Originally Posted by JoeGat
I understand, but then, going down half a size and not sizing up a width does not really help. Once you get the size which fits length, the next step, normally, is to fit for width. Sometimes it requires sizing up 2 extra widths.
The point is that SC is the only range of shoes I know where i can size a shoe to fit within about 1/4 inch of my natural foot length and this, together with the hand crafting excellence of the shoemaker, achieves a very "bespoke" feel.
This is why I size down from EG or Lobb UK 9E to a 8.5G in SC, with great success. Of course, the last is very important as well when you look for that bespoke fit.
There is no way in Hades I could do this with EG or G&G, no matter which last we try it with. EG and G&G are ALWAYS more than 1/4 inch longer than the natural length of the foot.
Perhaps I have a "SC" shaped foot? LoL
But you're right, foot shape and form is obviously the key to it all.
I do not know if Saint Crispin or Philip Car believe a toe allowance (the empty space between the end of the toes and the end of the shoe) as short as 1/4” (6 mm) to be a good fit, but to me this is extremely short and likely to cause a sub-optimal fit (resulting in grown-in toe nails and bunions) .
Here is the other extreme, a fitting by Lobb, Paris with a toe allowance in excess of 30 mm
Here is the full photo feature
and here the discussion in this forum a few years back
Too short and too wide is also the most likely explanation for the crease forming within the toe cap here.
Originally Posted by PiedBeau
this maybe ?
The end of the (relatively long) toe cap exceeds the point where the toes bend which is in turn defined by the position of the ball line. The length from ball to heel is one of the most important measurements in shoe fitting.
Presumably like all things in life, the golden rule is moderation, which would be a toe allowance of somewhere between 16 – 22 mm. If you are happy with 6 mm toe allowance, good for you. But it’s really not something one “should try at home”.