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I just saw the new fall lines in person - and - happy to report, there are many good ideas and wearable pieces. First of all, I know that I've knocked Hedi Slimane in the past, but I'm now a believer - his sweaters deserve special mention - and the construction and material of all the pieces I've seen are amazing. As you all know, the military look of last year has been either toned down or phased out altogether, although I don't think for a minute that it'll be gone from menswear long. The trend of rugged, traditional materials upgraded and worked into modern shapes continues, as does the importance on the coat - this year with a slightly exaggerated silhouette (echoes of the eighties?) Lots of great , rich, browns. Lots of references to workwear.