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Flapped Patch Pockets?

post #1 of 51
7/14/11 at 5:31pm
Thread Starter 
Thoughts on this style of flapped patch pockets? Thinking of getting these on a couple of summer suits:

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post #2 of 51
7/14/11 at 5:38pm
Looks really weird. Like something that would take time to get used to and then become your favorite.
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post #3 of 51
7/14/11 at 6:05pm
Looks a little odd on your example of a very shaped jacket.
In ancient times when Brooks Brothers was still Brooks Brothers,
Sport coats and tweed suits from the University and 346 Shop
usually came with Patch/Flap pockets. These were of course
3 Button Sack coats. Personally, I would go with Flap pockets
on the jacket you show.
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post #4 of 51
7/14/11 at 7:05pm
I have them on three of my Chan jackets. On two I specified them. On the third, I wanted open-top patch pockets, but Chan put the flaps on--either by mistake or because I didn't make myself clear enough. No biggie as far as I am concerned. I rather like them. It's an escape from the ordinary--helps make your bespoke garments look less like department store stuff.
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post #5 of 51
7/14/11 at 7:22pm
Don't like the ones in the OP but I do like them when done right. By right I mean on a tweed SC with an open patch breast pocket. Like the original BB sport coat
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post #6 of 51
7/14/11 at 9:23pm
I have 1 3 piece suit, and one sportcoat with flap patch pockets. I wish I had the option to be able to tuck the pockets in, but otherwise I really like them both. It's not something I would ever ask for though. I prefer just flaps.
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post #7 of 51
7/14/11 at 9:49pm
The only reason why they are not normal today is because 90% of the people who bought bespoke died. The hippie generation were not the continuance of bespoke and the younger people today have no idea what bespoke is all about (they are rtw trained). By all means get what your heart and imagination wants that your tailor can make - that is what bespoke is.
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post #8 of 51
7/14/11 at 10:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post

The only reason why they are not normal today is because 90% of the people who bought bespoke died. The hippie generation were not the continuance of bespoke and the younger people today have no idea what bespoke is all about (they are rtw trained). By all means get what your heart and imagination wants that your tailor can make - that is what bespoke is.

I am confused by your point. Brooks Brothers jackets which were mentioned in two of these posts as examples of patch/flap pockets
were RTW, and in the case of the University Shop and 346 Shop at BB, not very pricey. Until the '70s, I believe, Brooks had a true bespoke
operation. This department accounted for a very small portion of their business.
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post #9 of 51
7/15/11 at 3:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post


I am confused by your point. Brooks Brothers jackets which were mentioned in two of these posts as examples of patch/flap pockets
were RTW, and in the case of the University Shop and 346 Shop at BB, not very pricey. Until the '70s, I believe, Brooks had a true bespoke
operation. This department accounted for a very small portion of their business.

I don't really understand your question. But what I find so strange today is how timid so many people are who buy bespoke. It is like they are asking for permission like a small child. When you look at the history of clothes before rtw you are looking at the imagination of customers and tailors. In every painting every man is wearing something different than his peers. With rtw everybody is wearing the same. Rtw things come and go and then come back again. Bespoke is anytime. With sports coats probably nearly everything imaginable has been done by tailors by the 50s. If it has already been done and OK, then how is it wrong today? Where is the timidness coming from? The whole thing about bespoke is to be different, except for certain reasons, such as uniforms. Rtw is where a million or more is stamped out, but that is not bespoke. Bespoke is as individual as each human being. Today almost all the sports coats look like a copy of a business coat (suit coat), from that perspective real sports coats are no longer made. Blazers, too, have become a business coat in appearance. The lack of imagination is shameful when it comes to bespoke for it is the opportunity to do something different. To show your friends what you are thinking. Since bespoke is art - it is like paintings in houses - nobody has the same. It is strange seeing so many people going to tailors for cookie cutter designs. It wasn't that way in the 60s.
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post #10 of 51
7/15/11 at 5:06am
Thread Starter 
^ All your posts make me baldy[1].gifcrackup[1].gifbaldy[1].gif
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post #11 of 51
7/15/11 at 5:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post


I don't really understand your question. But what I find so strange today is how timid so many people are who buy bespoke. It is like they are asking for permission like a small child. When you look at the history of clothes before rtw you are looking at the imagination of customers and tailors. In every painting every man is wearing something different than his peers. With rtw everybody is wearing the same. Rtw things come and go and then come back again. Bespoke is anytime. With sports coats probably nearly everything imaginable has been done by tailors by the 50s. If it has already been done and OK, then how is it wrong today? Where is the timidness coming from? The whole thing about bespoke is to be different, except for certain reasons, such as uniforms. Rtw is where a million or more is stamped out, but that is not bespoke. Bespoke is as individual as each human being. Today almost all the sports coats look like a copy of a business coat (suit coat), from that perspective real sports coats are no longer made. Blazers, too, have become a business coat in appearance. The lack of imagination is shameful when it comes to bespoke for it is the opportunity to do something different. To show your friends what you are thinking. Since bespoke is art - it is like paintings in houses - nobody has the same. It is strange seeing so many people going to tailors for cookie cutter designs. It wasn't that way in the 60s.

I think its just an example of groupthink at worst, or at best, just a way to get more ideas out of a bunch of guys who know quite a bit about clothing. I had an old three piece tweed suit and another old two piece that I got rid of that had these "envelope" patch pockets. I don't know if I'd have chosen to get them though. One had pockets that were set apart from the coat (the patches were not simply sewn on to the coat front, but made to kind of "stick out". Not sure what thats called. Was cool. I'm having a three piece tweed made up this fall, and I think I'm just going to go for the standard patch pockets on the coat.

For the groupthink element, many here favor the Neapolitan look rather than the English Country so if this were a poll, I'd imagine "no flaps" would win out.
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post #12 of 51
7/15/11 at 5:25am
I looked at this image yesterday and didn't care for the pockets but looking again today they have grown on me -- how about 'tuck-able' flaps on one and flapped envelope pockets on the other?
Edited by wmb - 7/15/11 at 8:22am
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post #13 of 51
7/15/11 at 5:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post

Today almost all the sports coats look like a copy of a business coat (suit coat), from that perspective real sports coats are no longer made. Blazers, too, have become a business coat in appearance.

Can you find a picture of what you mean?
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post #14 of 51
7/15/11 at 6:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger View Post

One had pockets that were set apart from the coat (the patches were not simply sewn on to the coat front, but made to kind of "stick out". Not sure what thats called. Was cool.

'Bellows' pockets I think they're called. A nice feature to have on a very sporty/tweedy Norfolk-style coat. There's this example from the Bookster website which has them:

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post #15 of 51
7/15/11 at 6:47am
This is what I was talking about. I like flapped patch pockets if they are on a tweed SC, not on a suit jacket

Pic courtesy of Film Noir Buff

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