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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread - Page 73post #1081 of 41169/30/13 at 1:40pm
Styleforum Top Pickspost #1082 of 411610/1/13 at 10:26amSo it seems nobody really has much info on the tannery StC uses for their leathers. Another question: What is the point of "crust" leather? They even use it for black shoes and on mine it looks like other than the toe and heel there is very little dye used. Is there a certain benefit of getting unfinished leather and applying everything themselves?post #1083 of 411610/1/13 at 10:40ampost #1084 of 411610/1/13 at 10:45amI am aware costing has an impact and working with finished and unfinished leather another factor with the craftsman.
also, you can create and mix your own unique set of colours exclusive to your self.Quote:Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
So it seems nobody really has much info on the tannery StC uses for their leathers. Another question: What is the point of "crust" leather? They even use it for black shoes and on mine it looks like other than the toe and heel there is very little dye used. Is there a certain benefit of getting unfinished leather and applying everything themselves?post #1085 of 411610/1/13 at 11:16ampost #1086 of 411610/1/13 at 2:13pmQuote:
9.5F G&G, 9EE JL, 8.5G SC.post #1087 of 411610/1/13 at 2:35pmQuote:Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
So it seems nobody really has much info on the tannery StC uses for their leathers. Another question: What is the point of "crust" leather? They even use it for black shoes and on mine it looks like other than the toe and heel there is very little dye used. Is there a certain benefit of getting unfinished leather and applying everything themselves?
Crust leather is not dyed through and has no tannery top finish so it can be faux antiqued. It's the leather of choice for EG, G&G and any shoemaker trying to do factory antiquing. Crust leather also has a softer hand in my experience, but it's probably not necessary true.
SC uses leather toe puff, probably shoulder scraps. The length of the toe puff is designed to not go too deep toward the vamp as that will bite into your feet. But judging from the pic it's def too short and needs to be fixed.
Cordovan has no give and won't stretch to conform to your feet. Calf has a lot better give and will soften up once worn and will feel like a glove.post #1088 of 411610/3/13 at 12:17pmQuote:
A prime reason why British cordwainers are not that keen on working the horse's ass. Oh, and it's a pain to last and the bubbly waves are a bit on the conspicuous side.post #1089 of 411610/3/13 at 12:27pmQuote:
I have to disagree with that. Cordovan stretches less than calf, but it is inaccurate to suggest it has "no give". It isn't Kevlar. My Carmina shell wholecuts definitely loosened up some and do indeed fit like a glove. Fit and comfort are far more a function of proper last and size than of material choice. But yes, calf is both thinner and "softer" overall.post #1090 of 411610/4/13 at 1:33ampost #1091 of 411610/4/13 at 2:51ampost #1092 of 411610/6/13 at 11:05pm
No, was just an observation on cordovan in general....my unlined CJ Harvard shell loafers are extremely pliable and have become almost sock-like while the carmina shell shoes still retain their relative toughness. I wouldnt go for shell in a high end shoe like SC/G&G....Im not such a fan of the wrinkles on shell...makes the shoe look decidedly casual. But thats just my view.post #1093 of 411610/7/13 at 7:51amSo you fuckers made me self-conscious about the creases in the captoes of my calf pair. Do you think this is something that can be addressed and fixed? I know StC is accommodating like this, but I cam curious what can be done to keep it from creasing the way it is. I am going to see Philip tomorrow and I can ask him, but I am just being impatient and curious about some thoughts in the meantime.post #1094 of 411610/7/13 at 11:35amYou're shoes are fine, it's just a combination of the narrow toe and the line of the cap. Unless you plan on changing your foot or lengthening the shoe by a size that's where the crease will fall for you on this particular pair.
If you can't accept it and you have no way to exchange for a different last that works better for your foot, then worst case scenario just use them as beaters for rainy days.
But really, just wear them and enjoy them, it's just a crease.
- St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread
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