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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 93

post #1381 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post

acid rain does this. time to move?

I was going to say, that looks like acid rain damage.
post #1382 of 2952
The spots don't bother me, I look at it as "wear" and I think they actually add to the shoes. If you are going to get shoes made in a leather that looks like an uncircumcised, flaccid elephant penis, which I love (the leather, not the elephant penis), worrying about spots doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. What does bother me about the shoes, and adds to your spots issue, is why would they make the toe smooth leather confused.gif It makes not sense to the overall look of the shoe, accentuates your spot issue and will make the creases stand out.

That boot needs to be made in that leather throughout and I would not worry about spots, its not a formal shoe, its a leather that begs to be worn in an un-Igent/Prince Charles, "I don't give a phuck" attitude.
post #1383 of 2952
They didn't "make" it that way, during lasting couples with a toe puff the tension just pulls out the grain. Almost any grain that is artificially added to a hide will pull out over taught areas of the shoe like the toe and heel counters.
post #1384 of 2952
Then I would have gone with a different grained leather, I don't think that looks good but to each his own
post #1385 of 2952
ed - when you last shoes, the toe smoothes out.
post #1386 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

They didn't "make" it that way, during lasting couples with a toe puff the tension just pulls out the grain. Almost any grain that is artificially added to a hide will pull out over taught areas of the shoe like the toe and heel counters.

Spot on...and the shrunken grain leathers are particulary prone to this. You might even notice the same effect, if slightly less, in the heel stiffener area.
post #1387 of 2952
Is there anywhere to easily view all of St. Crispin's various leathers?
post #1388 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

Is there anywhere to easily view all of St. Crispin's various leathers?

Probably the quickest with a good amount of variety

http://www.pinterest.com/saintcrispins/
post #1389 of 2952
Yeah, but you don't really get a sense of what you're looking at. For example, I brought up how I have two calf pairs one labels "FUN" one labeled, "CRU". Sure, both calf, but there are finished different. Could be a different part of the hide as well. Differences could be kind of hard to pick up on camera as well. Because all finishes are done by hand at St. Crispins and not the tannery it is kind of hard to get collective sense of what they have available because, by the looks of it, almost anything is available.
post #1390 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

The spots don't bother me, I look at it as "wear" and I think they actually add to the shoes. If you are going to get shoes made in a leather that looks like an uncircumcised, flaccid elephant penis, which I love (the leather, not the elephant penis), worrying about spots doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. What does bother me about the shoes, and adds to your spots issue, is why would they make the toe smooth leather confused.gif It makes not sense to the overall look of the shoe, accentuates your spot issue and will make the creases stand out.

That boot needs to be made in that leather throughout and I would not worry about spots, its not a formal shoe, its a leather that begs to be worn in an un-Igent/Prince Charles, "I don't give a phuck" attitude.

I understand your point on the smooth leather of the toe. I thought it would be better to have the the shrunken leather throughout but it probably is due to the stretching during the lasting process. I may re order the shoe in a grain or buffalo skin. It will still have texture but be more subtle
post #1391 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewConvert View Post

I understand your point on the smooth leather of the toe. I thought it would be better to have the the shrunken leather throughout but it probably is due to the stretching during the lasting process. I may re order the shoe in a grain or buffalo skin. It will still have texture but be more subtle

Almost all textured leathers will lose definition over the toe and heel when lasted. Some exotics...such as elephant, reptiles, etc....are naturally textured but even naturally textured leathers will flatten--shark is a good example of this. Almost all calf, cow, goat, kangaroo and water buffalo come off the animal smooth. Such leathers have to be embossed or manipulated in some way to have a texture. Anything that is applied to the leather after the fact, will stretch out.
post #1392 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Almost all textured leathers will lose definition over the toe and heel when lasted. Some exotics...such as elephant, reptiles, etc....are naturally textured but even naturally textured leathers will flatten--shark is a good example of this. Almost all calf, cow, goat, kangaroo and water buffalo come off the animal smooth. Such leathers have to be embossed or manipulated in some way to have a texture. Anything that is applied to the leather after the fact, will stretch out.

Have a pair og GG Arran in grain that is very even in the texture. Maybe GG doesn't strech the leather so hard?



Sorry for posting a pair of GG in the StC thread.
post #1393 of 2952
^Nothing to do with it. When you put a high shine on the toes like StC does the wax essentially helps to fill in the grain making it look completely smooth. It is the extra finishing on the toe that does that. Those G&G's are relatively more matte compared to the shiny toe aesthetic of the StC. FWIW, I love the smooth shiny toe look with the grain on the rest. It's not in any way a mark of being inferior. or superior, it's just a look.
post #1394 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank the sheep View Post

Have a pair og GG Arran in grain that is very even in the texture. Maybe GG doesn't strech the leather so hard?
.

Very nice. Scotch grain. And you may be correct.

However, although it's hard to see the toes clearly, it looks to me as if they are much smoother than the leather up around the top of the quarters, for instance, and the leather just above the welt in the forefoot area also looks like it has flattened some.

All that said, some texturing is going to be more resistant to flattening than others.
Shrunken grain, for instance, has a lot of residual stretch built into the leather as a result of the shrinking process. Something like Scotch Grain can be embossed over a very firm leather.

The thing is that with proper lasting, all stretch should be taken out of the leather where it fits over the foot. Otherwise the shoes will not fit for very long. So lasting a little loose to preserve texture is not really best practices. A bed lasting machine with its limited stroke, cannot sense or evaluate the amount of stretch left in the leather as well as someone taking the drafts by hand.

Another factor is that a good many hand lasted shoes are pulled forward over the toe with the uppers not fully seated around the heel. Once the toe area is secured, the back of the shoe is pulled into place. This process is known as "hoisting." Or lasting "seats up." The great advantage is that it creates a great deal of tension in the top line. And that's generally good. But again, you almost have to be hand lasting to do "seats up."

I suspect...although I wouldn't do it that way...a chukka boot wouldn't need to be lasted seats up as the top line wouldn't be affected in any event.

--
Edited by DWFII - 1/7/14 at 9:01am
post #1395 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

^Nothing to do with it. When you put a high shine on the toes like StC does the wax essentially helps to fill in the grain making it look completely smooth. It is the extra finishing on the toe that does that. Those G&G's are relatively more matte compared to the shiny toe aesthetic of the StC. FWIW, I love the smooth shiny toe look with the grain on the rest. It's not in any way a mark of being inferior. or superior, it's just a look.

Agree, also think it looks nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Very nice. Scotch grain. And you may be correct.

However, although it's hard to see the toes clearly, it looks to me as if they are much smoother than the leather up around the top of the quarters, for instance and the leather just above the welt in the forefoot are also looks like it has flattened some.

All that said, some texturing is going to be more resistant to flattening than others.

Shrunken grain, for instance, has a lot of residual stretch built into the leather as a result of the shrinking process.

Something like Scotch grain can be embossed over a very firm leather.

The thing is that with proper lasting, all stretch should be taken out of the leather where it fits over the foot. Otherwise the shoes will not fit for very long. So lasting a little loose to preserve texture is not really best practices. A bed lasting machine with its limited stroke, cannot sense or evaluate the amount of stretch left in the leather as well as someone taking the drafts by hand.

It's not the best pic of the toes but i will give them a closer look when I get home. Thanks for the info in the last couple of post, you always learn something new when you write smile.gif
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