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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 152
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As a general rule, yes. But I've seen smaller skins with fat wrinkles...depends on the animal. The moment the animal is up and moving around (after birth) fat wrinkles begin to set in as the neck and shoulder are moved. Short of what Thornton termed "milk calf" I suspect that the leather derived from any grazing animal...at any age...will have some degree of fat wrinkling.
Now having said that, I reiterate...best practices dictates that the vamps be cut from the prime areas, which, again amount to only a third of the hide not including the shoulder.
So, it begs the question, doesn't it? If one pair of vamps is cut from the kidney area (prime) and another pair (or two) is cut from marginal leather, does a maker charge less for shoes made from non-prime areas such as the shoulder? Do they make it clear to the customer?
To be fair, shoulder isn't necessarily waste. If I were making a pair of shoes for knock-around usage, for myself, I wouldn't hesitate to use carefully inspected shoulder for the quarters and maybe even the vamps. For instance, I have some left over Annonay French Calf that has already had a prime cutting removed--a pair of clear, pristine vamps for whole cut oxfords. What's left is over the rib cage and in the shoulder and does have fat wrinkles, but is otherwise pretty good quality leather.
Personally, I don't think I could, in good conscience, even offer that leather to the customer...much less charge him like it was prime. But seeing as how I paid exactly the same dollars per square foot for the shoulder as the butt I am not going to throw it away either. I'll use it...if only for fitter's models.
Of course cutting for maximum usage of the hide (regardless of quality) is common practice in all factory work. The marginal leather is paid for at the same rate as the prime. And throwing leather away is exactly the same as throwing money away. You can't afford to do that when you're trying to maximize profit and keep prices competitive with other makers who occupy the same niche.
You can ask them to lay some heavy antiquing on it and it will be much darker...I chose that route.
Yes of course you are correct. It was meant to be a kind of joke. For me the St.C's will be much nicer than my existing collection (to include some MTOs I'm still waiting for) so it's easy to think I should just offload everything else and make them the new standard. I'll try to hold out until I receive my first order before ordering anymore, maybe.
Thank you. So did you order a pair in 611 and ask for the antiquing or did you just mention wanting a final color and let them decide how to provide it for you? Also would you mind linking me to a photo of it?
- St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread
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