I went along to visit Burgos today with a member who is free to identify himself who is having a shirt made. The fit of his first shirt looked good, even without the adjustments they will be making, and I expect he will be very happy with the final product. I had some time to examine some of the shirts in progress and they are beautifully made. The quality is very similar to NSM, though not identical in the sense that some different techniques are used. I would say that the differences are mostly idiosyncratic and they are more or less similar though Burgos is a bit more finely made. If you are happy with NSM, you would be happy with Burgos. But you also wouldn't necessarily feel compelled to change. The best thing about their setup are the fabric books - huge page size swatches bound in leather covers that look much older than me.
The tailor that travels with them is quite interesting to talk to. He was wearing a beautifully made and fitted suit that was a good advertisement for his skills, though the cut was like nothing I had ever seen before live. It is how I imagine the continental cut of 1950 or so would look, updated with modern proportions. I liked everything about it but the shoulders, which were strongly paded, extended and level. The contrast between his suit and my classic English cut were pretty remarkable and a good testament to the fact that there still remain real regional differences in the bespoke traditions and that there is more out there besides England and Italy (and their derivatives). Something he was quite proud of was that his goods are made by Spaniards with, literally, generations of sewing tradition in their family, just as he is a third generation tailor (he does the measuring, cutting and fitting, but not the sewing). This he contrasted with the London tailors, which is the closest to disparaging that he got and agreed that Italy might be more similar to Spain in that regard (that is true, but I bet Spain benefits from being imore insular).
