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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 74

post #1096 of 2966
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Nothing I like more than using $1,800 shoes as rainy day beaters.

 

Honestly, at $1,800 a pair and with a reputation to maintain, St. Crispin's should offer to remake your shoes. They have made more than enough pairs to know that this type of thing can happen, and should have warned you that this pair could have these types of stretch marks. You aren't some litigious asshole and you know what nice stuff is. It would not be rude or gauche to ask them to correct this problem.

 

$1,800 for a pair of shoes is probably be equivalent to driving a Porsche 911 Turbo S in the car world. Imagine if the headlights started fogging up. You'd definitely bring it in to be corrected and Porsche would do so free of charge. 

 

It would be a disgrace, however, to treat $1,800 shoes like beaters.

post #1097 of 2966
I'll talk to Philip today and see what he says and post results on the forum. I think I am fine with the creases, but once it was brought up it bruised my ego. If anything I can learn something on a profound level here. I think it would be a good exercise if Philip told me to go screw and accept the creases. Very Zen.

To be honest, I would expect them to fix it if they were $6,000 bespoke shoes, but StC isn't, and creases or not, they still look awesome. I do remember others bringing up they had odd creases in their pairs as well. I am curious if it has to do with the leather they use. It is super supple and the "crust" leather seems to have very little finish on it. For example almost all other shoes that I have had even though they are not "corrected grain" seem to have a very shiny surface finishing. I don't know if it is just some sort of wax built up on it, or something else, but these are very fleshy and ready to absorb whatever I put on them. It is interesting, I'd like to get enrolled into why they use the leathers they do, because I am sure it is well thought out.
post #1098 of 2966
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

To be honest, I would expect them to fix it if they were $6,000 bespoke shoes, but StC isn't, and creases or not, they still look awesome.

 

I don't know, brah, but $1,800 for a pair of shoes represents a step below the highest echelon of the market (i.e. Lobb bespoke). Perhaps DWF can chime in, but I'd be interested to know how hard it would be to pull up the leather and put in a new toe puff. If my $300 Allen Edmonds do the crinkly toe cap thing, I can't really complain, but if my $1,800 custom St. C's went limp on me, I'd be a little miffed. Your shoes, your decision.

post #1099 of 2966
Thread Starter 
FWIW, Phillip has remedied small imperfections for me on two pairs, including paying for shipping both ways. If you're less than completely happy I'm confident he'll take care of you.

Let us know how it goes.
post #1100 of 2966
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

So you fuckers made me self-conscious about the creases in the captoes of my calf pair. Do you think this is something that can be addressed and fixed? I know StC is accommodating like this, but I cam curious what can be done to keep it from creasing the way it is. I am going to see Philip tomorrow and I can ask him, but I am just being impatient and curious about some thoughts in the meantime.

 

It all depends: if they measured your feet and then came up with this result...then they really should fix it.

 

However if you just ordered the size you deemed fit, then it's up to them to decide and they might well agree to fix the problem in the interests of retaining you as a loyal customer.

 

No harm trying....FWIW i have a number of calf shoes and the majority of them do not show major creases....in fact my SC chukkas have behaved well in this respect.

post #1101 of 2966
I talked to Philip last night. Unbelievably patient, honest and, funny guy. He explained the construction of their shoes a bit better for me, discussed leathers, and their properties and also about the toe stiffener and also fit process. We explored some different options for fitting, but in the end I decided to keep the size and fit that I have. Sure, I could alter how the creases land in certain spots, but I felt it would compromise some of the other proportions of the shoe that I find to be very harmonious. Furthermore, I felt since I like how they feel I didn't want to mess around. With this, Philip felt there was no inherent "problem" with my shoes and it is best to the the creases fall naturally rather than forcing them to do something. I had this feeling from the beginning, but I let you bastards get to me.

I highlight for me was hearing Philip talking about his passion for the calf leather they used and the process, of dying, staining, and other things. He totally enrolled me and while I was set on another cordovan pair, I opted for calf. Very excited. He laughed when I ordered another black pair. All in all great experience.
post #1102 of 2966
Black crust this time?
post #1103 of 2966
nod[1].gif
post #1104 of 2966
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I talked to Philip last night. Unbelievably patient, honest and, funny guy. He explained the construction of their shoes a bit better for me, discussed leathers, and their properties and also about the toe stiffener and also fit process. We explored some different options for fitting, but in the end I decided to keep the size and fit that I have. Sure, I could alter how the creases land in certain spots, but I felt it would compromise some of the other proportions of the shoe that I find to be very harmonious. Furthermore, I felt since I like how they feel I didn't want to mess around. With this, Philip felt there was no inherent "problem" with my shoes and it is best to the the creases fall naturally rather than forcing them to do something. I had this feeling from the beginning, but I let you bastards get to me.

I highlight for me was hearing Philip talking about his passion for the calf leather they used and the process, of dying, staining, and other things. He totally enrolled me and while I was set on another cordovan pair, I opted for calf. Very excited. He laughed when I ordered another black pair. All in all great experience.

Can you share more information about the calf leather process, and if he explained the reasoning for their choice of crust leather etc.? Personally I am fine with the creases on Stc's leather too, it doesn't bother me at all.
post #1105 of 2966
I always felt there was all together too much being made of the toe crease issue in the first place. Enjoy your shoes.
post #1106 of 2966
The way I understand it is they feel it is much more natural, not a shellacked surface. They can dye it how they want, add as many or as little colors, also do different processes like shrink it for certain looks. It also allows the leather to age and patina better over time than hard, solid finishes.
post #1107 of 2966
post #1108 of 2966
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

The way I understand it is they feel it is much more natural, not a shellacked surface. They can dye it how they want, add as many or as little colors, also do different processes like shrink it for certain looks. It also allows the leather to age and patina better over time than hard, solid finishes.

If I'm understanding that correctly, does that mean that all their leather supply comes in raw colored? (beige) and they hand dye every color offered (including antiqueing of course)
post #1109 of 2966
For their crust calf, but that isn't their only offering for calf.
post #1110 of 2966
Based on my last visit with Phillip, I was informed they have 2 kind of calf, one being Crust and the other having a shorter break in time / softer but does not age as well. Do you know if that's the only other type of calf they offer, and if you know what it is called?
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