Flapped Patch Pockets?



aj_del said:

This is what I was talking about. I like flapped patch pockets if they are on a tweed SC, not on a suit jacket

Pic courtesy of Film Noir Buff

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+1

Maybe even on a SC made with a flannel or textured fabric that is not a tweed. But on a highly tailored suit jacket with a fabric with only a little texture it looks odd to my eye. Patch pockets on a suit jacket - sure if you like, but for me personally patch AND flap is too much.

However, I completely support those who order bespoke to do what 'floats their boat' as the variety and personal self expression of bespoke is a huge part of it's appeal (and it's risk).

Another example

Of all the executions of the flapped patch pockets I have seen, I think P Johnson's is the worst. I think of flapped patch pockets as very casual and they are looking very odd on a city suit.

Also, is the width of the flaps more than the pockets ?

To me, flaps on patch pockets make the jacket look like outerwear. They also look bulky, like a compromise of the clean lines of the jacket for the sake of protecting your pocket contents. I wouldn't put them on a jacket meant to be worn indoors or in smart situations. They would look great on a norfolk jacket or something similar.

If you want novelty pockets, have you considered crescent pockets like the DOW wore? Costi from the London Lounge has a series of pics of a tweed jacket with crescent pockets and the button config that permits buttoning both buttons. Looks oustanding to me and I am seriously tempted.

I do like crescent pockets but, much like the bellow pockets, think they work best on heavy tweeds.



Eustace Tilley said:

I do like crescent pockets but, much like the bellow pockets, think they work best on heavy tweeds.

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I have seen bellows on a linen jacket -- you have to accept the resultant heavy bagging



aj_del said:

This is what I was talking about. I like flapped patch pockets if they are on a tweed SC, not on a suit jacket

Pic courtesy of Film Noir Buff

Click to expand...

Exactly the Sport coat and the Cheviot suit from BB I wore freshman year.

I quite like the idea of having flapped patch pockets on a casual summer suit, although I think it would probably look best with fabrics with a lot of surface texture (e.g. linen, slubby silk mixes, etc.) and/or patterning (e.g. window pane, etc.). I recently made a Lewis tweed jacket with bellows pockets that I like very much (although I haven't had the chance to wear because of the current season), and would consider having flapped patch pockets on "sporting" suits...

OP - any sense of what shape patch pocket you would chose? I'm not quite sure I quite like the very rounded pockets in the original post; something a bit more squarish (although of course with curved/rounded edges) would look better to my eye...

Gdot said:

But on a highly tailored suit jacket with a fabric with only a little texture it looks odd to my eye. .

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I just don't really understand this point; if the garment is bespoke how is having flapped patch pockets more or less highly tailored than another garment? It just doesn't make sense...

I can't shake the feeling that when I hear "patch pockets" I think of a trad sack jacket. And because of this I cannot imagine flaps anywhere. I'm sure it can be done, and done well, but I am having a hard time shaking my instincts on the matter.



academe said:

I quite like the idea of having flapped patch pockets on a casual summer suit, although I think it would probably look best with fabrics with a lot of surface texture (e.g. linen, slubby silk mixes, etc.) and/or patterning (e.g. window pane, etc.). I recently made a Lewis tweed jacket with bellows pockets that I like very much (although I haven't had the chance to wear because of the current season), and would consider having flapped patch pockets on "sporting" suits...



I just don't really understand this point; if the garment is bespoke how is having flapped patch pockets more or less highly tailored than another garment. just doesn't make sense...

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What I mean is that a sport jacket is usually cut a little 'looser' than a suit jacket. It is often not cut to fit the wearer's body so snugly. And often sport jackets are of a more highly textured fabric than a suit jacket. These things tend to make a jacket appear less formal. Patch pockets are also more often associated with sport jackets. (None of these things are hard and fast rules - but are common).

So, to me - the example photo is a 'mixed message' in that it is highly contoured and very fitted, and is made from a fabric that is only lightly textured (both characteristics of a suit jacket) and the patch pockets with a flap, seem to me to be more appropriate for sport jacket which is usually a looser fitting (less tailored) sort of jacket.

All of that being said, NONE of these things which are commonly combined are hard and fast rules and bespoke is all about personal expression - just that if I were going to make something similar to the example garment I would personally want a slightly looser fit and a highly textured fabric.

Here's a link to a page on the WYWRN thread where a similar configuration of jacket is shown.

(scroll down to the blue seersucker)

http://www.styleforum.net/forum/thr...-wearing-right-now-part-iii/7695#post_4679028

Not saying it's a good fit or anything - just an example of a similar configuration of pockets.



Gdot said:

What I mean is that a sport jacket is usually cut a little 'looser' than a suit jacket. It is often not cut to fit the wearer's body so snugly. And often sport jackets are of a more highly textured fabric than a suit jacket. These things tend to make a jacket appear less formal. Patch pockets are also more often associated with sport jackets. (None of these things are hard and fast rules - but are common).

So, to me - the example photo is a 'mixed message' in that it is highly contoured and very fitted, and is made from a fabric that is only lightly textured (both characteristics of a suit jacket) and the patch pockets with a flap, seem to me to be more appropriate for sport jacket which is usually a looser fitting (less tailored) sort of jacket.

All of that being said, NONE of these things which are commonly combined are hard and fast rules and bespoke is all about personal expression - just that if I were going to make something similar to the example garment I would personally want a slightly looser fit and a highly textured fabric.

Click to expand...

I understand what you're saying, but just don't agree at all. My bespoke sports jackets and suit jackets are pretty much cut on the same pattern (at least for each tailor), and are equally snug/"loose". For others that I know who bespeak clothes, the "snugness" or "looseness" varies depending on the tailor they use and on the individual commission; summer garments perhaps might be made a bit more breezy than garments made for cooler months. Perhaps I'm being pedantic, but I don't think your generalisation holds.

Flap patch pockets look stupid to me. However, if enough people do it, and it becomes part of SF Groupethinke, I might start loving it.

I think I could quite like that look on a summer jacket: quirky, in a good way. On a tweed, in the UK at least, I'd say it would only look costume-y. I.e. Smith of Goldman Sachs going to his first shoot yah, and thinking he'll fit in wearing that kind of jacket along with plus-fours and brand new £300 boots.

Don't like it on light fabric. It is like having a huge spoiler on a Prius.

Looks great on heavy jackets.