themselves, not to discredit St. C in any way.
post #75 of 2182
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

Great stuff guys. Love the captoe and medallion. that shoe is perfection, imo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

I really dig the grain on these.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

+1. They actually look Russian Reindeer-esque, just without the scoring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post

+1. I can't get enough of that Inca calf.

Quote:
Originally Posted by incontro View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
A great choice!

Thanks guys!
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

was the heel made this way due to specific needs of your foot?

No (at least I did not ask for it). But they feel great!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread