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Why no love for the three piece suit? - Page 17

post #241 of 329






post #242 of 329

To back up Coburn's point, I recall Manton once saying that the vest helps more portly men, as President Taft would have seemed much heavier without one.

 

Here's an illustration on how a vest should fit from a book by Domenico Caraceni, the founder of the Caraceni tailoring family (the book is Orientamenti nuovi nella tecnica e nell'arte del sarto).  The illustration is for a trim man, but what's interesting is that the vest is darted and the waist is suppressed.  The waistline of the vest hits at the same point as the waistline of the trousers.  The arm-holes are cut high.  By contrast, most RTW suit vests hang straight, have no tailored waistline, and have low arm-holes.  

 

post #243 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

2.  Many men like to wear low waisted pants that sit on the hips, but vests need to be paired with high waisted pants.

 

Agreed on the need for high rise on the trousers if wearing a waistcoat, but it isn't so much "many men like" as "the only things available to buy are low waisted trousers".

 

That factor is what originally bought me to SF - I simply don't like or look good in low rise trousers. Finding pairs with a decent rise is a trial.

post #244 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY View Post

I absolutely agree! smile.gif

BTW, correct me if I am wrong, but Prince Charles buys most of his suits (the DB and morning suits, anyway) from G&H, right? That suit that Prince Charles is wearing looks like it is from A&S or one of the Savile Row tailors (such as Timothy Everest, Anthony J. Hewitt, Stephen Hitchcock and Steed, to name a few-okay, several) that have the same house style as (or a similar house style to) A&S.
Prince Charles is a well known client of A&S, and has been for many years aside of a rumor that he tried T&A MTM suits at some point recently. The Warrant G&H hold may refer to military uniforms and/or to his staff suits

What is interesting for a high vest like that is not that it has lapels, is that those lapels are shawl, I think more common on dinner vests
post #245 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post
 

Here's a recent picture of Prince Charles wearing a three piece suit, instead of his normal double-breasted:
 

That looks so classic and fresh! I just ordered a med grey 3 piece for my wedding. Can't wait! 

post #246 of 329
The problem with 3 piece suits isn't being three pieces, it's that very few companies or tailors cut a good looking vest. Most of the ones you see just sort of hang there with maybe a little help from the cinch in the back.

To me a thee-piece is ideal in cold weather using a fabric with some weight and with tailored details. I like a jacket with flap pockets, full lapels, pants with at least one pleat and full cuffs. Most of all the vest should be shaped, have 4 pockets, lapels, 5 or 6 buttons. Unless you are wearing a morning suit skip contrasting vests.
post #247 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by oxygencube View Post

That looks so classic and fresh! I just ordered a med grey 3 piece for my wedding. Can't wait! 
This may be actually not a three pieces but the jacket and vest he wears with his kilts

post #248 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

The problem with 3 piece suits isn't being three pieces, it's that very few companies or tailors cut a good looking vest. Most of the ones you see just sort of hang there with maybe a little help from the cinch in the back.

IMO it's not the vest that's the problem but that the coat and pants have to be cut with the vest in mind. That's why Neapolitan 3 pieces don't look quite right compared to the Savile Row counterparts.
post #249 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

IMO it's not the vest that's the problem but that the coat and pants have to be cut with the vest in mind. That's why Neapolitan 3 pieces don't look quite right compared to the Savile Row counterparts.

They are kind of fond of belt loops and lower rise trousers which doesn't help.
post #250 of 329
Agreed. Also, to my eye, a stronger shoulder is more accommodating to the vest.
post #251 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

They are kind of fond of belt loops and lower rise trousers which doesn't help.
Indeed, I think the issue is mainly to do with the trousers. I am having my evening vest done now, after have had the trousers done first. However this seems to be another exaggerated generalisation on this forum created by a comment of a valued member few years ago. There were pictures of recent Neapolitan three pieces tht were quite good, but the SF perception remain. There is a quite famous waistcoat maker in Naples that most tailor outsource to, and produce indeed pretty good waistcoats, so the issue is not with the waistcoat.
post #252 of 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

The problem with 3 piece suits isn't being three pieces, it's that very few companies or tailors cut a good looking vest. Most of the ones you see just sort of hang there with maybe a little help from the cinch in the back.

To me a thee-piece is ideal in cold weather using a fabric with some weight and with tailored details. I like a jacket with flap pockets, full lapels, pants with at least one pleat and full cuffs. Most of all the vest should be shaped, have 4 pockets, lapels, 5 or 6 buttons. Unless you are wearing a morning suit skip contrasting vests.

 

Never!

post #253 of 329
You chaps may find this interesting. The grey vest was made by an English tailor and the blue by an Italian they are both very good tailors but look at the finesse of the English vest in comparison. Obviously this is just two tailors and two vests but the grey does look very English to me and the navy does looks very Italian. I was trying these two bench tailors out and they both got the job, but I think the English guy is better with vests. I allocate the Italian tailor for a more continental vibe if thats what the client wants. Both of these were made for me. There is no pinning on the grey but there is on the blue.



post #254 of 329
Very nice shape of the grey vest.
post #255 of 329
Kirk Herbstreit was rocking one on ESPN this morning. A nice solid grey.
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