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Fit/critique on Target suit: Can I fix this via tailor? (New suit 3rd page) - Page 5

post #61 of 75
Two fatal flaws on that suit:

1). Button stance is too high
2). Short front balance on jacket waist


Also, ditch that belt (too wide) and shoes (look clunky, try a different AE model like the Park Avenue or something)
post #62 of 75
hmm, well its better, but there are still some issues.

You still have a lot of wrinkling on the sleeves in the back. The button stance looks very odd, but I think thats also because you are taking the pics from such a low level.

Shoulders and sleeve length look good.

Pants are a travesty unfortunately. They are about 2 inches too long in the front.

Finally, the vent doesn't sit quite right.

Overall, its not great, but not awful. The average person would probably say the suit fits great.
post #63 of 75
Thread Starter 
thank you for the pointers,

unfortunately the shoes will have to stay, and i personally like them shog[1].gif (more of money problem though so in the long run i will save for new pair. i actually like this a lot more than the park avenue)

most of the photos I am trying to take them at waist height though maybe i am standing too far? i thought waist height was the recommended POV for self-timer.

what to do about the wrinkling in the sleeves? is this because it's too tight?

i really do not know what to do with the vent, it was suggested that it be tie down with some ribbon by the tailor.


i will fix the vent and pants asap. other than that, i will have to settle for what i have, which i am pleased in general. i promise next suit will be better happy.gif
post #64 of 75
Dude, this is an eleventy trillion percent improvement over the Target suit. If you want to know what people who are comparing your suit to an ideal, bespoke standard think, see the other comments in this thread--not that there's anything wrong with aspiring to perfection. As far as comparing this suit to what the average guy is wearing, it is well above average. The shoulders and waist fit you well for RTW, and the pants are not too baggy. The back could be a little cleaner, but, again, this is budget RTW. The only thing I would recommend (if you feel you must have this tailored further) would be to take a little off the trouser length. In the future, I might also look for coats with a lower buttoning point. Oh, and the shoes are a great first dress shoe. Many people frown on wearing derbys/bluchers with suits, but 90% of the suit-wearing population does it.
post #65 of 75
Thread Starter 
Thank you,

I will be getting the pants shortened ASAP. And you are correct, I am in a sense trying to tailor the hell out of this suit (my first) to try and imitate the nice looking ones here on MC (RTW or bespoke). I know it cannot possibly be the same or comparable, but as close to it is what I am trying to get. I perhaps am setting my goals a bit high though.

Some close up of the show after fixed up.
500

500

500

500

500

Vibram heel and new leather sole smile.gif
post #66 of 75
Shoes look great. Take that for what it's worth; I happen to like the chunkier look of AEs. I almost bought these in Walnut, but already have two other models in Walnut, which is probably one too many pairs of Walnut to have in a 5 shoes rotation.
post #67 of 75
It would look a lot better with a lower rise in the trousers and a lower button stance. The quarters are extremely open and it gives a slight the impression of a cutaway jacket.

Whatever though. It's not terrible at all.
post #68 of 75
the shoes look good. when being fitted you should be wearing dress shoes tied, and your belt. the belt should be cinched up and any excess cloth folded under the belt at the center of the back.
the belt should be set st the height you will be wearing it. i think you mentioned something about tapering the trousers, i would not. the legs now cling at your calves it will be worse if you do this.
on the coat you have sloping shoulders. the right vent opens. that is because your right hip is higher than the left all because your right shoulder is lower. the shoulder and hip come as matched set.
see the back view how the right side breaks much more.
the first suit had that baggy front. thats because you have an erect posture. your parents told you to sit and stand up straight, now you pay for that. the second suit is a little better.
if you want to check that hip stand in front of a mirror and see your belt.
dont be discouraged ready to wear suits are not made to fit people. they are made to fit the tailors dummy in the factory.
post #69 of 75
Thread Starter 
thanks ^^^
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy View Post

It would look a lot better with a lower rise in the trousers and a lower button stance. The quarters are extremely open and it gives a slight the impression of a cutaway jacket.

