Originally Posted by Herky210
Forgive the ignorant question, but why is "fused" important? Longer shirt life?
I take it that TM Lewin and Harvie & Hudson are not as mass market (cheaply made) as CT. Well, I ordered 3 CT shirts last week from their summer online sale. All slim fit, wrinkle-free - so I hope they at fit better than some have said here on the forum.
Interestingly since I wrote that (and failed to answer the question apparently) I have worked with CT consulting on their tailoring.
The reason fusing in collars and cuffs is pertinent is because it makes for a much stiffer cuff and collar. The way the shirt ages changes, while an un fused cuff will soften and eventually lose all shape (becoming like an old pair of jeans; soft, relaxed but not smart) a fused cuff will remain reasonably firm up to the end of its life.
There is one aspect that is never mentioned in these threads but I now believe is important; CT is still owned and run by the man who started it. Having met him and grilled him extensively on decisions relating to the tailoring lines one thing is clear; his name, and the names of his children is sewn onto every garment and he is unwilling to compromise the integrity of that.
Some people may not like the fabrics he chooses, many complain that the poplin is too light weight, but ultimately I feel that if I am to give £100 to a corporation, I'd rather give it to him than the investment corporation that now owns T M. Lewin.
Obviously that point is utterly intangible and one everyone makes according to how important they feel the issue is, but given that the price, quality and style of shirts is roughly equal between CT and TML I use that to tip the scales CTs direction.