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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 262

post #3916 of 3930
If you're referring to the coin sized lump in the middle of the heel pad, that is usually a result of the insole molding itself to the bottom of the last. And it's usually a sign that the heel of the shoe has been nailed.

Some lasts have "bottom plates" intended to turn or "clinch" the points of tacks and nails during constriction. Those points are invariably subsurface to the grain of the insole. Clinching the nails "permanently" affixes them.

But shoemakers use nails to attach the insole to the last, as well. These nails must go into the last, they cannot turn on a bottom plate. So half-inch-sized holes are made in the bottom plate to allow the insole to be mounted.

The lump in the middle of the heel is generally where the hole for mounting the insole is. The insole has been driven into that hole and taken an impression of it. It will generally settle.

Smaller lumps are more likely to be paste residues--either the paste (which is often starch or flour based) wasn't mixed thoroughly or moving the heel pad around caused it to bunch up. I seriously doubt that they are heads, or clinched points, of nails although nail are very likely used.
post #3917 of 3930
@DWFII

The coin circle not as much as the relatively regurlarly spaced raised dots, see right of the black line in 2nd pic (sorry, they suck a bit in sharpness). All in, the combination of very thin footbed cover and the irregularity of the finish doesn't inspire me too much. I doubt A.Meccariellos have this "flaw". And again, neither have the a.m. other makes.
post #3918 of 3930
Could even be improperly floated pegs...although I thought I was the only one pegging heel seats and heel stacks. that said, St. C makes a point of using pegs.

A lot of makers (I'm not one of them) believe that for the peg to hold it must penetrate the insole entirely and / or "mushroom" on the bottom plate...which leaves a small lump on the grain side of the insole. If a maker subscribes to that idea, it would be counter-productive to sand or float the peg heads flush.

I don't think they are nails because of the nature of nails...if the heads (or tips) of the nails were proud it would indicate that they weren't driven hard enough to hold the heel on.

edited for punctuation and clarity
Edited by DWFII - 6/14/15 at 9:46am
post #3919 of 3930
@DWFII

Thanks a lot for your thoughts. For now I shall just relax and enjoy them while they last.
post #3920 of 3930
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Let me remind everybody...
14931476-0638-4362-99DE-F1A34B81144D_zpsvnnf45bg.jpg

But they are BLACK!
post #3921 of 3930
And?
post #3922 of 3930
These are two pairs I had resoled that recently returned from the factory.

They looked pretty good before but came back with a great shine!



Warning: More pics (Click to show)






post #3923 of 3930
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsuo View Post

These are two pairs I had resoled that recently returned from the factory.

They looked pretty good before but came back with a great shine!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Warning: More pics (Click to show)







Looking great! What are the specs on the first pair?
post #3924 of 3930
Thank you, it has been nice to wear broken in shoes.

They are the model 105 in 607 CRU with a croc inlay. Inspired by these (Click to show)
post #3925 of 3930

Good day gentlemen,

 

I wish to clarify a matter regarding SC's personalized last vs customized last. What is the difference?

 

Thank you all.

post #3926 of 3930
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackster145 View Post

Good day gentlemen,

I wish to clarify a matter regarding SC's personalized last vs customized last. What is the difference?

Thank you all.

Email us at sales@skoaktiebolaget.se, or your preferred StC retailer, and we'll walk you through the process.

Basically you can either make up your own last, or you can add fitting pieces to an existing standard last. If you plan on ordering several StCs the most economical route is to make up your own last, this is a one time charge while the fitting pieces surcharges will be added on every order you place.
post #3927 of 3930
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackster145 View Post
 

Good day gentlemen,

 

I wish to clarify a matter regarding SC's personalized last vs customized last. What is the difference?

 

Thank you all.

 

This should help.

 

MTO:  Taking a stock size, without any modifications to the fit, and choosing all of your details (things like leather, color, sole construction, etc).

 

MTO w/ Last Adjustments:  You are fit in a stock size and width but the fit could be improved through adjustments made to the last.

 

At their factory in Brasov, Saint Crispin's has a "last park" of shoes in every size and width.  On an MTO with Last adjustments they take the size that you were fit in and add cork pieces onto that last based upon the fitting pieces designated.

 

Experience fitting is preferred from this step forward.

 

MTO w/ Personal Last:  Similar to the MTO with Last adjustments except in this case you are making more extensive changes.  Additionally, with a personal last, you can rasp off areas of the last not just add.  This is especially helpful for people with narrow heels.  Also, this can be more cost effective if you plan on ordering several pairs with fit adjustments as you don't have to pay for adjustments each pair, you simply pay for the last up front.

 

MTO w/ Personal Last and Trial Shoe: Same as above but a trial shoe is made in scrap leather to test your personal last and make further adjustments before putting the shoe into production.

 

Jeff

post #3928 of 3930
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffArmoury View Post

This should help.

MTO:  Taking a stock size, without any modifications to the fit, and choosing all of your details (things like leather, color, sole construction, etc).

MTO w/ Last Adjustments:  You are fit in a stock size and width but the fit could be improved through adjustments made to the last.

At their factory in Brasov, Saint Crispin's has a "last park" of shoes in every size and width.  On an MTO with Last adjustments they take the size that you were fit in and add cork pieces onto that last based upon the fitting pieces designated.

Experience fitting is preferred from this step forward.

MTO w/ Personal Last:  Similar to the MTO with Last adjustments except in this case you are making more extensive changes.  Additionally, with a personal last, you can rasp off areas of the last not just add.  This is especially helpful for people with narrow heels.  Also, this can be more cost effective if you plan on ordering several pairs with fit adjustments as you don't have to pay for adjustments each pair, you simply pay for the last up front.

MTO w/ Personal Last and Trial Shoe: Same as above but a trial shoe is made in scrap leather to test your personal last and make further adjustments before putting the shoe into production.

Jeff

Great overview that was really to the point!
post #3929 of 3930

Love these shoes.

 

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post #3930 of 3930

Thought about a pair in a different colour/sole material Roger?

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