Whatever though. It's not terrible at all.

i guess i am still having trouble understanding the supposedly high button stance. i should perhaps get someone to photograph me instead to make sure. what does the quarters mean? you mean the vents? i have to fix them, not sure how--perhaps ironing it down or tying it. the suit itself has not been ironed yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

the shoes look good. when being fitted you should be wearing dress shoes tied, and your belt. the belt should be cinched up and any excess cloth folded under the belt at the center of the back.

this. i did not properly get fitted when i went to the tailor. it was my bad in hindsight. i also wore an undershirt, which i do not plan on wearing but now probably will have to b/c that was how i got fitted. also looking into new belt...
Quote:
the belt should be set st the height you will be wearing it. i think you mentioned something about tapering the trousers, i would not. the legs now cling at your calves it will be worse if you do this.

the latest photos is as much tapering i will get, 7.5" although again, now that i look at it, perhaps 7.7" would be better
Quote:
on the coat you have sloping shoulders. the right vent opens. that is because your right hip is higher than the left all because your right shoulder is lower. the shoulder and hip come as matched set.
see the back view how the right side breaks much more.

working on the shoulders, been doing pull ups/push ups and everything in between in keeping fit again. i see what you mean in some photos regarding the right side breaking more. to be honest those are not the best "fit pics" as i was just casually rushing through it all. next photo update will be after i get in a MTM shirt from modern tailor and wearing a tie.
Quote:
the first suit had that baggy front. thats because you have an erect posture. your parents told you to sit and stand up straight, now you pay for that. the second suit is a little better.
if you want to check that hip stand in front of a mirror and see your belt.

how do i check this again? and yeah i tend to hunch over when on the computer, never had a proper ergonomic chair frown.gif
Quote:
dont be discouraged ready to wear suits are not made to fit people. they are made to fit the tailors dummy in the factory.

really appreciate the feedback.

small update: i
will not be hemming the pants as i just tried them on again and it sits fine although someone mentioned that the rise is too high. this is perhaps due to the fact that i am wearing the pants a bit higher than where i normally wear jeans. (is there a proper/standard place of wearing trousers??) i do however want to take in the waist by .25 - .5" to help it sit better at the waist/hip area. this will prevent the extra length at the hem.
post #70 of 75
Lower button stance means that the buttons will be lower on your torso. It makes you look more propotionate if correct.

Quarters are the way the opening is in the front below the button. Open quarters means there's a lot of space between the front opening at the bottom. Closed quarters means there's very little space here.

See this thread for the big difference a small change in the button stance makes: http://www.styleforum.net/t/9880/correct-button-stance#post_107048

Unfortunately, you cannot change button stance on a jacket.
post #71 of 75
Thread Starter 
definitely, thanks. now i see that it maybe the camera angle from my most recent uploads.

i hope in my next photo update with wearing a tie it will look more proportional. button stance doesn't seem too high when the jacket is on the rack.
post #72 of 75
Looks decent. You should work out your chests more, you really don't fill out the suit. And your shoes are fine, I actually have a pair of AEs very similar to them - the byrons. But I also have 2 pairs of park aves as well.
post #73 of 75
Thread Starter 
I plan on wearing undershirt to help fill it out as well. Tried on shirt + undershirt and the jacket fits better/no wrinkle in the back etc.

I'll probably pick up some park avenue if i can find them for cheap.
post #74 of 75
The button stance is only a little high, it's at a moderate height and from the side shots looks okay. It's something that can't be changed so it's not even worth worrying about on this particular suit. A lower button stance is not universally perfect for everyone and it also changes through the decades. This sort of two-button suit where the buttons are set higher, more like the closure on a three-button coat, existed in decades past, even on the best suits.

Overall it's not perfect, but not terrible. Don't plough any more money into this suit trying to perfect it - apart from shortening the trouser hems, which are still pooling onto your shoes. Save your money and shop carefully for your next suit taking everything you've learned about what fits you into consideration. For now, wear this suit and and try to enjoy it; it looks better than a lot of the suits being worn out there. straight off the rack.
post #75 of 75

Dear all, 

 

I'm wondering what you think of the back of this jacket. The pictures may be deformed a bit but it gives a fair impression of it anyway. I'd be grateful for your comments! Thanks!

 

IMG_5476.JPGIMG_5477.JPG

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