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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 152

post #2266 of 2759
Originally Posted by ianGP View Post

Keep rowing that douche canoe...


   now Ian . . . . don't be so harsh.  the man is clearly more intelligent & 'better' than the rest of us,

   particularly if you are a stoopid amerikan.    let go of the rope, sit back and allow Geronimo the opportunity to

   school us on class or conduct one or just perform a mental masturbation dance


   either way, grab your popcorn, watch the show

   . . . . s/he'll tell us everything we need to know in due time.          suggestion over now

post #2267 of 2759
Thanks for keeping me in check @SoGent

Popcorn in hand lurker[1].gif
post #2268 of 2759
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

This also implies that the hide used is from an older animal, and not a young calf...

As a general rule, yes. But I've seen smaller skins with fat wrinkles...depends on the animal. The moment the animal is up and moving around (after birth) fat wrinkles begin to set in as the neck and shoulder are moved. Short of what Thornton termed "milk calf" I suspect that the leather derived from any grazing animal...at any age...will have some degree of fat wrinkling.

Now having said that, I reiterate...best practices dictates that the vamps be cut from the prime areas, which, again amount to only a third of the hide not including the shoulder.

So, it begs the question, doesn't it? If one pair of vamps is cut from the kidney area (prime) and another pair (or two) is cut from marginal leather, does a maker charge less for shoes made from non-prime areas such as the shoulder? Do they make it clear to the customer?

To be fair, shoulder isn't necessarily waste. If I were making a pair of shoes for knock-around usage, for myself, I wouldn't hesitate to use carefully inspected shoulder for the quarters and maybe even the vamps. For instance, I have some left over Annonay French Calf that has already had a prime cutting removed--a pair of clear, pristine vamps for whole cut oxfords. What's left is over the rib cage and in the shoulder and does have fat wrinkles, but is otherwise pretty good quality leather.

Personally, I don't think I could, in good conscience, even offer that leather to the customer...much less charge him like it was prime. But seeing as how I paid exactly the same dollars per square foot for the shoulder as the butt I am not going to throw it away either. I'll use it...if only for fitter's models.

Of course cutting for maximum usage of the hide (regardless of quality) is common practice in all factory work. The marginal leather is paid for at the same rate as the prime. And throwing leather away is exactly the same as throwing money away. You can't afford to do that when you're trying to maximize profit and keep prices competitive with other makers who occupy the same niche.
post #2269 of 2759
Originally Posted by Itsuo View Post


  1. Does anyone know what color St.C has that is close to a dark burgundy. Something like GG Rioja?  
  • I have seen the color 611 like in the example below but that appears to be more of a cherry color than a dark burgandy. 



You can ask them to lay some heavy antiquing on it and it will be much darker...I chose that route.

post #2270 of 2759
To be honest, I think virtually all well-known brands will not use only prime parts for their RTW or MTO shoes.
post #2271 of 2759
Received these yesterday smile.gif

post #2272 of 2759
Very nice!
post #2273 of 2759

Those are beautiful @gusvs, congrats! 

post #2274 of 2759
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

Very nice!

Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Those are beautiful @gusvs
, congrats! 

Thanks guys! I'm very satisfied with how they came out!
post #2275 of 2759
Originally Posted by Ilovelobbs View Post


Depends what your collection consist of? 


Yes of course you are correct.  It was meant to be a kind of joke.  For me the St.C's will be much nicer than my existing collection (to include some MTOs I'm still waiting for) so it's easy to think I should just offload everything else and make them the new standard.   I'll try to hold out until I receive my first order before ordering anymore, maybe.  

Originally Posted by Fiddler View Post



You can ask them to lay some heavy antiquing on it and it will be much darker...I chose that route.

Thank you.  So did you order a pair in 611 and ask for the antiquing or did you just mention wanting a final color and let them decide how to provide it for you?  Also would you mind linking me to a photo of it? 

post #2276 of 2759
Originally Posted by Farhad19620 View Post

I have listed these for sale in the SC anyone interested please send me an email, I have just never had a chance to wear these.

photo EE4E2693-A19B-4492-A6B2-651A78CC23CB_zpsc2plqonw.jpg

Very cool combination!!!

post #2277 of 2759
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

Received these yesterday smile.gif

beautiful loafers! Love the mild spade sole.
post #2278 of 2759

Great smoky brown colour.

post #2279 of 2759

Those are very elegant loafers...I really like the hand stitching and contrast stitching of the apron...I like that apron in general...and the shape of the last is very good for that loafer.


Is it the classic last?


I would buy those shoes...

post #2280 of 2759
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post

Very cool combination!!!

Thank you Giannni, the only problem buying these makes of shoes is when it comes to selling them no one wants to know! Not like my JL, EG or C&J which sell within minutes! LOL
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