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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 149

post #2221 of 3030
New shoes, old socks
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post #2222 of 3030

Those are lovely, pB.

post #2223 of 3030
Thank Saint Crispin's they did the hard work! Buying them is relatively easy!
post #2224 of 3030
They still need to adjust the pattern for cap toes so that the crease sits outside of toe cap.

Very interesting pattern compare to the other of their Adelaide U throat, this pairs U throat pattern looks much more fluid and normal.
post #2225 of 3030
Meh
post #2226 of 3030
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiddler View Post


Ive seen this style attempted by a few but the proportions and aesthetics on these are perfect. If i venture into sc again, these will be top of my list.


I agree - definitely top of my list.

post #2227 of 3030
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

New shoes, old socks

I'm not bothered by the creasing, these really look great!icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Whenever I get around to selling my current work shoes and replacing them with some Crispins, this model will be on my list.

For some reason the first photo makes these look like a deep navy blue. Knowing enough about you, I'm sure they're black but that would be an interesting color for these as well.
post #2228 of 3030
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

New shoes, old socks
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Very very elegant...compliments

post #2229 of 3030
Oh, there's definitely some fishy creasing going on with that black pair. They never should appear beyond the cap. Other than this, it's yet another beautiful pair from Romania. I wonder who trained their workforce about a decade ago...or if the country had talent and cordwainer schools all along.
post #2230 of 3030
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Oh, there's definitely some fishy creasing going on with that black pair.

I would urge everyone who finds such creasing abhorrent to really sit down and think about the mechanics of how a shoe is made and how it functions. In an ideal world no one wants creasing...anywhere...but especially beyond the toe cap.

But the foot has to finds its place in the shoe and then the shoe has to move with the foot.

If the vamp point of the shoe is moved "back," in order to maintain a certain harmony of proportion the toe cap has to get longer--it has to move back accordingly. And the chances of creasing beyond the edge of the toe cap increase accordingly.* I suspect that if someone did a study of old line, classic British shoes with their notoriously short toe caps compared to more contemporarily styled shoes, one would find that the older, more fuddy-duddy looking shoes crease forward of the toe cap significantly less.

But there are other reasons a shoe will crease forward of the edge of the toe cap...

If the foot is too long in the shoe--some people have long toes; or if the shoe is misfit, the toe cap will tend to crease.

If there is little or no toe spring creases will be created from the joint/treadline as far forward as the toe stiffener and the need for the foot to flex and push off the large toe require and allow--IOW,more creases further forward are likely.

And if the toe stiffener is not set back enough, or is too thin/weak the chances of the toe creasing are increased. On the other hand, if the toe stiffener is set too far back it will tend to bite into the toes as the shoe walks. And in most cases, especially with double curved, "peaked" toe caps, the cap is already further back on the shoe than the toe stiffener can be placed without causing problems for the foot.

If you want to minimize the chances of creasing forward of the toe cap limit your choices to straight toe caps. I suspect that's the one and only surefire solution.

Every form of refuge has a price.

*I've got even money that when the shoes depicted in posts 2215 and 2216 in this thread are broken in, they will both crease beyond the edge of the toe cap.

--
post #2231 of 3030
It's stiffener too short for SC. But their lasts are designed shorter than usual.
post #2232 of 3030
I think there's too much fuss about creasing and the toe cap. To some degree I think this idea is made up by people on the internet. Shoes crease, if they are comfortable, so what? Fwiw, I have never owned any shoes that didn't crease in the cap. I don't think it's endemic to Saint Crispins. I do have toes that kind of "curl" making them somewhat shorter, maybe that's the issue.
post #2233 of 3030
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

It's stiffener too short for SC. But their lasts are designed shorter than usual.

Looking at the photos in 2215 and 2216, you couldn't prove it by me.
post #2234 of 3030
That I do kind of notice, my toes extend further into the toe of the shoe than on my English shoes. I'm just happy they don't hurt me. Creases-shmishes.
post #2235 of 3030

@patrickBOOTH

 

those u-caps are the ones you ordered at the most recent Leffot trunk show right?...

 

 

 

that means mine should be incoming soon...

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