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Bespoke Tuxedo and Eveningwear

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
So I'm going bespoke for my second set of eveningwear; and I'm in need of a little guidance.

What fabrics? I'm definitely going black or midnight, looking at Harrison's Firefly or Cape Kid (84/16 wool/mohair and 60/40 wool/mohair respectively)
Silk or grosgrain facings?

Shirts... I am considering bespoke for this too so what fabrics are the most sartorially correct?

Shoes...Not going for bespoke here; I've worn Church's Consul with my old set when I didn't know better. Who makes a nice patent shoe or a sleek plain-toe oxford?

Tie... Is a velvet bow tie appropriate with silk facings and a worsted suit?

Lastly, anybody commissioned a wool-mohair tuxedo? How does it wear? Any fit pictures?

Thanks!
post #2 of 24
Grosgrain. It depends if you're going for the more casual marcella turndown collar, or boiled front and starched wing-tip collar direction? Church's Alistair is a nice patent shoe. Velvet bow tie is a nice twist and I would personally wear one, but have a bow tie matching your facings anyway. I haven't commissioned a wool-mohair tuxedo, but I do have a wool-mohair suit. It's almost crease-resistant but does hold it's creases (in the legs) very well. Not as soft as a pure wool suit though. YMMV.
post #3 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info there; I'm going for a turn down collar, although I know a wing collar and boiled front is more accurate; around my part of the world people assume you're wearing a rental or borrowed your recently married relative's shirt. What about weights? The bunches I have with me are 8oz...
post #4 of 24
8oz is light—especially for a dinner suit. I'd definitely go for something more substantial—say 12-14oz. I'm not sure if the mohair makes a difference and that is why the swatches are 8oz—others who have more experience could chime in on that one.
post #5 of 24
Prince albert slippers for the win!
post #6 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac View Post
8oz is light—especially for a dinner suit. I'd definitely go for something more substantial—say 12-14oz. I'm not sure if the mohair makes a difference and that is why the swatches are 8oz—others who have more experience could chime in on that one.
I'd say this is poor advice. Dinner suits are now almost always worn in heated venues, you are expected (or should) keep your jacket on all evening - even when dancing. A lighter fabric is almost always preferable to a 12-14oz in those situations. If you really can't stand the minute or so of time between the venue and your car in winter, get an overcoat, because 12-14oz isn't going to be enough anyway. Mohair definitely makes a difference. Mohair gives a bit of a lustre, as opposed to the sheen of silk. Mohair affects the fabric handle in the sense that mohair makes a fabric a bit more springy IMO. Note that this applies to mohair, kid mohair is IMO a different creature. I disagree also with your preference for grosgrain when considering satin vs grosgrain for lapel facings - I think both are equally valid choices that can look good in different circumstances. Satin has gained a bad name because rentals are nearly always satin but IMO that is as poor a reason as any to dislike something, especially when there are good and bad satins. Satin is also IIRC thought to be more 'classic', if that means anything to the OP. I think grosgrain looks nicer on fabrics with a slightly more 'wet' (i.e. lustrous) finish because I enjoy the contrast between the more matte grosgrain lapel fabric and the slight sheen of the body fabric. Likewise I think satin looks great on fabrics with drier (more matte) finishes. Finally as a consideration real silk grosgrain is at best difficult to find (even for tailors), and costs an arm and a leg.
post #7 of 24
OP - who are you having make up your Tuxedo? I am exploring bespoke for my tux as well. Does the forum think Mina from Napoli would do a SB one button peak lapel midnight tux well, or do people recommend someone else?
post #8 of 24
I would not recommend someone else, but my next bespoke dinner suit will be a double breasted shawl collar lined with some viiiindadsch silk, probably midnight blue.
post #9 of 24
OP says it will be his second set of dinner clothes but he does not describe what he already has. I for one have different weights, SB and DB in midnight and black. I recommend he do something similar.
post #10 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post
I would not recommend someone else, but my next bespoke dinner suit will be a double breasted shawl collar lined with some viiiindadsch silk, probably midnight blue.

who is making yours?
post #11 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkDerm View Post
who is making yours?

I am still not sure, either Chiaia or my Florentine tailor.
The German one is out, he's already making me an unlined, zero padding/canvassing no-nothing white dinner jacket/pseudo-sportscoat hybrid thingy (tuck in the flaps - white dj [igonre side vents], tuck out - caipt'n coolio on tour).
Fabric is of course viiindadsch (some off-white English fresco he had lying around).

Would love to try Domenico Pirozzi, but his customer service is extremely...Napoli style.
post #12 of 24
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post #13 of 24
I guess I could, but for the white one I will get normal buttons...I actually really want to use it as a sportsocat. On the other hand...swiss army white dj... Oh an will the extra points include some Andy points?
post #14 of 24
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post #15 of 24
Do you have any photos?
I think I imagine the correct thing, but I am not entirely sure.
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