or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 94

post #1396 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank the sheep View Post

Have a pair og GG Arran in grain that is very even in the texture. Maybe GG doesn't strech the leather so hard?
.

Very nice. Scotch grain. And you may be correct.

However, although it's hard to see the toes clearly, it looks to me as if they are much smoother than the leather up around the top of the quarters, for instance, and the leather just above the welt in the forefoot area also looks like it has flattened some.

All that said, some texturing is going to be more resistant to flattening than others.
Shrunken grain, for instance, has a lot of residual stretch built into the leather as a result of the shrinking process. Something like Scotch Grain can be embossed over a very firm leather.

The thing is that with proper lasting, all stretch should be taken out of the leather where it fits over the foot. Otherwise the shoes will not fit for very long. So lasting a little loose to preserve texture is not really best practices. A bed lasting machine with its limited stroke, cannot sense or evaluate the amount of stretch left in the leather as well as someone taking the drafts by hand.

Another factor is that a good many hand lasted shoes are pulled forward over the toe with the uppers not fully seated around the heel. Once the toe area is secured, the back of the shoe is pulled into place. This process is known as "hoisting." Or lasting "seats up." The great advantage is that it creates a great deal of tension in the top line. And that's generally good. But again, you almost have to be hand lasting to do "seats up."

I suspect...although I wouldn't do it that way...a chukka boot wouldn't need to be lasted seats up as the top line wouldn't be affected in any event.

--
Edited by DWFII - 1/7/14 at 9:01am
post #1397 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

^Nothing to do with it. When you put a high shine on the toes like StC does the wax essentially helps to fill in the grain making it look completely smooth. It is the extra finishing on the toe that does that. Those G&G's are relatively more matte compared to the shiny toe aesthetic of the StC. FWIW, I love the smooth shiny toe look with the grain on the rest. It's not in any way a mark of being inferior. or superior, it's just a look.

Agree, also think it looks nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Very nice. Scotch grain. And you may be correct.

However, although it's hard to see the toes clearly, it looks to me as if they are much smoother than the leather up around the top of the quarters, for instance and the leather just above the welt in the forefoot are also looks like it has flattened some.

All that said, some texturing is going to be more resistant to flattening than others.

Shrunken grain, for instance, has a lot of residual stretch built into the leather as a result of the shrinking process.

Something like Scotch grain can be embossed over a very firm leather.

The thing is that with proper lasting, all stretch should be taken out of the leather where it fits over the foot. Otherwise the shoes will not fit for very long. So lasting a little loose to preserve texture is not really best practices. A bed lasting machine with its limited stroke, cannot sense or evaluate the amount of stretch left in the leather as well as someone taking the drafts by hand.

It's not the best pic of the toes but i will give them a closer look when I get home. Thanks for the info in the last couple of post, you always learn something new when you write smile.gif
post #1398 of 2180
Thanks for the information about lasting !
post #1399 of 2180
Wanted to give a heads-up about St. Crispins going to be available this spring at Wingtip in San Francisco. It will be great to have a Bay Area source for these.
post #1400 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

All that said, some texturing is going to be more resistant to flattening than others.

Here is an embossed calf (not the stiff cowhide of classical Scotch-Grain) where the wholesaler AA Crack in Northampton claims the grain would not pull out in lasting.

http://www.aacrack.co.uk/catalogue.asp?product_id=39
post #1401 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post

Wanted to give a heads-up about St. Crispins going to be available this spring at Wingtip in San Francisco. It will be great to have a Bay Area source for these.

that sounds great
post #1402 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Here is an embossed calf (not the stiff cowhide of classical Scotch-Grain) where the wholesaler AA Crack in Northampton claims the grain would not pull out in lasting.

http://www.aacrack.co.uk/catalogue.asp?product_id=39

That's interesting. Thank you for that.

I see A.A. Crack has a new look on its website. I wish they were here or I was there. They have some lovely leathers I just can't seen to get access to them. they never respond to my emails...I suspect it's too much hassle dealing with small outfits this side of the pond.
post #1403 of 2180
I have a superstition about any tannery that includes the word, "crack" in their name. smile.gif
post #1404 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I have a superstition about any tannery that includes the word, "crack" in their name. smile.gif

lol8[1].gif

Seriously, though, A.A. Crack is not, AFAIK, a tannery. They wholesale leather, representing a number of different tanneries. I am hoping to purchase some leather from them in the coming month or two. Friends of mine on holiday in the uK.
post #1405 of 2180

new arraival, leather and tweed on screwdriver last

post #1406 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexG33 View Post

new arraival, leather and tweed on screwdriver last


Wow very nice
post #1407 of 2180
I hope PC will travel to SF for trunk show so I can bitch at him about the misfit at SF instead of LA.
post #1408 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post

With my black brown CRU 609 522B, I bought because I thought it would be versatile for many different occasions. However, I find the I don't wear it much.

During my 5 day working week, there are no occasions where black is inappropriate, and it's the colour of choice of everyone around me. And when I have meetings with the professional industry I also tend to prefer black over brown, so in the end, I just stick to black shoes due to it's easy.

On the weekend, I have plenty of brown shoes in lighter shades, suede or pebble grain finish, in full brogue or split toe derby styles. Comparing to them, the black brown in quarter brogue is too formal, and I have not wore it once on the weekend yet.

So the jack of all trades becomes the least used, and for my future purchases, I am sticking to black only for the more formal styles!

Anyone else in my situation?

I recently got model 114 in the 609 colour and found them great under grey flanel, combined with a blue sports coat. In my view they're formal enough, but can also be worn under jeans for instance; something I won't do with my black cap toes.
post #1409 of 2180
A picture is always helpful. As said, I have no problem combining the 609 color.
4yqe5yne.jpg
post #1410 of 2180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cesare1970 View Post

A picture is always helpful. As said, I have no problem combining the 609 color.
4yqe5yne.jpg


those are NICE!:nodding:

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread